I am bad at Titles (OCC first build)

GoldenMotor.com

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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My eyes aren't what they were. I spent 2 weeks thinking this thread was called I Am Bad At Ttitties.
 

GoreWound

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so, I can definitely say that, if anything, I have learned not to use mild steel for replacement half-moon keys.
:-||
the keyway is gone now, RIP.

also the spring washer got into a little fight with the clutch spindle. some regrettable things were said between them, and now they are not on speaking terms.

I guess that having a spare clutch assembly is a good idea anyway.
 

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fatdaddy

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May 4, 2011
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When yer talking china girls, Its a good idea to have spares of EVERYTHING. I keep all my blown motors from customer engine replacements, Nuts, bolts washers, And a lot of internal parts are still good. Sometimes I'd rather put in a good used Japanese bearing than a brand new cheapo chinese one, ect, ect.
fatdaddy.usflg
 

GoreWound

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okay I am trying to order a replacement clutch and I wanted to run this past the forum first.
this kit doesn't contain everything I need does it?

If I understand correctly I would still need to purchase a ten-tooth sprocket, the lock washer the nut and the woodruff keys right?

bearings too?

this would be so much easier if I didn't have to guess what's in that kit.
yeah, so anyone out there who knows if you could chime in here that would rock.
 

fatdaddy

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If the drive gear aint chewed up and both key slots are in good shape, Then all ya need for that is a good key. If the key slot on the arm or gear is fubar'd then yer gonna hafta split the cases and replace the large clutch arm and drive gear. The clutch arm is the thing with the big spring around it in the repair kit. If ya GOTTA open her up, you should make sure ya got good Japanese bearings instead of the cheapo chinese ones on the crank AND the clutch arm assembly. As for the clutch kit, It looks like EVERYTHING you'll need is there except for the clutch removal tool. ya prolly got one with yer engine kit.
fatdaddy.usflg
Good luck bro.
 

GoreWound

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to be honest I am getting slightly bewildered trying to compare the parts lists.
I am about ready to just try and call the guy up and get him to list all the parts in the whole clutch and sell them to me. I think that i need to replace the clutch shaft but am not sure (the keyway is a little bent but also the threads are a little shaved off too)
my ten-tooth sprocket is done unless i cut a new keyway into it, and I never even had a key with this motor.

the kit i linked doesn't seem to have a drive sprocket in it or any of the hardware from that side of the clutch shaft at all. I don't think it has any woodruff keys in it either.

and as far as bearings go, whatever bearings that website sells are the ones I am stuck with, no other dealers for canada except the one who won't return my emails.

so frustrating.
 

GoreWound

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I should give ebay a little more credit, but both those websites go through their .ca addresses in canada. and amazon.ca, at least, has terrible selection compared to it's .com counterpart. either way, it's shipping that gets you up here, you never see free shipping that includes canada.

but I am worried about parts matching, I was under the impression I should buy replacement parts through the same factory if possible, and for all the shortcomings the vendor i'm looking at, they definitely have that going for them.

I've been thinking it over all night, by barely thinking about it and instead practicing some ring flattening and pondering tiny rivets, and come to the conclusion that I think is the most reasonable way to move forward. I'm going to buy the clutch service kit, and also one or two each of all the parts I absolutely know I need one of (the sprocket, the washer and bolt that hold it on, and the woodruff key) any of those parts that came in the kit are spares at that point.
ultimately i will try not replacing the shaft first, if that doesn't work i will replace it too.

as far as the bearings go, frankly, I am hitting my upper limit for budget this month. maybe in the future I will upgrade the factory ones, but as of now I need to get some miles out of the parts I have. I am hoping to get some traction on my chainmail making next month (which is fancy talk for go buy a small drill-press)

also, fatdaddy, I wanted to thank you for all the help you are giving me with this.
 

fatdaddy

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Not a problem at all bro, I aint been able to get out in my own shop much lately, So I do the computer thing instead. And I dont even wanna talk BUDGET. If engine kits were selling for 1 cent each I could afford 1 right now. I just checked my checking account online and I dont think I can afford to fart this month. Cause ya gotta eat to fart. SSI hits on the 30th this time. 3 days and a wake up and I'm hitting up Denny's or Hometown buffet or whatever. I also gotta order a new sealed crank bearing and outer seal for my baby. She keeps throwing oil on the clutch pads, Just a few more days to get my ***** on the road again.
So yer saying not even China will honor the free shipping offer to mooseville? Is Canada At war with someone and blockaded. Are ya fighting with the polar bears in alaska again. EVERYONE up your way says its hard and expensive to get parts shipped in. So the only thing I could think of is, (Must be a war zone.LOL) If I get time I'll check out how much it REALLY cost to ship small parts to Canada. Maybe I can save you a couple bucks by shipping it from FATDADDY'S MOTOPEDS. No promises, but I'll check.
fatdaddy.usflg
I just got bleeped for using the B word for female dog. WELL. now I know.
 

