Felt slater Q matic New Build

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Ooontzler

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Feb 24, 2014
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I guess I've always been sort of wary of internal-gear hubs. I don't have any experience with them personally, but somehow the idea of all the engine's power being concentrated in a very small space to me raises the probability that something will blow up. Of course this isn't always the case, but generally the more energy in a smaller space the higher the chance for an explosive reaction :p
Still, that tandem rig is sweet! I'll bet it flies down the road.

If I can't find a way to creatively wedge the jackshaft into my existing frame, then a cruiser frame will probably be the next step. I'd like to get my hands on a Felt frame but they seem to run a bit pricey ('cept they look so dang cool!!). The Micargi Rover 7-speed looks like an alright option too. Guess I can shop around for the best price until my next paycheck :p

Thanks for all the tips guys, I really appreciate it!
 

Ooontzler

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Feb 24, 2014
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Bay Area, CA

I've been studying this setup as much as I can in the past week or so, and of all the potential frames I've found none of them seem to have as much space between the rear wheel and the seat tube as this one.

Which Felt frame did you use for this build? I'd love to get my hands on one, or find a similar frame with plenty of clearance between the rear tire and the seat tube. I guess it all depends on how far forward I can get the engine, too...
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
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Forgot I was counter-pointing in this thread, heh.

Interesting - could you expand on that?
Unless I'm totally mis-understanding something... the advantage of a shift kit is a variable gear ratio, so that you climb hills better and not redline on flat streets. From reading what others have posted and visually looking at my Q-matic, it evidently functions like the other transmissions out there except with far superior build quality and the clutch is located in the rear. This means that it still has a static gear ratio, and a bigger/smaller rear sprocket would be the only way of changing that... right?

My goal here is to be able to make it up the two decent-sized hills between home and work (and any other reasonable hills I might encounter), and then not strain my engine when I'm cruising along on flat terrain. I don't need to go over 30mph, but I'd like to get to that speed without my engine sounding like it's going to blow up.

Compared to a HS+4G, the HS+Q-Matic is lousy on hills:

4G has more reduction and less clutch slippage. It's available in 4:1 or 5:1. This allows much easier gearing for hills with a shift kit and being able to retain usable pedal cadence ratio - that is, being able to pedal while the engine is in it's powerband.

A Q-Matic has much less reduction and a much higher clutch slip rate. It's reduction is somewhere in the area of 3:1. This means you lose the ability to pedal+engine power your way under load unless you engineer a heckuva lot more reduction into the jackshaft and/or crank. The clutch doesn't fully lock until higher RPMs. This means accelerated clutch wear under heavy load and lower RPM. The Q-Matic also has a second area of potential slippage: the belt.

A Huasheng itself doesn't have much hillclimbing prowess, only ~2 ft/lbs of torque. When you're climbing a hill, a 4G's clutch will stay locked all the way until the engine bogs out. Not a Q-Matic, it'll burn up the clutch before the engine stalls. If you lack the ability to effectively pedal assist the engine at it's torque peak, you're losing out on a lot of additional torque. Chevrolegs make more torque than a Huasheng. Also, a Q-Matic clutch is likely slipping at a Huasheng's torque peak (4500 RPM engine, much less RPM at clutch).

If you're climbing a hill and your engine is at 5K RPM and falling, it's up to your legs to try to help. With a shift kit, everything goes through the pedal chain. Therefore, your jackshaft gearing and rear gear ratios become the most important thing to effective power delivery. What good is leg power to assist when at 5K engine RPM your pedal cadence is 160+? Example: with a 3:1 transmission and standard SBP 4-stroke shift kit jackshaft gearing, your reduction to pedal crank is 22.25:1. That means 45 pedal RPM for every 1000 engine RPM. Hence, you'd be unable to pedal assist over 3000 engine RPM.

My previous setup (Hoot transmission with jackshaft kit) could do that fairly well - it had some issues early on with the carb and a replacement carb fixed things right up, but I had all of a day and a half to explore that new carb's limits before the Hoot bit the big one. Still, I could putt up hills no problem and when cruising the engine was nowhere near redline.
If you already have the shift kit and engine and bicycle, why not just bolt a 4G up to that? Order a 4G and ask em if the 11T freewheel will work with the current model. If it does, order that too. Bolt it all up and you're back on the road. It's more compact and more responsive than a Q-matic.

Am I missing something obvious here? Say I had a hypothetical perfect bike frame that fit the engine, jackshaft kit, and Q-matic perfectly - does the QM work well to the point where the added gear ratios just wouldn't help much? Should I just go with a 60t or 62t sprocket in the back, and be mindful of the RPM on flats?
IMHO, that would be a better route than shift kitting a Q-Matic. By having the pedal and engine drivetrains separate, you're in a better position to add your pedal torque when you need it. The Q-Matic is an excellent straight-line transmission, but with a small engine like a Huasheng, you need all the help you can get sometimes.

