I am bad at Titles (OCC first build)

[GoreWound]

well... build's on hold for now, winter finally happened.
In the meantime I have decided to severely over-think my first time getting something welded. As of now I hope to get four tabs welded to the top tube for mounting the gas-tank.

Figured I might as well throw some questions I have on here:
If I take this bike to a welder and ask him to weld tabs to the top tube, what prep work would he want me to have already done?
In that vein, what data should I know about the bike that he might ask me? (e.g. steel? tube thickness?)
Can anyone suggest a good sealant I can spray onto the bike afterward?
Any tips you think I should hear really?

 

[maniac57]

The only prep it will need is marked where the mounts go, and the plating or paint ground off where the weld is needed.
You mark it, let the welder grind it or you can grind off the paint/plating yourself.
Keep a close eye on the rear lower frame where it meets the main bottom frame tube. They tend to crack here when motorized sometimes.
Also, be aware if you get a flat, that fat rear tire turns into tissue paper and will destroy everything back there in short order if it happens at speed. They also steer like dying wildebeast with a wooden leg.
I swapped on a WCC front end for better geometry and the fatter tire.

 

[Dan]

"They also steer like dying wildebeast with a wooden leg. " LOL

 

[GoreWound]

Some healthy advice right there, and a sweet bike!
Maniac57, how would you rate the brakes on that setup there? I still haven't test ridden mine and am a little worried about needing the rebuild the brakes with better (more expensive) ones.

Right now replacing the forks is just a bit outside my budget, but it's certainly on the maybe list. For all of its foibles, I kind of like the look of the factory fork, but I am under the impression that basically no aftermarket handlebars will fit in the clamp.
If I do swap out the forks, I will almost definitely be trying to get suspension, but will want to have a triple tree for that stupidly-overbuilt-ness.

I have some strange images floating around my mind about the seat+handlebars arrangement on this bike, I might be posting a sketch soon.

 

[maniac57]

Some healthy advice right there, and a sweet bike!
Maniac57, how would you rate the brakes on that setup there? I still haven't test ridden mine and am a little worried about needing the rebuild the brakes with better (more expensive) ones.

Right now replacing the forks is just a bit outside my budget, but it's certainly on the maybe list. For all of its foibles, I kind of like the look of the factory fork, but I am under the impression that basically no aftermarket handlebars will fit in the clamp.
If I do swap out the forks, I will almost definitely be trying to get suspension, but will want to have a triple tree for that stupidly-overbuilt-ness.

I have some strange images floating around my mind about the seat+handlebars arrangement on this bike, I might be posting a sketch soon.

My chopper has a set of V brake posts added to the forks so it has a very good front brake. On My bike, the rear is basically useless since it drags badly if adjusted tight enough to work., bu8t since everything about these bikes is slow, it doesn't bother me too much. I plan to eventually add another set of rear V brake posts on the other frame tube and use a double cable lever I already have.
Give Jim WIlson at Pedalchopper.com a call. He has a good range of brake options, depending on your budget, from stock upgrades to full on disc kits. I got all my parts for the second set from him except the brake posts.
I STRONGLY recommend a good front brake on ANY motorized bike, especially one of these poor handling choppers.

 

[GoreWound]

pedaled my bike up and down the street today (still no Vroom) i found the brakes to be coping well with the weight of the motor on it (and the shovel, lol) but i was getting some pretty severe rattle, i think i may need to file the inside of the clutch-arm cover a little more, also some fine tuning on the sprocket adapter will be necessary.

hopefully meeting that welder-guy next week (crosses fingers)

 

[fatdaddy]

For the brakes, use a dual pull lever and set the rear adjustment on the pads to the best ya can THEN set the front to actually do the stopping. Most of yer stopping power,about 70% is front brake anyway. I had the same brake setup on a couple of my OCC builds and they worked OK. disc is always better but you'll be just fine with what ya got.
AS far as installing the tank, All I did was use L-brackets and drilled through the top frame where I needed it and bolted it on, the frame top dont get enough stress to worry about a few small holes, And it's A LOT cheaper than paying for a welder. I used old small shelf brackets but all ya need is a peice of aluminium or steel about 1" wide, bend where ya need, attach it to the tank, Mark the holes where you drilled holes in the bracket on to the frame, Drill it, Slide through a long thinner bolt through to the bracket ya made for the other side and tighten it up. just buy 4 small shelf L-brackets And I'm sure you can figure it out from there.
Still aint got around to sizeing my pics or I could send one you can "kinda" see what I'm talking about. I think ya got the jest of what I mean though
Yer gonna like it when it's done, I loved MY choppers, except for the stiff ride.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

A double cable brake lever is a must, they ought to put one in with the kit. I am thinking right now that if I go with disc brakes I won't bother with the rear wheel, the V-brake on the back can just about stop the bike on its own, both together is right as rain. but the rain is the serious thing; the brakes aren't enough to stop the bike when they are wet, even without the motor. probably going to buy a front wheel from pedalchopper before long (he does include a free double pull lever!)

