Fito Modena GT with Magic Pie 3

Lungcookie

New Member
Well I am doing this bassackwards as a build goes.
Still not actually a built thread, more just like some bike porn for the community. :)
It is done now, really it is...except the battery...
I thought I was done last October.

Started all wrong and titled my original thread in such a way only music themed searches might apply.

In case your bored.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=51000

Super happy with the Magic Pie 3, 1200 miles, still going.
I would say its a great starting point to anyone looking into ebikes.

Love the Fito frame, its about a 5" stretch compared to a Mt.bike frame. Very comfy for me at 5'7". Only thing I would say is stay away from 24" wheels, you are fairly limited in good tire choice. Unlike 26" where you can get pretty much anything you can think of.

I did ditch the 4way plug and do away with the brake levers/re-gen braking.
I don't like the re-gen brake in the dirt it locks and skids the tire...no fine control like with a standard hand brake lever.

Here are a couple pics, would not change a thing, now...on this bike.
I ran the wires so I can reach down and disconnect the battery quickly if I have to.
My new favorite pedals.
 

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Cool, I am sure you'll love it...I was hoping I had not talked you out of it.
It is a great all-around motor.

Ride on!
brnot
 
Looks great. I used a 7.65 ammo can for my battery box. My pair of SLA batteries won't fit inside, so I had to do some cutting. My frame triangle is really small too.
 
...I did ditch the 4way plug and do away with the brake levers/re-gen braking.
I don't like the re-gen brake in the dirt it locks and skids the tire...no fine control like with a standard hand brake lever.

I agree generally, but I thought I'd mention a modification folks in this thread may find interesting. While the regen braking isn't capable of subtle control & even poses a potential hazard in adverse conditions (particularly with front hubs) and although the effect of the regen brake in it's intended purpose (energy recovery) being somewhat marginal - it is in fact quite handy indeed as a supplementary braking system, provided only that you can decide if & when it should be used in addition to your normal brakes, which the switched brake levers don't allow.

The regen braking activation also overrides both the set cruise control as well as any controller malfunction (run away motor etc.) & while you could just unplug the power supply to achieve a similar result, this may be difficult to do while riding.

It's a simple fix however - there's the likely disused horn button on the left control assembly, a two pin momentary on switch in easy reach, perfect for the application. Just find the color coded wires for both the horn & the regen activation & connect them as you would the brake switch, polarity isn't a factor as it's just an ungrounded switched circuit.

Now you can choose when to supplement your braking, override cruise control or any malfunction at the press of a button.

Initially I only did this as I couldn't use the switched levers (integrated shifters) but I wanted to experiment with the regen feature, I wasn't planning on making it a permanent modification, yet as it turns out I now use only the regen brake (rear hub) the vast majority of the time I wish to slow, but not stop, use the regen & front disc only when I wish to stop normally, use the regen & both the front & rear discs all together when I emergency stop... in fact, the only time I don't use the regen to some extent is on slippery surfaces.

I really quite like it & would suggest trying the above modification, it's easy enough to disconnect or not use it if you find it's not to your liking. It may not provide much power back to the batteries but it sure helps braking, massively reduces pad wear & is always silent. It turned out to be a very handy feature indeed, barring only their one small oversight - selective control ;)
 
I had regen set up on my MP2 through the brake lever (1). I soon cut it loose. I had plans to move it to the horn switch, but really didn't care for the pulsating "ABS" type of application that grabbed hard when finally slowing down. I really cant believe its true regen. I never saw an increase in voltage no matter how small on the volt meter. I can actually see minute voltages increases when backing off the throttle at speed, or pedaling with the throttle off. I concluded that the controller is adding voltage in reverse to effect the braking as the really hard application came just before the stop(under 10mph) and I cant believe that there is that type of energy being generated at that speed. If my assumptions are correct its costing battery to use the regen.
 
With the Cycle Analyst you can see the re-gen does work.
I ride in mostly flat land so the re-gen is not helping me any.
In hilly terrain it should add a little bit back to the battery.

