Ghost Racer Kit

[scrollerguy]

A couple of weeks ago, I was pleased to find a delivery truck out front. My kit had arrived. Now I'll see what all the hoopla is about 4 strokes.

Having built about 10 or 12 of the 2 strokes, I was hoping I had bettered myself. No more loose exhausts, no more broken studs, no more funny noises.

Upon opening the kit, I found no instructions on how to put it together, well after trial and error, it was not a big deal. Everything went together rather smooth.

Turn on the gas, yup, choke, yup. First pull it started. Wow! Let it warm up, ease off the choke, and it settled into a nice idle, no meessing with the carb at all.

Okay here goes, mount the gps,head down the driveway and go.

My last 2 stroke build topped out at a gps 31mph. I was going almost as fast at quarter throttle.

Now I know what the hoopla is all about, no vibration, no surprises, just a smooth ride, and at 27 28mph, I was a happy camper.

If anyone is interested, or thinking about this kit, go for it, it's a good deal.

I do havee the MM adapter with a 40 tooth ring on the back, so it does'nt obliterate the hills, but I do go up the same hills faster than I did before.

If anybody wants a brand new 44 tooth sprocket and rag joint, you can have it for shipping cost, I wont ever use them again.

Scrollerguy

 

[The_Aleman]

<removed out of protest to certain "staff" practices in this forum.>

 

[KCvale]

I bought a couple 4-stroke 7G kits as well and when I got to looking at it yesterday I see this blatant rip-off of the Gurbee 4G uses a brass bushing like the old stage III's not a bearing for the clutch bell.

I am all too familiar with bushing based clutch bells, it doesn't take long before they start sounding like one of those wind up tambourine playing monkey's on crack at idle.

There was bearing mod posted on the forum that uses 6, 13x20x4mm bearings in the hole to get 24mm wide, then the output shaft on the engine is turned down to 13mm from 15mm to get inside the bearings so that's it's the right size.

Pfftt, I'm not going to turn a frig'n engine output shaft and buy 6 bearings for a simple job so I looked around yesterday and found something else.

Bearing-Belt and Chain, Inc.
http://www.bbcarizona.com/products/

15x21x12mm wide HK1512, $6 each delivered and 2 will do the job with a quick drill press 21mm drill bit ream of the 20mm clutch bell hole.

My local BB&C store does not stock that size at the moment but I ordered half a dozen and they should be on their way direct to me today as he was just placing orders.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[KCvale]

Jezz, neither of my kits came with a throttle either!
So the list of missing parts needed so far for this Macargi Panera with 1-piece cranks is:

Bottom bracket 3-piece conversion cups.
BB cartridge crank shaft (note stand width is fine)
5/8" pedals.
Throttle.

If I didn't routinely stock all those items I'd be pissed.

*UPDATE*
Add a crap mount base to the list, I'm using a leftover 4G base for this build.

 

[ajoh]

KC one problem with those bearings is there aren't sealed an nothing to stop dirt from getting at those bearings

 

[theaceinthehole]

I read the bearing conversion thread as well, they specifically said not to use needle bearings not just because they aren't sealed, but because the keyway would end up tearing the bearing. I'm pretty hesitant to turn down my shaft as well. They do make sealed bearings that fit the 4g but since they're so rare they cost $17 a piece. Cobrafreak mentioned 6 being overkill though so you might be able to get away just using 3, but I'm not an expert and I'm not sure what would happen if the bearings were free to move along the shaft since there would be about 10mm of extra space. For those interested:

http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/radial-bearings/9558/15x20x3-5-mr2015

but you'll still need to take off .8mm from the shaft since 5/8in ~ 15.875mm

I think using 15x21x4 bearings would be cheaper and less risky than turning down the shaft since a clutch bell is cheaper to replace. But apparently the clutch bell is made of soft metal.

 

[ajoh]

I think using 15x21x4 bearings would be cheaper and less risky than turning down the shaft since a clutch bell is cheaper to replace. But apparently the clutch bell is made of soft metal.

something you haven't thought of which cobra did is that boring out the bell
has it's own risks like the bell not being centered an to much metal taken
out etc sure the bells are cheap but you risk it flying apart at high rpm

i don't see the problem with following what cobra did with his only difference
is i'll use a file instead of my grinder................

 

[scrollerguy]

I see that other people agree, it is a nice ride. I only travel 20 miles round trip, maybe a little more. Going fast is nice, but just cruising is nice too.

I will post some pics as soon as it warms up here, it's nothing fancy, but it's mine. I added some cherry wood, blinkers, horn, brake light, running light, and of course the all important 1200 lumen headlight.

