Thanks, but I scoured every page on your web site for hours and just don't recall, but best guess would be in the .pdf developers papers or Install papers.
In short if you don't see it as a link on your web site, it was in a .pdf file.
Thanks, I'll dig around for it
So Vinci, lets talk ;-}
We can do it here so others can share, or you can certainly contact me e-mail.
For a discussion like this, let's have it here so others can learn, if that's OK with you
If you read my first post you get jest.
If you can make a counter-clockwise version, be it for a second drive or in a Jackshaft, you may have a winner.
I wish we could justify it, but we can't. There's just not enough volume. WRT to the jackshaft, perhaps there is something out there off the shelf or very close to it that will work?
I am a pretty technical guy, I know all about manually adjusting the hard drive head seek mechs on 12" 1MB old main frame computers with a scope for minute movement.
Yikes! I bet you were good with punch card mechanisms too! What's the over/under on how many readers of this thread are even close to old enough to know what we are talking about? ;-D
How you are applying it to your hub for a programmable gear ratio to match the bike just blows me away!
As mentioned I poured through all of your tech manuals and understand how it works, very clever actually, Kudos to you ;-}
I have a myriad of questions but I'll start with just the basics.
On a typical 3-speed manual hub the slightest variation in the shifter mech on the axel makes a huge difference, as does the cable, how do you compensate for that when it so much more critical with what, like 64 unsealable position movements in an inch?
If I get your question correctly, the answer is that the 3 speed is a discrete, opportunistic shifting device. The NV is neither opportunistic (command a shift, and it will shift right now, the 3 speed wants to wait until it is unloaded) nor discrete (if the cables are stretched, the system will just take of the slack and shift anyway, though the exact points you shift to may not be repeatable, they won't be off by much either.)
Is 64 the right number for a max or would say 21 speed to make it easier to program make a big difference too?
The more speeds the merrier. The fewer you use, the greater the perception will be that the NV is shifting. When you use the max number of points, the shifts become imperceptible and the whole system feels very fluid. OTOH, doesn't hurt to start simple and learn.
As for programing the hub (I love saying that) I studied the tools so what is the best way for Joe Blow motorized bike builder like me to use it to actually test? strap a laptop to the handlebars and go for a ride?
No need to be so sophisticated. More importantly, look at the road, not your instrumentation! There is probably a path to something like an iPhone app to take data on the bike if you really want to go that far. Let me give you an extreme example that you can scale back from: If you were an automaker, you would plot brake specific fuel consumption of the engine in "island" form with x and y axes being engine speed and torque, respectively. Then, you would overlay lines of constant power. For every power level commanded by the rider, there will be a corresponding finite set of torque/speed points that provides the lowest possible fuel consumption OR you can choose to pick a spot that gives the power commanded while operating the engine at the lowest possible torque - this gives you lots of reserve for acceleration. You create your shift maps from this sort of logic.
Complicated, right? I'll guess that there is not a publicly available BSFC map for most small engines, though it might be worth your time to dig around on government websites like the EPA's to see if anyone did such a map in the process of evaluating weedwhacker pollution or something like that.
OK, now that you understand the hard way to do it, what can you do as just one guy with a motorized bike and some spare time? Well, you can try collecting straightline performance data for various shiftmaps that you're trying out for one. I don't know if an iPhone app intended for cars like Dynolicious is sensitive enough to give you 0-30 or 5-20 acceleration data on a motorized bike, but it might be. I have no connection to or experience with those programs, but you want one that does NOT require connection to the car's OBD II port to work. If they work for this, you're golden, if not, you're out $9.99 or whatever they charge these days.
Structure your experiments carefully and consistently, and remember that what feels best to the seat of the pants does not always produce the best performance numbers!
I seen you are working on a "handle bar" control panel too, I mentioned my idea's about that too.
Any of them sound doable?
I'll have to look back in the thread. Regardless, it sounds like you have more than adequate computer skilz to brew up your own system!
I'll leave it at that for now.
It's late and I'm hungry and that is plenty to chew on for one day.
Thanks again Vincie, nothing pleases me more than a designer wanting to directly participate with those that have a genuine interest in possible improvement/mod ideas.
You're welcome, but I don't know that I would characterize myself as a designer! More like a very knowledgeable enthusiast who knows the company well!
I take that back...
Nothing BUSINESS related does ;-}
Well not so much for the shifter but stronger guts