GoreWound

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so yesterday I ordered my clutch and some spare parts, today I had a mysterious letter arrive containing a replacement woodruff key.

so in conclusion: motorboy.ca IS on fact an awesome vendor, communication leaves a little to be desired, but outside of that I regret not ordering the clutch from him.
thinking about it now, it would have been totally worth it to eat the long distance rates and phone him, his number is on his website.
oh well, I am definitely going through motorboy.ca for any further parts I may need.

still have to wait for the rest of the bits to arrive before I can get to work though.
 

GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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okay my back of tricks arrived!
the replacement clutch actuator arm I got is straight, the one on my motor is curved. the new drive sprocket has much deeper threads on it, and some minor geometry differences compared to the original one.

just one question before I proceed:
does it matter which way around I put the spring washer?
 

GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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well I just put it together, got her running. was severely sidetracked by making pixel art for this post.
as you can see in the pictures I managed to salvage my old sprocket too, also I really need a fender.

did some driving up and down my street, at first she was running a little rough but I blame the grease I bought "good to minus forty" my ass, stuff was like wax!

after some fiddling with the idle screw and the throttle cable I got it running nice if high idling. after a little while she perked right up, managed to adjust the idle much lower and got a good run in.

as I went to put her away I noticed why she suddenly started running better, my idle screw fell out! I even killed the motor by putting my finger over the hole.
I need a better carburetor.

in other news, I named the bike Tweeter.
Hence the pixels down under the thumbnails.
 

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fatdaddy

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May 4, 2011
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Hey GW, front fenders are not recommened on a MB. If you DO put one on, Do not use the struts that attach to the axle, cause what happens is the fender comes loose from vibration and the struts let it swing down and jam under yer tire, i call this a "Front fender SKI TRIP". One of my customers after insisting on a fender and a very stern warning from me ended up in the hospital for almost a week. She was on her way here to get her fender fixed,Cause it was coming loose. DIDN'T MAKE IT. She crashed two houses down from my place hitting the curb AND a car. SO, NO STRUTS!!! If the thing falls off, just let it fall so it dont jam under yer tire. You will lose all control and yer front end will be skiing on pavement, NOT a fun thing at 35mph.
fatdaddy..duh.
 

GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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I've been running some ideas through my head about the fender (I have also been considering trying to build some kind of kick-plate instead but, that don't mesh with pedals very nicely) I am almost definitely going to build it myself so I can have it made of as few parts as possible. I have somewhat been considering trying to come up with a way to make a one piece wheel cover of some kind.

Jn other news, Pedalchopper says my parts ship by Friday. Getting the handlebars, a dual pull brake lever, a Delorto clone, and a dial speedometer.
I am giddy with anticipation (even though I know the handlebars won't just fit on the bike without some more work.)

edit: here's a sketch of an idea for a fender I had
 

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GoreWound

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my box of things is here!
updates coming as soon as it's not too cold to touch metal again! (next week probably)
 

GoreWound

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well instead of waiting for it to warm up I just froze my fingers and toes off!
I installed the dual-pull brake lever, and the speedometer.
unfortunately the cable for the speedo was about half and inch too short... looks fantastic other than that though.

tried to fit the new handlebars, but the factory clamp was not having it, I think I can grind the handlebars a little to get them to fit though. also a comparison between the new and old bars.
 

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fatdaddy

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I can't really recommend grinding on the bars bro. There's a lot of extra stress putting bicycle bars on a motorized in the first place. THEN, anyplace you grind them is gonna make it weaker at that point. If yer bars give out at 30mph it aint gonna be funny.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY. Just build it safe.
fatdaddy.usflg
PS. If ANYTHING, Maybe open the clamp a little more. Grind or file IT out.
 
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GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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been thinking it over the past couple of days, and I am on that boat with you, my current thinking is to try and move the clamps a little wider on the triple-tree to clear the hump on the bars.

the thinner section of the handlebars is the exact right diameter to fit in the factory clamps, so if I can shift them a little wider then all will go nicely.
I need to take the clamps completely off to look at the triple tree though, there might not be enough room to just drill new holes for the clamps, I might need to make an adapter plate or something.

I totally forgot to take a picture of the bike with the new bars on it before I took them back off though (they held in place as long as I didn't touch them) absolutely beautiful.

it's supposed to warm up a little today, so I will probably do a little more tinkering.

also the speedometer reads in Miles Per Hour, so I may be having to repaint the dial. :p

as for the carb, I have a slightly insane plan that may or may not involve a customized intake manifold.