A few more things to wrap up this build thread. The air cleaner I made and was so pleased with I have removed. I like how it looked and worked. I did not like how my leg rubbed up against it once I was able to actually ride this bike. I realized that the stock one laid in closer to the engine and for that reason replaced it. Also, once in place and with the engine shroud painted black it doesn't look so bad after all. I really don't know how to improve on it, so will leave it alone. It was a wrong turn along the way in this build. Something else I wanted to mention which is not shown in a picture is the need to disconnect the low oil sensor wire. Remember, this engine was designed to sit stationary. On my first few rides I couldn't figure how I was killing the motor. I would start it and then while mounting it would die. Once on, I could pull start it and off I'd go. Every time I mounted this was happening and I was trying to see what I was brushing up against to make that happen. In the middle of the night it dawned on me that when I mount I tip the bike toward me to make a lower profile and easier for me to swing my gimpy leg over the back of the bike. In tipping, the oil sensor kicked in and shut off the motor. You must disconnect it. The oil sensor and wire is shown in your manual. This, by the way, is where I wired in my throttle kill switch and it works just fine. I left the master switch alone and figure it will slow someone down if they try to start the bike without my knowing it. I don't think anybody would try a quick getaway pedaling it. Good luck. And speaking of pedal position... it is still in too close for the right pedal, so that I feel like I'm crowding the engine with my foot/leg. Pedal extenders would do the trick, as only an inch or so would make a big difference, but I think I'll bend the crank arm a bit and save some money. The last thing I wanted to show is in the final picture. You can see how the clutch bracket on the transmission happens to align with the seat post down tube on the cantilever frame. This gives you another alignment reference and it also provides a third mounting point for the engine. It was an after thought, but it has made the engine rock solid and I would recommend it. I used a couple bolts fed from the inside of the bracket and on the far side of the down post used the plate from a U bolt, bent a bit and with lock nuts to cinch it tight. What else? I ran the exhaust back from the engine and under the rear rack, using exhaust manifold wrap to insulate it. No issues with heat either for my leg or for the gas tank on the rack. I like the way it looks. The exhaust is from EZMotorbikes and what is used on Whizzers... real nice for power, sound and flexible so that I could follow lines of the bike in routing it. All that's left to share are some glamor shots in the next post, which I managed to take as winter began to shut things down here in the north woods of Minnesota.
(cont)