The custom exhaust I made for the other engine should fit, I'll see when it gets colder.

I also am thinking of doing a cherry wood strip gas tank, much like a strip canoe. What with one side hollowed out for a tank of some kind, and the other for the electrics. So it would look like a real gas tank, only one side would be accesible for the wiring.

Scrollerguy

 

[KCvale]

Delete this please.

 

[KCvale]

delete this please

 

[Ibedayank]

checking what you post to make sure what you post is accurate is helpful

15mm slightly less than 5/8 Inch 0.590
16mm 5/8 Inch 0.629
17mm slightly less than 11/16 Inch 0.669

http://www.carolynrelei.com/inchchart.htm

 

[abikerider]

I measured .625" (5/8" or 15.9mm) for the smaller diameter and .765" (19.4mm) for the larger diameter of the shaft of my 7g using my dial calipers.

 

[theaceinthehole]

something you haven't thought of which cobra did is that boring out the bell
has it's own risks like the bell not being centered an to much metal taken
out etc sure the bells are cheap but you risk it flying apart at high rpm

i don't see the problem with following what cobra did with his only difference
is i'll use a file instead of my grinder................

It sounded like he didn't even attempt to try to that method. It looks like KC is using a drill press which could probably center the hole pretty well. The bell increases by 3.14mm around, my guess is that it won't make the clutch bell that brittle and if you had a weak clutch bell chances are it would've broken at 20mm as well. The thing about cobra's method I didn't like is that I might switch to an agk jackshaft if I decide I don't like the 4G, but if I shave the shaft it will be too small for the jackshaft and I'll have to use jb weld or plumber putty to reshape the shaft. I can't say I'm not a little worried about these poor quality bells exploding though.

 

[abikerider]

It sounded like he didn't even attempt to try to that method. It looks like KC is using a drill press which could probably center the hole pretty well. The bell increases by 3.14mm around, my guess is that it won't make the clutch bell that brittle and if you had a weak clutch bell chances are it would've broken at 20mm as well. The thing about cobra's method I didn't like is that I might switch to an agk jackshaft if I decide I don't like the 4G, but if I shave the shaft it will be too small for the jackshaft and I'll have to use jb weld or plumber putty to reshape the shaft. I can't say I'm not a little worried about these poor quality bells exploding though.

My thoughts exactly. It seems to me no one has tried this yet. I will be using a drill press very carefully when I drill it out. Plus it will be very little material that will be removed. I still have some concern for the durability of the bell/pulley connection but not enough to scare me off. If it fails I can decide to go Cobrafreak's method or EZ Motorbike method. All in the name of Science!

 

[KCvale]

I measured .625" (5/8" or 15.9mm) for the smaller diameter and .765" (19.4mm) for the larger diameter of the shaft of my 7g using my dial calipers.

I just tossed my linear manual caliper in the trash.
A digital caliper verified the above on the engine I have so I'll delete that post and update the pics.

 

[Msiert]

Not a ghost racer just the base ghost bike with the engine kit plus exhaust pipe and yet to be put on big light (wiring is done just waiting on replacement light).

Also waiting on a tach and hour meter to come in (Wednesday) and get that installed then fire it up and take it for a test drive.

 

[Msiert]

I'm impressed with the quality of the Phantom Ghost bicycles and their 4 cycle engine. I'm almost done building my kit which was the the base ghost bike with the engine kit. As soon as the picture I uploaded gets improved it will show up here.

 

[scotto-]

As soon as the picture I uploaded gets improved it will show up here.

How will you improve it? How long will it take?

 

[Msiert]

How will you improve it? How long will it take?

Right now I'm just adding a tach and hour meter, rear flasher and a mirror. I posted a link to the tach/hour meter below.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_524744_524744#

Future mods might be something to tell me how fast, how far and my times. Nothing planned for go faster mods at this time.

I took me a solid week to put it all together....but still need to install the light, tach/hour meter and finish the wiring.

 

[abikerider]

I'm impressed with the quality of the Phantom Ghost bicycles and their 4 cycle engine. I'm almost done building my kit which was the the base ghost bike with the engine kit. As soon as the picture I uploaded gets improved it will show up here.

Looking good! Phantom does have nice (but pricey) stuff. It looks like his Ghost DIY kit. Of course you know this thread is about the Kings/Gasbike 7G Ghost Racer kit and not the Phantom Ghost. They sell similar frames and motors but not exactly the same. You should probably start a separate build thread.