Getting really frustrated with my EBAY purchase

P

Papabear86

New Member
I just bought a Power King engine kit on EBAY and am having a really tough go of it.

I received everything later than anticipated (that is not a big deal) and have been working on the engine kit for 3 days.

My son is supposed to ride the bike in a parade on Friday, July 4th, and I get the dang thing to work.

Has anyone here ever worked on one of these kits.

Its a 70cc engine (or so I was sold), it has a motorcycle chain that would pull a house, its instructions are nice and polite but inadequate and I have no clue how the clutch assembly is supposed to operate.

Desperate Dave!!
 
A) Install clutch lever to left side of handlebar and attach cable end to lever.

B) Squirt oil down the cable sleeve: Route clutch cable through the ball-mount on motor with the big spring around the cable jacket and ahead of the ball mount. The big spring serves as a cable heat shield.

C) Insert cable wire through small spring and route through clutch arm and attach brass cable-end and screw. Adjust cable tension to allow very slight play in arm. Handlebar clutch lever or twist clutch must be in the released or outward position to complete this operation

D) Activate lever a few times, and check clutch arm for slight free play: About 1/16” free play is OK. Re-adjust if needed. Basics of clutch operation: The clutch lever pulls the cable that moves the clutch arm. In turn the clutch arm pushes a rod through the motor that pushes the clutch plate. ( similar to a car clutch.)Releasing the clutch lever engages the engine torque to the drive chain. The clutch allows engine to start, and engage or disengage engine torque to the drive chain. When the bike is in the pedal mode the handle bar clutch lever is locked inward in the catch notch. The bike then operates in default as it would without any engine.Periodic clutch adjustment is necessary to maintain efficient operation

image048.jpg

Cut of excess cable from clutch arm to avoid any interference
 
Thank you, my clutch wont move in the direction as that picture, possibly my assembly is too tight.

I took apart the assembly to get the chain on there, its a thick one, and I cannot get the sprocket to move. I replace the clutch assembly and still cannot get the sprocket to move. There is ample grease on it and it will move the engine with the tool that came with it, but it wont move otherwise.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!


fairracing31 said:
A) Install clutch lever to left side of handlebar and attach cable end to lever.

B) Squirt oil down the cable sleeve: Route clutch cable through the ball-mount on motor with the big spring around the cable jacket and ahead of the ball mount. The big spring serves as a cable heat shield.

C) Insert cable wire through small spring and route through clutch arm and attach brass cable-end and screw. Adjust cable tension to allow very slight play in arm. Handlebar clutch lever or twist clutch must be in the released or outward position to complete this operation

D) Activate lever a few times, and check clutch arm for slight free play: About 1/16” free play is OK. Re-adjust if needed. Basics of clutch operation: The clutch lever pulls the cable that moves the clutch arm. In turn the clutch arm pushes a rod through the motor that pushes the clutch plate. ( similar to a car clutch.)Releasing the clutch lever engages the engine torque to the drive chain. The clutch allows engine to start, and engage or disengage engine torque to the drive chain. When the bike is in the pedal mode the handle bar clutch lever is locked inward in the catch notch. The bike then operates in default as it would without any engine.Periodic clutch adjustment is necessary to maintain efficient operation

image048.jpg

Cut of excess cable from clutch arm to avoid any interference
Click to expand...
 
I actually think this would be a fun business since so many parking spaces are being removed from campus while enrollment continues to increase. $4.00 gas makes it appealing also.
 
Are you trying to move the clutch arm by hand?? It is very dificult to almost impossible to do it that way..
 
I have even more of a mess now, my dad tried to thread the chain without removing clip and it is now stuck, Lovely.

That is what I get for having an Engineer for a dad
 
Take the spark plug out and use the sprocket/ sparkplug socket that should have come with kit. Start the chain on sprocket, the use the socket on the sprocket nut to turn the sprocket to thread the chain.....
 
OK, taking the plug out was the key. Now that I have the chain off I can see that it rubs the tire. There is a rubber wheel that is supported by the frame that I assume is for the benefit of the chain. Is this item for the upper or lower chain? Would installing it keep it from rubbing?
 
I think the rubber rolling thing is a chain tension device that supports the chain about half way to the sprocket.

Dont see how that would keep it from rubbing the tire

Any ideas?

New tire maybe?
 
I had to go down to a 26x2.00 tire, it still rubs a little bit but not enough to worry about. Some guy's use a 26x1.90.....
:ride2:
 
Mine came with a rear sprocket that was bit offset. If attached to the wheel the wrong way it would move the chain really close to the tire. I turned it over and it moved the chain a little farther away from the tire. Don't know if that will work for you or not. Just a thought..........................
 
yeah from what I've read the sprocket has a bit of an angle to it. Check and see if yours is point in towards the wheel. If it is, remove it and flip it around and see what happens. If not, a smaller tire, or I wonder if some sort of spacer could be rigged up.
 
I assume you've gotten the chain on alright, with the master link pointed like an arrow, with the blunt end facing in the direction of chain travel and the open end away? OK. The chain tensioner with the plastic-like wheel bolts onto the bottom the chain, the slack side, typically bolted onto the horizantal part of the frame between the pedal and rear wheel....may need to remove chain links if it can't get properly tightened. I had a 2 inch rear wheel and it rubbed, had to go to a 1.5 inch tire to prevent rub...but pinch-flatted every single ride.
 
Did you get the clutch lever figured out? When it's pulled, it should look like the picture previously given to you, and the engine sprocket should spin fairly freely.
 
I had similer issue, You have to do what you can. mounting the motor a few milimeters to the side can help. I had my rear sprocket on and off 3 times till I got it the way i wanted. Actually cut a thick rubber gasket as a spacer between the rubber spacer and sprocket. it brought the sprocket out a little. I then put 1/16 washers between each side of hub and rear dropouts. helped the chain clear frame too.
 
I am heading to a motorcycle repair place to have them take out the links. I could not get the links to punch out, much to the chagrin of my fingers.

I would estimate that I am 20 hours into this lil job.

I have the clutch working properly, I should have the chain working this afternoon, the big test is whether or not it will run.

Thank you guys,

From deep in the heart of Texas!!!
 
Good luck Papabear . You might have more trouble wiping that silly little grin off of your face after it fires up for the first time .

Hi Cookie . It's been a long time . Welcome . .... D.J.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top