Here are some pictures of a bike I helped a customer build, but he did way more than he needed to do and included a spring loaded chain tensioner and a few other unnecessary parts.

It is a Qmatic with a shifter kit, rear wheel has a Sturmey Archer 8 speed, custom exaust I built for him and a Honda GXH with a custom cam, High performance Carb and Filters, can you say ZOOM!
Looks like it has a horrible cadence:engine RPM ratio. That's almost unavoidable when one uses a S/A 8-speed in a shift kit. 1st gear is 1:1.

I doubt it's geared very well, care to share the gears used?


I my self I have a SBP 4 stroke shifter kit and I am going to do the shifter kit with my Huasheng 144F ID generator engine on my Felt MP, for towing and climbing hills and keeping the rpms down on the flats, all negative the talk in world will not change my mind.
Because I know exactly what I will end up with, a I bike that will be able to do what it is I need it to do and a stock qmatic will not do it.

Terry
Actually, you don't know that yet. It's not done. I hope you DO get it done tho, I'd like to see how silly a 144F looks in a nice Felt frame. RHS pics.
 

Ooontzler

New Member
Feb 24, 2014
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Bay Area, CA
Forgot I was counter-pointing in this thread, heh.




Compared to a HS+4G, the HS+Q-Matic is lousy on hills:

4G has more reduction and less clutch slippage. It's available in 4:1 or 5:1. This allows much easier gearing for hills with a shift kit and being able to retain usable pedal cadence ratio - that is, being able to pedal while the engine is in it's powerband.

A Q-Matic has much less reduction and a much higher clutch slip rate. It's reduction is somewhere in the area of 3:1. This means you lose the ability to pedal+engine power your way under load unless you engineer a heckuva lot more reduction into the jackshaft and/or crank. The clutch doesn't fully lock until higher RPMs. This means accelerated clutch wear under heavy load and lower RPM. The Q-Matic also has a second area of potential slippage: the belt.

A Huasheng itself doesn't have much hillclimbing prowess, only ~2 ft/lbs of torque. When you're climbing a hill, a 4G's clutch will stay locked all the way until the engine bogs out. Not a Q-Matic, it'll burn up the clutch before the engine stalls. If you lack the ability to effectively pedal assist the engine at it's torque peak, you're losing out on a lot of additional torque. Chevrolegs make more torque than a Huasheng. Also, a Q-Matic clutch is likely slipping at a Huasheng's torque peak (4500 RPM engine, much less RPM at clutch).

If you're climbing a hill and your engine is at 5K RPM and falling, it's up to your legs to try to help. With a shift kit, everything goes through the pedal chain. Therefore, your jackshaft gearing and rear gear ratios become the most important thing to effective power delivery. What good is leg power to assist when at 5K engine RPM your pedal cadence is 160+? Example: with a 3:1 transmission and standard SBP 4-stroke shift kit jackshaft gearing, your reduction to pedal crank is 22.25:1. That means 45 pedal RPM for every 1000 engine RPM. Hence, you'd be unable to pedal assist over 3000 engine RPM.
This is very interesting, thanks for posting. I guess now I wish I'd researched my options more...

If you already have the shift kit and engine and bicycle, why not just bolt a 4G up to that? Order a 4G and ask em if the 11T freewheel will work with the current model. If it does, order that too. Bolt it all up and you're back on the road. It's more compact and more responsive than a Q-matic.
Simple: because I already have the dang thing =/

All my research beforehand indicated that the Q-matic was the "best transmission one could buy", and given the spectacular failure of my previous one (and the scattered reports of problems with the 4G, and near-universal praise of the Q-matic, and the fact that standalone 4G transmissions were seemingly sold out everywhere when this was all going down) I made what is, in hindsight, an impulsive decision and just goram bought it. Returning it would mean eating the shipping cost and then still being without a ride until 4Gs are back in stock (in June, according to B-E).
The origin of this quest to jackshaft a Q-matic comes from my previous setup, which had a jackshaft with Hoot chainbox - the hills in my town demand further gear reduction, and given the success (before failure) of my previous bike, logic dictated that, once the transmission element was solved, that the additional gear reduction aka jackshaft setup be adapted along with it to achieve a similar result pre- transmission failure.

Oh well. Research is never completed, merely abandoned in the face of deadlines. This is a project now, and it's as much academic and creative as it is practical. Thank you for your perspective regardless, even if it's made me severely re-think my plans.

:-||
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
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el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
Well, there's always larger jackshaft input sprockets and custom outer crank sprockets. I don't know how large a jackshaft input sprocket you'll be able to fit in your setup - that will be limited to the distance between Q-Matic output and jackshaft input - so you may have to rely mostly on increasing reduction at outer crank sprocket.