I was more than halfway through doing the L-bracket thing when I decided that it was looking ugly. I was using store bought brackets and they were not going to fit in place without being super obvious, them having offset holes in them that were countersunk on one side wasn't helping either.
also the fact that the only table vise I have is the miniature one seen in my pictures makes me less that confident in making the brackets from scratch.

I figure getting a welder to do it will be worth the expense just in terms of appearance, let alone sturdiness. as this is my first build I am betting on eliminating as many things that might fail on me as possible, as early as possible, will pay off in the long run.

 

[fatdaddy]

yeah bro, the brackets dont look so bad once ya get em painted. but yer right, before paint they do stand out.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

I hit the the hardware store again today (it was Lowes, I can't help myself it's like a five minute walk away) got a fuel filter that will fit (its only got a mesh in it though) and I also talked myself into trying to fabricate brackets so I got some steel flat bar and bolts.
got a grindstone to try and stop the rub inside my clutch actuator cover too.

haven't got to work with my bits and bobs yet so no new progress pics... of the bike.
here's some pictures of what I've been up to in the meantime, A prototype chaimail gauntlet!
I've gotten a little further than the pictures show, just the thumb left now.
the gauntlet is made of very weak rings as this one is just to test out the pattern, the final one will be done with welded rings in all likelihood (also the final build of the gauntlets will be a pair, I'm only making the right hand here)

 

[Dan]

You're destined for good, great and interesting things Brodder!

Do you have Harbor Freight up your way? If not, they ship for 7 buck$. Can buy cheap washers by the bundle.

Just a thunk.

Lemme know when you are selling those gloves. Too cool.


Just noticed, you use springs for raw material? I assumed you used lock washers.

 

[GoreWound]

You're destined for good, great and interesting things Brodder!

Do you have Harbor Freight up your way? If not, they ship for 7 buck$. Can buy cheap washers by the bundle.

Just a thunk.

Lemme know when you are selling those gloves. Too cool.


Just noticed, you use springs for raw material? I assumed you used lock washers.

thank you sir! that means a lot!

we have a Princess Auto somewhat near here, closest thing to Harbor Freight in Canada.

I am pushing the prototyping of these gloves, so far the pattern seems to be working, but after that I need to work out the rings I want to use for the final glove, find a supply for the snowmobile gloves I am building them off of, and test the final product a little before I can start selling them. I wish I could give an Idea how long it will take, but rest assured I will let you know when I can.

I've seen some people on the internet use lock washers but I'm just using regular wire right now (the 'spring' is just a length of wire manually coiled around a pen) for larger rings and heavier wire I have a steel mandrel that fits in the chuck of my power drill.
I will most likely be welding the rings closed for the final version of the gloves, riveting is much cooler but requires more specialized tools.

 

[Dan]

Too cool. Wire is such a better choice, me thinks.

LOL, before your debut on the discovery channel as the place to get all your chainmail needs met, Ya gotta, gotta build a DIY winder out of a can opener or pencil sharpener like crank.

I personally will not joust on a motorized bicycle until I have my incredibly, unfortunately named, set of "Gore-Wound" brand chainmail gloves
(accept no cheap imitation)

 

[GoreWound]

yeah, still thinking about brand names... lol

I halfway made one of four brackets, and was gifted some fancy valve caps.
later today I hope to get some more work done on those metal bitz!

 

[fatdaddy]

yeah, still thinking about brand names... lol

I halfway made one of four brackets, and was gifted some fancy valve caps.
later today I hope to get some more work done on those metal bitz!

I just ordered a couple of those fancy lighted caps. I hope mine work as well as yours look like they do. I figure more light means better visability. May keep some cager from running me off the road.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

they do seem to work fairly well, they are activated by motion so I suppose they are slightly wasted during the day. that said they would still be more visible than nothing.
I think using that Teflon tape might have been overkill, but I figured why not.

did a little more work on those brackets yesterday, nothing like a workout to remind you about how out of shape you are.
I should get power-tools.

 

[GoreWound]

well, she gave a valiant effort, but my flea market vise has clamped her last.
Almost held out until I was done too.
Also don't worry, I was sure to lean over the clamp while I was working so the broken part hit me directly in the dick.

 

[Dan]

Bummer! Can make and do so many things with a vise.

 

[GoreWound]

Like the Phoenix of Legend, a Mighty Vise arose from the Ashes of the Fallen!

finished with the bending, moving on to drilling. this part is a wonderful mix of both requiring a high degree of precision and being quite the workout for the ol' shoulders.

 

[fatdaddy]

well, she gave a valiant effort, but my flea market vise has clamped her last.
Almost held out until I was done too.
Also don't worry, I was sure to lean over the clamp while I was working so the broken part hit me directly in the dick.

OUCH!!! You DO know that hand tools were not meant to be used on body parts, dont'cha? I've smashed thumbs and fingers, dropped motors on my toe's, ect,ect, but never hit THAT. (Knock on woody.) Perhaps a pair of "one eyed" safety goggles. LOL.
fatdaddy.