I got a new Whizzer and a bunch of questions

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
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Mesa Arizona
I went across Phoenix to about the only place I could find a Whizzer and bought one today. So I got it home and it would not keep running or speed up. So I called and got some starting points for adjusting idle and air screws. I still am not getting it to run smoothly where it will pick up power and go. The book has no info about making it work. I guess this is a starting point for this.
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
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Mesa Arizona
It is a 2008 and I will make adjustments but not for a few hours. Looks like I need to pull the carb off barely to get the needle out. It is a yellow, 26" wheel and stock as far as I know. Cost $1495.00 plus tax Manual copyright is 2006 and tells nothing much, warns about lots.
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
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Mesa Arizona
The needle is in the middle notch and was originally set there. I did have to pull the carb off to get it to clear the frame. Paper says it is a series or model WCNE. Looking on website it must be NE5 model for 2008. Rt side of Carb has KIE HAN cast into it with raised letters. Carburetor has a restrictor plate I was told to leave in for the first 100 miles.
 
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MotorbikeMike

Dealer
Dec 29, 2007
477
1
18
Sacramento
Hi Lenny, you will always want the restrictor in place, just not always with the same size hole in it. It is a good heat insulator for the carb.

IF your bike has old gas, you can have a very bad time, if the gas is suspect, drain it, put it in a car, and fresh gas in the bike.

I've seen new, good-working bikes perform poorly with old gas.

We can go into valve clearances, and other things, but for now I would try fresh gas, and the carb adjustments and see if it will run.

Mike
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
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Mesa Arizona
Well I got 10 miles on the odometer and there were less than 2 when I got it so I am riding it but I have to do figure 8ś to keep power up. In a straight line it fades to the point of stalling out? When I turn right or left power picks up and I can cruise at 20 easy, just not in a straight line. I think the gas was a little bad but I got new 89 proof. This must be a gimmick to keep my speed down and not pegged WOT.

I do think I will enjoy this ride as it is a better size for my 240 lbs maybe, but I really enjoy my mountain bikes with performance stuff. This is a dog as to handling geometry but should ride dependably when I figure out how to make it go in a straight line. After traffic dies down I may ride out to your house tomorrow John.
 
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MotorbikeMike

Dealer
Dec 29, 2007
477
1
18
Sacramento
Hi Lenny I wonder if your float level is right, or if, like my borther's bike, you have some paint chips clogging the in tank fuel screen (strainer)?

I'm amazed you got that bike so cheap, the Dealer ate the shipping charges and did not charge you the local tax?

Mike
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
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Mesa Arizona
I took the float bowl apart and looked at it, and wouldn't you know it is not the one at Whizzer's site with a parts blow up view. I did not see a screen and did not want to break so put it back together. The system is two floats (about silver dollar diameter by 1/4-3/8 inch thick) mounted parallel but hinged between. The two floats are on the pivot of the hinge and float edgewise in the trough shaped bowl. I still get a sputtering straight line and power on in turns where I lean. If I weave like a drunk on a bike I can help the power but not enough to feel like I will get to work 14 miles away. It pops and back fires more than normal I think, but I don't know what normal is. Mike, I did pay taxes on top of the 1495 so it was over 1600 dollars.
 

datz510

Member
May 9, 2008
290
0
16
Mesa, AZ
I'm wondering if the fuel pickup in the tank has a tube on it inside the tank. Mabye the tube is out of position and not sitting on the bottom of the tank?

Lenny, if you can get it over to my place today before 11am or so, we can take a look at it.
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
1
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Mesa Arizona
I opened up the trough shaped bowl and found no screen. The carb is not the one on Whizzer's site
Whizzer Motorbike Carb
The floats are side to side shaped like fat silver dollars and hinged so they float sideways in the bowl. I saw nothing I knew to adjust or change so I put it back together and rode. Same story where if I sway and lean like a drunk I gain power but when I ride straight line like I tend to do it sputters, pops and backfires or just wants to die.
 
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MotorbikeMike

Dealer
Dec 29, 2007
477
1
18
Sacramento
HI Lenny, well your dealer ate the shipping, last one I had here cost 156.00 just to land it at my place!

