How fast can your 80cc really go?
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Hey Guys, I'm not sure if it's in this thread or not cause I didn't read all the posts ,only first 4 pages and last page, but I read somewhere the HT engine was designed to putt around town and go 15 mph and use very little fuel . Not to do 30-35 mph like we seem to need to go. So by design if you ride at those speeds and the thing grenades you really have no one to blame but yourself. And all that having been said my bike will do 30 -- 34 maybee with the Dax 65cc and a 36 tooth and thats saying something when you consider that its a 1953 Columbia (heavy) bike with an overweight rider 250 plus lbs. (me) and no modifications just tires pumped up tight on flat ground. I'm in the process of brake in on a CH-80 one of Chriss Hills engines from Thunder Bay and so far its sweet at 26 - 28 mph and will I'm sure go faster when fully mature. I'm near Baltimore Washington area if anyone wants to ride/camp /ride /fish /ride/whatever.....Tom
so all the wiring needed is to wrap the wire around the spark plug wire and thats it? does it need to be connected to anything else? what about power supply for the meter, i assume its got its own little battery?
do you know where i can find one that's analog?
Hi Mike -
Yes, just wrap the wire as depicted on the instructions. The SenDEC meter (Identical to another model known as TinyTach) uses a lithium hearing aid battery. (The website literature does not say this; the packaging does.) The unit is sealed in epoxy; not replaceable. When the battery goes dead in 5 years or so, you purchase another unit and swap them. The electronics uses fractions of a microamp of current like a liquid crystal display watch; that's why the battery can last so long. Side note: most batteries don't like really cold weather. The meter is easy to mount with any of a number of methods; just make it easy to remove as well.
The sense/pickup wire routes a little electrical pulse to the meter. Electronics convert the pulses to a readout that is easy to read. The conversion part is black magic to me.
The analog meter: Can be done, but they have a lot of negatives against them: You need a 13.2v battery power supply to operate; they are designed for 4-cycle engines; they are physically very big; they are relatively expensive. A search for something I would purchase turned up nothing.
MikeJ
Yes, just wrap the wire as depicted on the instructions. The SenDEC meter (Identical to another model known as TinyTach) uses a lithium hearing aid battery. (The website literature does not say this; the packaging does.) The unit is sealed in epoxy; not replaceable. When the battery goes dead in 5 years or so, you purchase another unit and swap them. The electronics uses fractions of a microamp of current like a liquid crystal display watch; that's why the battery can last so long. Side note: most batteries don't like really cold weather. The meter is easy to mount with any of a number of methods; just make it easy to remove as well.
The sense/pickup wire routes a little electrical pulse to the meter. Electronics convert the pulses to a readout that is easy to read. The conversion part is black magic to me.
The analog meter: Can be done, but they have a lot of negatives against them: You need a 13.2v battery power supply to operate; they are designed for 4-cycle engines; they are physically very big; they are relatively expensive. A search for something I would purchase turned up nothing.
MikeJ
thats interesting how they have the battery sealed in. i feel kind of weird asking this, is it on all the time or is there a way to turn it off? i figure if they're so serious about the seal that you cant replace the battery, a button would be out of the question.
I have succeeded in changing the Tiny-Tach battery, It's not fully potted in epoxy.
The unit displays time constantly and when the engine is running it wakes up and displays RPM and accumulates hours.
The Tiny-Tach is mainly for aircraft and is seriously overpriced. Alternate digital tachs for tractors and lawnmowers are a fraction the price.
I'd blame u, for insinuating that these motors "like" to run at such a low rpm...
Hahaha, that's funny!Or the guy who claims these motors were "designed" at all
As xlite said, the display shows hourmeter time continuously when the engine is not running. The idle current draw is in the milli-microamps range (nanoamps for those who know electronics).
Some units with additional features are available and do cost more. The bottom-of-the-line unit I purchased does not have the option of displaying other functions nor buttons to reset anything.
I used half-wide strips of black electrical tape and a thin cushion of foam tape to attach mine to the handlebars. It looks like it is factory-provided equipment.
MikeJ
Some units with additional features are available and do cost more. The bottom-of-the-line unit I purchased does not have the option of displaying other functions nor buttons to reset anything.
I used half-wide strips of black electrical tape and a thin cushion of foam tape to attach mine to the handlebars. It looks like it is factory-provided equipment.
MikeJ
A thatsdax 65cc is an engine he sold for a little while with a roller or "needle" bearing in the small end.
My 50cc are 43 and 45cc, my 65cc is 63cc and my 70's are 67cc and 69cc.
...and those are just the ones I have actually measured.
I have a Giant Stiletto for a kind of "show off" bike. They come stock with a jackshaft so I have gears and a mega-range cassette. People are always asking me how fast it goes, including cops riding bikes. I tell them it will do 25mph. I want to sound legal after all. The bike doesn't sound legal with just a 12" header pipe into a stinger and out. I just don't say that is in first gear! Calculates to 4600 rpm. Truthfully, I have had it up to 49.7 in 5th gear. Calculates to 4280. It was still picking up speed but the posted limit was 45 and traffic was getting in my way! Helps to be only 145lbs. The beatiful part was I was able to shift at that speed and drop the rpm. Nothing like cruising with traffic at just under 50mph on a motorized bicycle and not have the motor wound tight. 
Nothing like cruising with traffic at just under 50mph on a motorized bicycle and not have the motor wound tight.
Yes, nothing like it, if it were possible to do without going down hill all the time.
80 cc motors are restricted to a certain number rpm. rpm = speed I run 49cc 10,000 rpm motors with a nine speed amd the jack shaft built into the frame and it WILL hit 60mph I have built many 80-60-45-cc motors they are not built to go here. the CHEAP 66cc design was built with liability in mind if you truly get past 45mph with them you sre lucky by the way 50 to 0ne will destroy your motor does not matter if syn or not speed claims are like ******** every body has one . a opened up ported polished filed carb reworked exaust tuned and weight taken out of the crank and small sprocket on racing fuel gets you 45-48 do not listen to and higher claims with this engine it just isnt true. you will not go much faster with the nine speed kit wiyhout changing the size of the chainring shaka
Ok i will have a bite, what motored pushbike do you have that does 60mph? 49cc! 4 stroke?
and 50 : 1 will not destroy your motor ask the guy's using that opti 2 stuff 100:1 nuff said.
seriously people it would be awesome if when quoting a certain speed that the tyre brand and size in mm that you punch into the little speedos be quoted, also final drive ratio, then there would be no wtf!!!
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