Thanks Todd, I think Neil gave me this link from you before......that's a really good deal on that set-up, might just do that.
Felt Cruiser Build......not for cruising
- Thread starter scotto-
- Start date
I agree with thud on these hydraulic brake units. We have used a couple different hydraulic brake units from this company on go karts and motorized bicycles. My sons first race bike had the hydraulic brake unit listed above. For the bike he raced at Grange I used a bicycle hydraulic front brake. He hated the bicycle front brake and told me he needs the pocket bike brake. I've had the chance recently to ride bikes back to back with both brakes. The pocket bike brakes definitely work much better.
I upgraded our fast bike with a 4 piston bicycle caliper for Grange. At almost $400 it still doesn't work as good as the cheap pit bike brakes. The only down side is the brake line is a little short on these pit bike brakes. Needless to say we will try to upgrade all our race bikes to this pit/pocket bike brake setup.
Still playing with the gearing to see what works best for the race track. I tried a 9.50:1 ratio today and did a run down the street a few times and 5120rpm was getting 54.7mph. on flat ground. And to all the people that keep asking me if this bike is as mean as it looks?.......absolutely! Ride it and you will see for yourself.
scotto i was wondering how much oil you are running in your hf212 engine? my engine is mounted at a similar angle. the manufacturer says 1/2 quart iwas wondering if you used this amount or maybe afew ounces more. i would appreciate your advice.
glenn
glenn
Hey Glenn, I'm running 1/2 liter and changing it every 10hrs. So just over 1/2 quart.scotto i was wondering how much oil you are running in your hf212 engine? my engine is mounted at a similar angle. the manufacturer says 1/2 quart iwas wondering if you used this amount or maybe afew ounces more. i would appreciate your advice.
glenn
scotto-
damn bro, i have seen alot of gas bikes, and i mean ALOT oh them. and that is by far the most awesome build i have ever seen in my short 21 years of life lol, i do recommend an alternator/Head/Tail lights, but assuming since it is a race bike you won't be riding it at night (just food for thought) 
sweet bike scotto. I plan on doing a high hp build in the near future
where did you get the sprocket, the rear hub, and flange that threads directly on the hub for the sprocket? Wouldn't the flange come off(un-thread0 as soon as you use the brakes? Thanks
where did you get the sprocket, the rear hub, and flange that threads directly on the hub for the sprocket? Wouldn't the flange come off(un-thread0 as soon as you use the brakes? Thanks
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Thanks!..........the seat post is from a member on this forum, Kip Harley, a link to his post: http://motorbicycling.com/f23/laid-back-seat-post-33227.htmlMost beautiful bike I've ever seen! (I'm a speed demon
Where did you get the seat post?
Thanks mwm, the sprocket came from AGK : affordablegokarts: MOTORIZED BIKES PARTS
The hub and flange are parts of the Grubee HD rear axle set.....there is a lock ring that keeps the flange from unthreading when the brakes are applied.
Some pics of Slant on Christmas Day:
This build was a Birthday and Christmas present to myself......what more could I ask for? I build what I wanted, how I wanted it and am more than happy how it turned out. This is a pretty serious race machine and was designed and intended for that specific use. Not a toy by any means and is safe if used by those with the expirience and knowledge of this caliber of motorized bicycle and should just be used by such only. This is not a disclaimer.......just sound advice!
So Scotto, what happened to your CVT set up on the last San Diego ride?
I read on that thread that your clutch would not disengage? Can you explain this? I am running a Comet-like CVT with a belt going to the back wheel, and I would like to gain more knowledge of how these systems might break down for future reference.
Thanks in advance,
Gilbert
I read on that thread that your clutch would not disengage? Can you explain this? I am running a Comet-like CVT with a belt going to the back wheel, and I would like to gain more knowledge of how these systems might break down for future reference.
Thanks in advance,
Gilbert
Thanks scotto. I'm assuming the lock ring threads on too? (like double nutting a bolt)
Can't help but wondering, do you think a disk brake mounted sprocket would have been strong enough? what about a top hat adapter? Anybody know how felt cruisers compair with huffy and schwinn cruisers? (dimention wise)
Thats good advice, I worked on cars, bicycles, and motorcycles for years, plan on being an automotive mechanic for the rest of my life(no sence in changing now). Problem is I'm just now getting into aftermarket bike parts. Still learning about all the parts that are out there and their limits.
Can't help but wondering, do you think a disk brake mounted sprocket would have been strong enough? what about a top hat adapter? Anybody know how felt cruisers compair with huffy and schwinn cruisers? (dimention wise)
Thats good advice, I worked on cars, bicycles, and motorcycles for years, plan on being an automotive mechanic for the rest of my life(no sence in changing now). Problem is I'm just now getting into aftermarket bike parts. Still learning about all the parts that are out there and their limits.
Yes Gil, I broke one of the two springs in the clutch (the drive unit). I had a spare spring with me but didn't bother to troubleshoot 30miles into the ride. It snapped at the end where it hooks to the other ebd of itself, a garter spring so to speak. The weights separated inside and bound up in an engaged state. A very simple fix.
The sprocket mounted to a Shimano rear disc-brake hub seems to work fine on AGK's 6.5 powerhouse that they race, I think a TopHat would work ok if ya got room for everything (135mm spacing at least). One good reason I mounted my disc on the jackshaft was the only place I had room to. I think my dropout spacing is 130mm......everything fits nice with little room to spare.Thanks scotto. I'm assuming the lock ring threads on too? (like double nutting a bolt)
Can't help but wondering, do you think a disk brake mounted sprocket would have been strong enough? what about a top hat adapter? Anybody know how felt cruisers compair with huffy and schwinn cruisers? (dimention wise)
Thats good advice, I worked on cars, bicycles, and motorcycles for years, plan on being an automotive mechanic for the rest of my life(no sence in changing now). Problem is I'm just now getting into aftermarket bike parts. Still learning about all the parts that are out there and their limits.
My Felt, engine compartment wise, is larger than any late model Huffy's or Schwinns.......it also has the design I wanted and is fairly well built (nice welds). It's holding up very well so far. The bike weighs about 100lbs........it aint light.
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A few recent pics of a new exhaust bracket and some gearing changes.......
no that's not a rag joint......never was
count the teeth......
This bike is more than ready to race again......are you?
no that's not a rag joint......never was
count the teeth......
This bike is more than ready to race again......are you?
I finally got around to replacing the stock cylinder head and crankcase bolts with AGK's HD cylinder studs and crankcase bolts.
I was really glad to be able to do this without having to remove the engine from the bike. This is a really big plus for doing valve adjustments or having to remove the cylinder head and this engine is a very tight fit in this frame.
I was really glad to be able to do this without having to remove the engine from the bike. This is a really big plus for doing valve adjustments or having to remove the cylinder head and this engine is a very tight fit in this frame.
A little update on the beast.......exhaust is tuned for racing, re-vamped the engine mount up front and some gearing refinements. This bike is ready to race, is your's?
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Scotto...you better be on your game cause the Wolf Pack has got some **** that's gona take you down....All I can say is ICE-MAN & SENIOR
i noticed some fraying on the ends of your exhaust header wrap in a couple of the pics, i gotta easy fix for that.
superglue.
you can make a 1/4" line of superglue across the wrap where you're gonna cut it, then use some old scissors and cut it while it's still wet. wait a minute for it to dry, and it doesn't unravel.
see ya at the track!
superglue.
you can make a 1/4" line of superglue across the wrap where you're gonna cut it, then use some old scissors and cut it while it's still wet. wait a minute for it to dry, and it doesn't unravel.
see ya at the track!