I still wonder about fuel chips in the tank, and the screen there clogging? the float setting on the Kien Hin copy is usually 22mm from deck to float.

My brothers bike had the paint chip deal and so did a couple of the 2-strokes I built.

Let us know?

Mike
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
1
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Mesa Arizona
That could be as we found paint chips in the filter over at datz510's shop. I will take it back across Phoenix asap to get them to check it out and get running reliably. I was the classic eager buyer with too little time even to test ride. I was sure that they would have it going but assumed wrong. On the stand it seems to work but not riding!
 

datz510

Member
May 9, 2008
290
0
16
Mesa, AZ
Yep, its gotta be paint chips in the fuel system. We took the carb completely apart and did find that the main jet threads were sheared off, like they tightened it too much at the factory. There's still barely enough thread to hold it in, but with the jet in two peices, that might be part of the problem.

We did find a lot of paint chips. We pulled the filter and I blew most of them out of there with carb cleaner, but there's probably a bunch in the tank or bunched up in the fuel valve.

I do REALLY like that bike, Lenny. I'm gonna have to get myself one of those eventually.
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
1
0
Mesa Arizona
My wife may sell mine but I wanna make it go. I am so tired from swerving back and forth for 20 + miles today. Cars did not like me doing that, but I only worried as a police man passed me. Fortunately we have wide bicycle lanes most of the way in Mesa.
 
Hi lennyharp,

Whoa! Don't sell the bike. Just have the dealer replace the carburetor. Some of the carburetors were less than stellar, but Whizzer usually replaces them without much fanfare. The carburetor listed on their website is out of date and in fact is a WC-1 carburetor used on the 1999 classic model. I don't think Whizzer has ever bothered to release any new service manuals since the first one. If you have any problems replacing your carburetor or need any parts for it I have a very large supply of parts, including the main jets, floats, float bowls, needle jets, slides, gaskets, etc. for all versions of the Whizzer carburetors [Vintage Tillotson, Vintage Carter, WC-1, 22 MM, 26 MM, and the rare WC-1 replacement].
Although you should never remove the restrictor plate, you might want to re-locate it. The restrictor plate works best if located between the cylinder and the aluminum manifold, and helps keep the carburetor cooler. I have heard rumors that if the 9.5 MM bevel hole in the restrictor were to be open by say a "Gremlin" [code word for Dremel grinder] to match the hole in the cylinder intake port, the bike would start to run as you expected it to.
I know a "Gremlin" [me & my Dremel] modified all my restrictor plates on all my bikes, except for the Ambassador which was assembled with a larger matched plate from the factory.
It is important that you consider all the comments from MotorbikeMike about the float height and removing paint chips from the fuel system, because that is the most common problem, and gas cap problems rank next. I would suggest you take a close look at the tank where the cap seals and remove any loose paint to avoid future problems. If you remove the cap on a hot day or after the motor is running and you hear a "whoosing" sound, it means the tank is under a vacuum. Many will tell you to drill a small hole in the blue assembly under the cap. I won't waste your time by telling you to do that, instead I will suggest you bend the 3 little tabs that hold it in place, and remove it. Either way you alter it's purpose and make it non-operational, and it is much easier to bend the tabs and place the little trouble maker on the shelf. Don't discount the possibility of a problem with the gas cap, because at Portland, IN several years ago my 1999 went 3 MPH faster with the cap loosened. I tried another new cap and had the exact same results, so the stock cap will effect the fuel flow, and a defective cap can almost stop the flow after a few minutes of travel time.

Hope this information is helpful, and once you get the bike running correctly, I doubt you will want to sell it.

Have fun,
Quenton
 

lennyharp

New Member
Jul 19, 2008
429
1
0
Mesa Arizona
Quenton,

Thanks for the info as I definately do not want to sell my bike. I hope to depend on it as a reliable source of transportation. I work 12 hour days and then am off a few so tomorrow I can take the bike to the seller and get things working right. I will wean myself from the seller rather quick because I want to learn to fix it myself. I do need it to work right to start off with and expect I can get it going right with a visit. I will probably empty the fuel and make sure paint chips and sediment are not a factor, but after they get it running right.