When I built my shifter 4G setup, it had the sprockets that came with the shift kit: 17T input and 48T outer crank. That's 37.09:1 with a 5:1 11T output 4G, or about 27 pedal RPM per 1000 engine RPM. That was like pedal redline at the engine torque peak. I fit the largest sprocket I could fit on the jackshaft input (18T) and figured I'd run a 9T output and 76T on the outer crank. Rather than have a 12" diameter crank sprocket, I switched to #35 gearing, giving me a 9" diameter sprocket instead. This gave me a 69.09:1 reduction to crank - 14.5 pedal RPM per 1000 engine RPM. Now my pedal redline is the same as engine redline, and I can climb hills much more effectively.

For your setup, I'd recommend at least 50:1 reduction to crank. That's 20 RPM per 1000 engine - you'd be pedaling really fast at 5K engine, but you'd retain combined power to tackle hills easily and accelerate off the line quickly.
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
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But they do show up at the races as sponsor and racers! It's hard to fulfill orders when the suppliers don't supply amigo....
That's no excuse for lack of communication towards people waiting for their stuff. Not the first time they've had this problem, either.

If anything the fact they can show up for events while people are waiting for refunds or any confirmation about their orders is damning evidence of AGK's incompetence as a vendor IMHO. It's easy for people like you and Neil to defend them when they are playing favorites to your benefit.

Anyway, I'm not going to further derail this mess of a thread with talk of a company that has nothing to do with the current subject. :rolleyes:

@ Ooontzler: you might want to make your own thread, as we've already made a mess here lol
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
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Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
That's no excuse for lack of communication towards people waiting for their stuff. Not the first time they've had this problem, either.

If anything the fact they can show up for events while people are waiting for refunds or any confirmation about their orders is damning evidence of AGK's incompetence as a vendor IMHO. It's easy for people like you and Neil to defend them when they are playing favorites to your benefit.

Anyway, I'm not going to further derail this mess of a thread with talk of a company that has nothing to do with the current subject. :rolleyes:

@ Ooontzler: you might want to make your own thread, as we've already made a mess here lol
Dude, you have NO idea....just your speculation as usual. We'll see YOU at the race this weekend???

You're the one that popped off about AGK.....thread messer upper :D
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
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el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
Dude, you have NO idea
I have a much better idea than you think ;)

....just your speculation as usual.
Now it's you who has NO idea rotfl

We'll see YOU at the race this weekend???
I have better things to do than race bicycles with utility motors on them! :D

You're the one that popped off about AGK.....thread messer upper :D
Actually it was Neil that brought em up, I made a quip based on their business practices of horrible communication, you came swinging in on their scrote like a guy who catches freebies. Nothing's changed but your ego.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
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38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
I have a much better idea than you think ;)



Now it's you who has NO idea rotfl



I have better things to do than race bicycles with utility motors on them! :D



Actually it was Neil that brought em up, I made a quip based on their business practices of horrible communication, you came swinging in on their scrote like a guy who catches freebies. Nothing's changed but your ego.
Like I said....

Ego? Really? I'm certainly not the one who knows everything about everything like you oh wise one. I've brought a very special beer to every race to share with you and you've not made it to a single race yet. You don't need an excuse, we understand.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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[QUOTE="The Aleman]

I have better things to do than race bicycles with utility motors on them! :D[/QUOTE]
That's what they all say .......:D

Like posting and chatting about bicycles with utility motors on them?
Yep, that is much better!

Awesome to see you back on the forum after such a long sentence away.
Welcome back. :)
 
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The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
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Like I said....

Ego? Really? I'm certainly not the one who knows everything about everything like you oh wise one.
Your ego has turned you into an annoying person, IMHO. I haven't even liked you since last year. Seriously.

I know what I know. I've never claimed to know more than that. You don't know the extent of anything I know.
Any claim that you do is ego-led ultracrepidarianism on your part. I'm simply an observant person with an eidetic memory and opinions.

I've brought a very special beer to every race to share with you and you've not made it to a single race yet. You don't need an excuse, we understand.
Not like it went to waste. And who appointed you spokesperson? Oh, there's that ego again. :rolleyes:

I have nothing whatsoever to say to you anymore.

Like posting and chatting about bicycles with utility motors on them?
Yep, that is much better!
Yeah, like many here I got into this thing for the cheap transportation aspect of it. I hate to see people waste money, so I try to help.

It's my humble opinion that going fast (30+) on these things is stupid. Cruising down the road at 20-29 is my thing! Racing aint for me.

Not knocking people who like to race on the track. I greatly respect you for giving those MaBers an avenue to do it, Neil.

Awesome to see you back on the forum after such a long sentence away.
Welcome back. :)
Thanks. Figured this place could do without my molasses-covered 2 cents for a while. Life's keeping me busy, I may take another break from here soon!

