Install problems
- Thread starter Mopedamauter79
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Anyone else going to do their engine in?Send it to me I will destroy it throw it out of the plane at 10'000 ft wonder what that would sound like on the way down and the impact! I wonder if it would drill a hole in this hard Texas dirt like the bowling balls did?!
Norman
Norman
naw I prefer bowlingballs and china engines But a roll of tp is fun to chase to the ground and see how many times I can cut it on the way down.
Norman
But a roll of tp is fun to chase to the ground and see how many times I can cut it on the way down.Norman
Its easy to make a right hand drill bit cut left sharpen it to go left. cheap drill bits are realy a joke , gotta have good grade steal.
doesnt look a good hobby to be in for you .... maybe take up glass making ,,, or dynimite or such things that may be easer....lol
I dont think they ment Go out and buy a new drill A new (made for steel on the box not wood) drill bit would be my guess
Buty if you do continue to use that fake weld I think Duct tape would hold better and longer.........I mean that!
Buty if you do continue to use that fake weld I think Duct tape would hold better and longer.........I mean that!
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Well I had a chain length Issues and we finally got around to fixing that. My buddy took a dremel to the head of the pin and cut it off and then punched out the pin and I now have the perfect chain length..Will this fake weld stuff work ? I dunno. I do know it held up the engine when the bike was on it's back for a few days..I do have a drill bit that is for steel and can cut into steel very well. This is my back up in case the cold weld doesnt hold up.
Well I'm back. I have a new motor and new bike and I've properly maintained it and I've only very minor problems so far. The first was the chain had to much slack. Fixed that. 2nd was bolts and nuts coming off due to vibration. Retightened and made sure it was tighter then the last time. Problem number 2 fixed!. Problem number 3 is the bolt on my chain idler was striped. I put a nut on it but the nut was just slightly to small and now I have to cut the nut off and put a nut I know for sure will fit on the M8 bolt.
My buddy and I had a thought and we wondered if we got the nuts and bolts on the engine tack welded would this prevent them from coming undone over time ?
My buddy and I had a thought and we wondered if we got the nuts and bolts on the engine tack welded would this prevent them from coming undone over time ?
Here is my new pimping ride!
And yes it cold riding it in the winter but they do run well in the winter.
And yes it cold riding it in the winter but they do run well in the winter.
once you have the mounts tight back it off a bit and use lock tight on the threads then tighten it back up that should keep them from loosening again if you coat the whole thread it may never come off again. Also if you weld the nuts what happens if you do get a failure that requires removing of the motor such as a piston failure.....
Just my two thoughts
Just my two thoughts
Can always cut the nuts off if need be. I plan to get lock tight and shorten the the bolt it self so I can socket the nuts on vs wrenching them on. I do check the overall bike ever couple ride to make sure everything looks normal and the engine is still sitting tight.
Buy a roller blade skate at a thrift store for 10 bucks, strip a wheel and put a 5/16' bolt through it and bolt it to your bracket. Make sure to put the wheel into a drill, spin it, and using a 1/2 inch wood chisel lathe a shallow grove 1/2 inch wide for your chain to ride in. and then.. Enjoy the ride...
If you bought your engine from Chris Hill you should have received a good instruction book with it. In the installation guide Chris explains how to tighten the bolts and warns against overtightening them. Loctite will be your friend for life and will assure those nuts stay put until you need to remove them. DO NOT weld the nuts in place. The heat will effect the already questionable steel of the studs and you might find them seized in the aluminum engine due to the heat.
Following Chris Hills advice, tighten the nuts just enough to flatten the lock washers and then just a VERY SMALL tug past that point. Do not retighten those parts every few days. Inspect them if you want and if a lock washer appears to be opening, then and only then apply a wrench to the nuts. Retorquing these studs and nuts is one of the biggest mistakes I hear people on this forum make. Tighten them once, check after the engine has reached operating temperatue a couple of times then leave them alone. Yes, the Chinese metal isn't the best but even replacing it with grade 8 material won't help if you strip the threads out of the aluminum engine case. Good luck with your bike. Let us know how you're doing and if you ever feel like doing to the CH-80 what you did to the ebay motor, give me a heads up first. I'll take it off your hands and save you the emotional stress.
Tom
Following Chris Hills advice, tighten the nuts just enough to flatten the lock washers and then just a VERY SMALL tug past that point. Do not retighten those parts every few days. Inspect them if you want and if a lock washer appears to be opening, then and only then apply a wrench to the nuts. Retorquing these studs and nuts is one of the biggest mistakes I hear people on this forum make. Tighten them once, check after the engine has reached operating temperatue a couple of times then leave them alone. Yes, the Chinese metal isn't the best but even replacing it with grade 8 material won't help if you strip the threads out of the aluminum engine case. Good luck with your bike. Let us know how you're doing and if you ever feel like doing to the CH-80 what you did to the ebay motor, give me a heads up first. I'll take it off your hands and save you the emotional stress.
Tom
Tack weld your nuts? That's crazy talk.
Use a little loctite or double nut anything you have doubts about.
I use the skate wheel, but I use a regular skateboard wheel.
Use a little loctite or double nut anything you have doubts about.
I use the skate wheel, but I use a regular skateboard wheel.
I guess I should of been more specific with the bolt. It's not the bolt on the wheel but on the bracket the wheel sits on. It's a bottom bolt that's needed to make sure the entire chain idler stays on the bike and does not send the chain into the spokes of the wheel.
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