I am bad at Titles (OCC first build)

[GoreWound]

I'm lucky it was only a wee clamp.

I finished up the top four holes and did a test fit. still pretty rough, My plan is to get everything in place on the bike, clamp it down and drill the bottom holes in place. But I need a center punch for this bit. I am thinking if i eyeball the alignment as best I can then drill the four holes through the brackets and the bike at once I can get the bolt through by drilling a slightly wider hole than necessary to make up for any misalignment.
Once I have it secure I am going to take it apart again and round the corners of the brackets.
I want this tank on there securely, I might not be using it forever and I already have my eye on another seat, but there is exactly enough space on the top tube for this tank.

 

[GoreWound]

I had an issue with the rear pair of brackets, I had assumed that there would be clearance inside there but it turns out there was not.
But after double checking the fit, it appears that the front pair of brackets has the tank on securely.
so I've hooked up the fuel line, looks like I'm buying some gas soon!

 

[fatdaddy]

Hey GW, I see how yer doin it, I just wanted to tell ya that I ran the brackets all the way up to the bottom of the tank then cut the tank studs to allow for the bolts through the frame. This way the brackets dont show nearly as bad cause they are tucked under the tank. BUT, IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY. "If it works dont fix it" is the general rule.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

thanks for the tip, as of now nothing's permanent on the bike.

took it for a test drive, 'twas GLORIOUS!

had to fiddle with the throttle cable to get it idling.
the choke is useless for starting it, but does like to bounce on and off as I ride.
then she died on me, had to peddle home. I think the clutch is slipping.
gonna work that out tomorrow, too tired now.

 

[fatdaddy]

Yeah GW, Those chokes are famous for bouncing on at the most inopertune time. But since I live in California there is rarely need for a choke so I either tie it down or remove it completely.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

I just woke up, but later today I'm gonna have a look at the bike.
I am almost definitely going to remove the choke from the carb, don't need it for starting it seems so it's gone.

I think my clutch started slipping, that's what it sounds like to me at least. after it stopped running I tried dropping the clutch a couple of times but got nothing, so either the clutch let go or I lost all compression, didn't see any blowout so I'm guessing it's the clutch.
once I've got this coffee down ma neck I'm probably gonna take a closer look.

 

[GoreWound]

okay the first thing I did was remove the choke, because Eff Da Rules!
I also noticed that one of the bolts holding the air filter on was gone, so I replaced with with a bolt twice as long!

took the clutch apart a little and have found the following: when I turn the three pegs by hand, the drive sprocket does not turn.
going to watch a youtube video on clutch take-down before I proceed, but I am pretty sure that I just need to tighten the bolt in the middle.

 

[GoreWound]

I thought it was the nut holding the drive sprocket on that was loose, I tightened it until it turned with the inner part of the clutch assembly (part with the pegs) when I turned the pedals by hand it all seemed to be working, got it back together and tried to start it and got the same lack of catch.
not sure what's wrong with it now to be honest.

gonna warm up a bit for now, looks like I may need to take apart the whole clutch

 

[GoreWound]

okay I took the chain off and started disassembling the clutch, I took the nut and lock-washer off the drive sprocket and it freewheeled off from the weight of the chain.
I unfurled the chain from the sprocket and couldn't find the key, it wasn't on the shaft either. searched the floor all around with a flashlight too.
I think there was no key in there, grease in the keyway seems to be evidence of this.

edit: sent a message to the vendor asking for a key, still waiting on their reply.

 

[GoreWound]

well, got tired of waiting for the vendor to get back to me and fabricated my own key
hard to tell but shes running in the last picture, the oil is easy to see.

got a proper test drive in before the light faded, getting a lot of four stroking so I think I am going to buy a better spark plug soon. lots of vibration at the top end because of course there is.
and oh my god this thing is LOUD.
gonna have to deal with the volume somehow, and soon.

but...
Doesn't Matter: Has Motor-Bicycle

 

[fatdaddy]

Loose motor mounts will also let ya get a lot of vibration. Rubber mounting will also vibrate. A solid metal to metal mount is the best way to go, Make sure they are tight. Grab the top of the engine and the top frame tube, TRY VERY HARD to push in opposite directions. If the engine moves at all, its not tight enough. If you can move it by hand, imagine what engine torque can do.
fatdaddy.

LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES!!!

 

[GoreWound]

Loose motor mounts will also let ya get a lot of vibration. Rubber mounting will also vibrate. A solid metal to metal mount is the best way to go, Make sure they are tight. Grab the top of the engine and the top frame tube, TRY VERY HARD to push in opposite directions. If the engine moves at all, its not tight enough. If you can move it by hand, imagine what engine torque can do.
fatdaddy.

LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES!!!

you make some very good points here. chances are a lot of the fasteners on this bike could be tighter. The only downside to loudness though is that it bothers the neighbors, and could get the cops called. I plan to make up for the safety deficit by building an overly bright set of lights for it.
before my next ride I was going to go over all the bolts everywhere again.
I desperately need a pair of those rear dropout tightener things (not knowing what they are called isn't helping)

 

[fatdaddy]

AXLE ADJUSTERS. If yer axle is tight ya really dont need em. And they wont fit every bike, only those with straight front to back slots.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

got a wonderful hour of riding in today. vibration seems less than yesterday (but I might just be getting used to it)
bought a pair of those adjuster things, spattered my rear wheel with oil, and drove past a radar gun billboard to clock the bike. It almost does 40 KM/H! (clocked at 37-38 was downhill though, but also not at full throttle [that's between 23 and 24 miles per hour])

towards the end of my ride I started to get some power loss, probably just need to re-re-tighten something. probably going to take apart the carb to fiddle with it some more.

in all likelihood I will be posting some more later today, but for now a rest.

 

[fatdaddy]

Yeah bro, Those China girls are dirty little @#$%. As for the power loss, First thing I would do is unscrew the whole jet tube and look through it. If you ran for even a second without a filter then chances are ya got a little piece of crap blocking yer jet. Blow it out good and screw it back in. 9 times out of ten it helps. Also check yer plug for fouling. Too much oil can collect on the spark plug, get baked on. decreassing performance. it SHOULD be a nice tan, NOT black or white. with the oil on yer wheel, I wouldn't think the plug would be white, indicating a too lean mix. I'm guessing its black. (from looking at yer wheel) A heavy mix is a good thing for break in though. Give it two or three tanks THEN think about a lighter oil mix.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

you speak the truth fatdaddy.
I am definately running a little rich (I wasn't super careful about my ratio but its about 20/1) gonna worry about letting her wear in first, then worry about leaning the mix.
the real issue with that oil is that I am only using the rear brake at the moment, this needs to change soon.

I put the tweekers on, I think I have them a little too tight, but it is helping with the vibration. as you can see from the first picture, Tea, Tools, and Gasoline!

lucky for me I had a moment of clarity before I started trying to figure out the power loss, I had run out of gas.
lots of fiddling with the carb without any noticeable improvement, I am seriously eyeballing one of those dellorto clones. but before I do that I am probably going to go buy a spark plug, the one that came with the kit is not very good.

anyone got a good recommendation for a spark plug?

 

[fatdaddy]

Happens all the time bro. I remember one day I couldn't get it restarted after stalling, checked EVERYTHING over and over for almost a half hour, Then I reached up and turned on the petcock. Just copy and paste a great big "L" on my forehead.
fatdaddy.
NGKB6HS plug

 

[GoreWound]

took a look at the plug today, and you were right fatdaddy, that thing is black as coal right now.
gonna get me one of those plugs next chance I get, I, also want to try leaning out the gas mix a little, but am not sure if it's even worth bothering with the stock carb.
maybe I will just get a dellorto clone then worry about leaning the mix once I have a functional choke, lol.

 

[fatdaddy]

Hey GW, Dont worry too much about the mix yet. Go ahead and run it heavy untill its broke in good. A good plug and wire is a good idea though. Just a regular auto boot and wire will work. NGK B6HS OR B5HS or B7HS.I run the middle plug B6HS Cause it never gets too hot or too cold in California. A black plug is better than a white plug, Ya know its getting oil. Just let it break in first. A little too much oil is better than too little oil. Too much oil wont hurt yer engine, Too little will fry it quick.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

well its a moot point now, my makeshift key didn't hold, ate the retaining ring on the drive sprocket.
now I need a whole new clutch over fifteen cents worth of metal.
also the vendor never emailed me back.
not happy