I agree the braking effect works very well, too good for me.
I have a one mile dirt/gravel ride to the pavement and the re-gen brake skids in the dirt because its just on or off.
It would be a good idea to have a kill switch, the way I have the plug setup I should be able to reach down by my knee and quickly disconnect.

These ammo boxes are handy, that army super ebike here on the forum gave me the idea.

Here is another idea for a kill switch.
 

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Nice switch! I bought one to use as I really thought the horn was cool. Got it from an ebay auction from China for $.99 plus $3 slow boat shipping. Finally concluded the regen just wasn't for me and never hooked it back up. It actually worked the rear suspension pretty hard. I also had it skid the rear tire on pavement when sand was present. I suppose I could have adjusted it through the controller, but the bike has great brakes with excellent modulation so why bother.
I have my doubts about the brake linked switches stopping all failures of a runaway controller but probably should hook it back up and disable the regen.

BTW really cool bike! Single speed on a multi rear hub? I did similar once but added a spring loaded flat idler in place of the rear derail. I mostly used one speed but could quickly select another when necessary just by manually moving the chain.
 

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Thanks CB2
That 2 gear rear sprocket, I used to get the chain far enough away from the fat tire that It wont rub. Also for chain alignment, had to put a wider bottom bracket in to clear the battery with the crank arms.
It still feels like it wants to shift when I hit the washboards in the road(when pedaling), its not perfectly straight...an idler, might help keep the chain more in line.
Gah! I thought I was done with this thing!

This bike is really comfy with fat tire, spring seat post and spring seat its like 2+ inches of travel.
I put 3 different forks(2 suspension)on it and went back to the one that came with the bike, I like it because its very solid feeling. No pedal bounce, no bottoming out, no flex.
That front tire is like a Kenda flame except is 26" and is made for pedal-taxi's down in New Orleans. ie=very durable. Good price too $30 w/shipping I believe, don't quote me on that.

Yeah the re-gen is not for me either, also made me think that every time I use it, it hits the axle thus loosening the axle nut. Where a disc or rim brake resists at the hub not axle.
 
Couple more pics.
 

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FatFito

She gained a couple pounds.
Dirt bike... to street bike... back to dirt.

All that Sonders talk got me thinking and I put a Fat bike together last winter (not electric) but I didn't really like the 4" balloon tires and I kept kicking the front tire with my foot.
Also just felt kinda dorky riding it, was fun at first but didn't last long.
Not sure how they ride these fat bikes in the snow, I would just spin out the back tire on any slight incline and have to push. Forget about stopping.
You get fairly wet from those huge tire kicking the snow up. Maybe on groomed snowmobile trails would be ok.
I guess there a some trails groomed for fatbikes here in the winter, don't think I am into the snow like when I was younger.

The fito was just collecting dust after I got that Gravity FSX/Mac10t flying.
So thought I would give it a facelift.
The 26x3 is a little less bulky, 65mm rim, 135mm hub/fork.
24x3 on the back.
Works all right in the dirt if you just ride mellow, not racing around.
Back pack battery for power.

/Cheers
 

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That's a way cool bike LC! Given any more thought to the 10ah lipos from HK?

Yes sir! In the Mail.
On sale west coast store $160 for 2 w/shipping.

That front on this bike may look cool but it rides terrible...heavy steering feeling.
Worked best with the 24x3 on the front. IMO

/cheers
 
Board track style.

I think this is favorite looking version of this bike so far.
Cant pedal, but its not as uncomfortable as it looks.
 

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BakPak battery, yes.

The more I used the back pack the more I got used to it and liked it, makes the bike feel lighter, more bike like.
Works as a cutoff, if you get off the bike wrong it unplugs.
If some fool steals my bike they don't get the battery.
It is bright orange and has reflectors all over it.
I can carry tools and extras.
It has a crash pad in it.

Battery almost ruins the lines of the bike.

...cough...have another bike in the works too.

Pack will make it useable for all the bikes.
street=eFito
cross country=eGravity
dirt bike=eFantom

My 3 then I am done! laff

Been thinking about a gasser too, its a sickness.
 
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