/my posting in this thread
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
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38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Your ego has turned you into an annoying person, IMHO. I haven't even liked you since last year. Seriously.
Well then, nice not knowing you or ever meeting you I guess. You can sure dish it out, but you don't wear it well at all! Your kb must be covered in dung cuz your fingers are controlled by your brain.

Not like it went to waste. And who appointed you spokesperson?
I'm glad I didn't waste it on you......we share and help each other out at the races, unlike you? Appointed what???? Spokes person? I'm shy just like you.

I have nothing whatsoever to say to you anymore.
Thank you......likewise. You missed some great racing.......again :eek:

Take care old friend?


It's my humble opinion that going fast (30+) on these things is stupid. Cruising down the road at 20-29 is my thing! Racing aint for me.

Not knocking people who like to race on the track. I greatly respect you for giving those MaBers an avenue to do it, Neil.



Thanks. Figured this place could do without my molasses-covered 2 cents for a while. Life's keeping me busy, I may take another break from here soon!

/my posting in this thread
dnut

EDIT: btw......happy birthday yoda!
 
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mike_ric

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May 4, 2011
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Virginia
Wow, now that is a sweet ride! So a Q-matic/jackshaft shifting kit it is possible, just bloody difficult laff

The top jackshaft mount fastener that holds it to the frame is very clever - having all that clearance between the seat tube and the rear wheel is essential, as I'm coming to discover. I don't think the current frame I have (older Trek 6800:confused:) has sufficient clearance - the more I research and investigate other bike frames, the more I'm thinking that no frame has the dimensions necessary to mount the engine + Q-matic in the frame and then have the jackshaft mount mated to the seat tube like normal - the QM is just to dang long, and no matter what it's going to be impossible to get the cluch and jackshaft sprockets to line up. Suspending the jackshaft out from the frame like that might just be the ticket - somehow securing it in place so it doesn't move/rattle around is another story. This frame might not be the ideal candidate after all...

If only tomorrow wasn't Monday... have to work, can't spend the day in the garage!

Thanks for all the input guys, this is super helpful!
Hi Guys,

Terry Blow posted pictures of my Slater build. I've finally finished it after three years. I'll post up some more pics and soon a video. It's finally running and awesome! (Hi Terry!)

Mike
 

knightscape

Member
Jul 29, 2013
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Maine
What exhaust have you got on that? Looks bigger than the phantom and on the other side from where a phantom goes. How's it do on noise? Bike looks great, BTW.
 

mike_ric

New Member
May 4, 2011
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Virginia
Thanks guys it's really good to get it streeted after three years. I haven't spent the whole three years working on it, I had to put it away after some frustrating moments or else it would have ended up in a dumpster. Thankfully that didn't happen.

Terry Blow built that pipe for me way back in 2011. For final assembly my buddies had to cut and reweld the piece that bolts to the cylinder to get the precisely proper angle. I love that pipe, it looks and sounds fantastic. I stuffed it with motorcycle muffler fiberglass and it sounds great. I also added an inner pipe with holes cross-drilled through it that was welded to the endcap. I'll get a video up soon so you can hear it.

I have no welding experience or tools. My buddies were of GREAT assistance in this area, especially in how to mount the jackshaft to move the drive to the right-hand side. Notice how they welded the aluminum stock directly to the clutch housing. There is no bracket at all on the seat tube. thus that tube's finish isn't destroyed. That design was problematic though until I figured out those two bolts that mount up behind the seat. I walked through the auto parts one day looking for inspiration and found an auto hood pin kit. Those bolts are from that kit and they worked perfectly. Before the bolts the whole engine assembly rocked back and forth as the clutch engaged. After the bolts it's rock-solid. Plus the bolts make tensioning the chain a breeze.

The chain tensioner on the original pic was really necessary because the original bicycle chains stretched excessively on every ride causing the final drive chain to jump off the cog, and the other chain to kind of surge. I replaced those bike chains with the gold DID high performance chains you see in these latest photos. It's a 420 chain made for 50cc motocross bikes. After the initial break-in they have not stretched at all, so I removed the tensioner. Due to the wider width of them I had to increase the gap between the two front chainrings using longer stainless bolts and many washers. If I didn't do this the chains rubbed.

I can cruise all day long at 35 mph in 4th gear with good performance or 5th as an overdrive with limited hill climbing capability. 1st gear is a great hill climbing gear. I replaced the original rear 18 tooth cog with a 23 tooth and this REALLY helped. Before that swap first gear was too tall, and 5th gear was unachievable. I recommend anybody with this setup to switch to the 23 tooth.

I don't know my mpg yet, I still need to run through this one year old gas and replace with a small measured amount. I have about 60 problem free miles on the latest configuration.

I say I'm done, but these kind of projects are never done. I actually need to put a graphic on that clutch cover.

Mike
 

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