Got a 2 stroke ht 66cc. Ive noticed that on my stock pulley the chain has "eaten" into it to make its own grooves. As I adjust the pulley it will make the chain run erratically untill it seats itself onto its new groove. Has anyone made a billet pulley in place of the factory nylon one. Not interested in anything plastic unless you have tried both and can show the difference and improvement in one or the other.
Is a billet pulley available?
- Thread starter skiball83
- Start date
wheelbender6
Well-Known Member
I have not seen one. The nylon pulley wheel is quieter than a billet one, but not very attractive. An aluminum pulley might be a good compromise.
BarelyAWake
New Member
I gotta say that while a "billet" aluminum or any metal roller may last longer - it'd be a vibration nightmare as the chain links rattle over it... but I gotta agree w/Nougat & say it sounds like you've got the chain way too tight. I've the stock one on my first build and it's got thousands of miles on it w/only slight wear.
scotto-
Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
I'm still real happy with this steel toothed tension roller.....it doesn't seem to wear at all and it was worn out when I started using it. It's a worn out 11t secondary, freewheel counter sprocket, with the ratcheting pawls removed.....works great and keeps the chain on track so too speak.
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A metal tensioner wheel? Wow, talk about noise and vibration...Barley Awake is right. It won't matter how well the roller, wheel, pulley, whatever you want to call it spins, there's still going to be a lot of noise produced.
Use the seach feature, type in 'tensioner wheel' and see what others have done. To date, a good quality urethane skate board, roller blade wheel is the best option. You'll need to groove it to fit the chain so stay away from the coated, two layer type, they come apart, but a one piece wheel works great. Quiet and they last "for-e-ver"...(scene from 'The Sand Lot')
Tom
Use the seach feature, type in 'tensioner wheel' and see what others have done. To date, a good quality urethane skate board, roller blade wheel is the best option. You'll need to groove it to fit the chain so stay away from the coated, two layer type, they come apart, but a one piece wheel works great. Quiet and they last "for-e-ver"...(scene from 'The Sand Lot')
Tom
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
To date the Skate board wheel is the smoothest thing I ever used. Cannot wear them out either. I like them being slightly larger in circumference than the stock wheels as the chain bends less going over the Skate wheel their smooth as silk in this manner!! I have not tried a sprocket yet .
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scotto-
Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Not too get into debate here Tom, but this set-up is as smooth and quiet as a baby's bum. Double bearings with very little tension as you can see by the angle of the chain....a skateboard wheel or urethane roller are really no better, but equal in the outcome ie. noise and vibration. I've tried them all.
No argument from me, Scotto. I think what Geoff and I are saying is that a wheel, pully, will be noisy. You're using a sprocket. That's different...lots different than having chain links hit and rattle over a solid piece of metal which might or might not rotate freely with the friction of the chain riding across it.
By the way...I like your design. Industrial applications typically use a sprocket on chain tensioner/guides. Absolutely nothing wrong with the concept.
Tom
scotto-
Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Agreed...a sprocket is way different than any metal roller. A metal roller would rattle your brains loose
No doubt that a sprocket must be aligned correctly to work properly but exact chain/sprocket alignment is essential for proper operation no matter the tensioner style. Any lateral misalignment is an invitation for trouble. This is true if using a tensioner or not.
Tom
trackfodder
Member
I think the solution is quite simple if we are doing business with a China Girl type. You can't make proper tension with the drive chain do to the peddle chain, right? Simply put an offset link in your peddle chain and remove whatever is necessary in your power chain and heave the tensioner. I haven't done it yet because I am lazy and my idler hasn't crapped out yet. I did buy the half link, but could care less about riding it since I am completing restoration of a 56 Matchlless G-80S 500cc single and have an 1100 to ride if I need to go somewhere and it is d---ed cold anyhow., Thank God for battery tenders.
Your idea has merit but unfortunately there are frames that will not allow for running without a tensioner. Narrow chain stays on some frames and/or fat tires require the tensioner to keep the chain from hitting. If you have the style of frame that allows you to go without a tensioner/chain guide, then by all means, go for it. Nevertheless there are those who do not have that choice. For them, they need an alternative to the poorly designed mount of the kit supplied tensioner. That's who these discussions are aimed at.I think the solution is quite simple if we are doing business with a China Girl type. You can't make proper tension with the drive chain do to the peddle chain, right? Simply put an offset link in your peddle chain and remove whatever is necessary in your power chain and heave the tensioner. I haven't done it yet because I am lazy and my idler hasn't crapped out yet. I did buy the half link, but could care less about riding it since I am completing restoration of a 56 Matchlless G-80S 500cc single and have an 1100 to ride if I need to go somewhere and it is d---ed cold anyhow., Thank God for battery tenders.
Tom
epicboy
New Member
my point is this - unless your some rich kid that can afford all the nice precision parts - then precision won't really be an issue. As for me and I'm sure a few others, you gotta work with what you got! The china kit is a work in progress to say the least. Don't get me wrong - if it wasn't for the china girl i probably wouldnt be here...CHeers guys