Unless you fancy a Husqvarna: http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/uploadedImages/articles/issues/2012-05-01/Husqvarna 500.jpg
Excelsior V Twin build
- Thread starter DareDevil
- Start date
Hi Ludwig II.....Those Imperials are a bit to late model wise....I was more into a 1920-25 era.....I have a pic of a 350cc but there were also 500cc V twins J.A.P engine also...its only a thought ..if a 350 J.A.P single came along I would consider it too...... I also like 1900's Pope bikes as well.....DD
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DD have you ever heard of a Howard V twin made in Australia in late 30's and durring WWII 80 cubic inches and if you have what is their abundancy over there ??
You mentioned that you would do another build maybe that might be a consideration, saw one on You Tube today and it was a monster! couple other engines I saw and liked were the Husquvarna V twin and the Royal Enfield 700 V twin, I will say the Royal Enfield had a really wicked sound.like a roar from the belly of a beast.
You mentioned that you would do another build maybe that might be a consideration, saw one on You Tube today and it was a monster! couple other engines I saw and liked were the Husquvarna V twin and the Royal Enfield 700 V twin, I will say the Royal Enfield had a really wicked sound.like a roar from the belly of a beast.
Hi ... Have been messing with the gas tank....have given it the methylated spirit test along the seam running along the outside of the tank..water is OK but gas is a solvent and will find a leak before water would ever seep through.....only had one weep..thats fixed...that leads me to the back of the tank to be welded in.....have sized it so it fits inside the outer skin so when I weld it ..it will melt the outer skin into the back skin...along the seam and give it a good seal....this will have a fair bit of vibration from the engine as it is a solid mount into the frame...have thought about using rubber grommets where the tank mounts attach to the frame....have to take a trip down to the rubber store and see if the have a grommet with a sleeve in the center.....still for the amount of time this bike will be used it probally doesn't matter....The tank has two baffles in it to stop the gas from sloshing around...these are also internal braces to make the tank rigid....drilled some hole in the back sheet metal so I can weld the braces when its welded up.....This is a sit down job at the bench as I have to weld sections slowly not the distort the tank...it has large flat area's and they will distort if it gets to much heat...probally run some low pressure compressed air into the tank to keep it cool while welding...DD
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Hi Ludwig II....The side valve J.A.P V twin I had was off a Howard.....there was was a pl ether of them here after the war...Farmers didnt have tractors but would use the Howard rotary hoes for tilling the fields...thats why there are so many models... singles and twins..there was Howard 8 V twin air cooled and a Howard 12 V twin water cooled...there are still a few of them around....collectors have them stashed under their benchs...they have a weird camshaft which is ground on an angle....magneto on one side..oil pump an the other...I dont think I would be using one...just would be fun engine for me to start up in the yard....some of the early Howard's had J.A.P ..engines and thats what I had....The Enfield motor would be great but the late model ones on you tube are Hybrids made out of 500cc barrels and heads......and the rest of it is hand made....Big job......DD
Here is some eye candy for ya, I sure would be interested in a Howard Single cylinder
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Hi .. Thanks truckd....Have you been to his web site and read the bio on how he made all the patterns....and how many cases he cast before any we good for machining... Howard used a lot of different sourse's for their engines...probally 5-6 different brands...DD
I have not been to his web site, just saw the pic's and read some light article about the performance of the engine, as far as the Howard I've just began to do research on the engine seems like a real work horse and for what we do it looks applicable, now I haven't seen or heard of the Howard single until you mentioned it, so I'll do some research on that as well, I'm digg'n those single cylinder engines and especially the single Indians.
My Mom & Dad are on a cross country trip from So Calif to Indiana( about 2000 + miles) so I've got him on the look out for a single Indian, most of the farmers used them for pumps in arrogating fields or draining after a heavy rain fall, back east they are more previlant even these days farmers still use em, so we'll see?
My Mom & Dad are on a cross country trip from So Calif to Indiana( about 2000 + miles) so I've got him on the look out for a single Indian, most of the farmers used them for pumps in arrogating fields or draining after a heavy rain fall, back east they are more previlant even these days farmers still use em, so we'll see?
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I don't know if they ever reached that end of the old Empire, but the Opperman Motocart used a 636 sidevalve douglas single. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5497845840_5eaf06056f.jpg
Added to that there were things like Allem Motor Scythes, most used a 150 Villiers: http://informedfarmers.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/ol-philip_a.jpg Dennis mowers as well, they used an unspecified (not had time to delve into it much) Blackburne single, folowed by their own 600cc design.
One thing which is post WW2 British is any Teagle product. They made various agricultural devices, and for a long period made their own 50cc 2 stroke and 125 4 strokes, and these were actually, from what I can gather, far better engineered than the motorcycle industry's offering.
Added to that there were things like Allem Motor Scythes, most used a 150 Villiers: http://informedfarmers.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/ol-philip_a.jpg Dennis mowers as well, they used an unspecified (not had time to delve into it much) Blackburne single, folowed by their own 600cc design.
One thing which is post WW2 British is any Teagle product. They made various agricultural devices, and for a long period made their own 50cc 2 stroke and 125 4 strokes, and these were actually, from what I can gather, far better engineered than the motorcycle industry's offering.
dd, thanks for the write up on the throttle linkages. It makes a little more sense to me now. The only thing I don't understand is how the geometry of the linkages is not effected when you turn the bars. Anyway I think I will just wait for you to post your video, I am more of a visual person when it comes to things like this.
Hi Lurker...Yeeer..I couldn't get my head around it either until I built it and had it mounted on the frame...but its quite simple when its all together....its where the ball joints rotate between the handle bar cam and lower rocker arms....might be a few weeks before I get a video up as I will have to borrow a camcorder from my son.....Im a visual person as well....DD
Hi .. Have got the rear wheel spokes back from a wheel builder who resized them as they were 5mm to long or didnt have enough thread on them....using the Honda CL rear hub and a 21" rim is an odd bod size in spoke Length 220mm is to long...210..to short ...couldnt buy the correct size 215mm so I had to get the 220mm resized...theres only a couple of people here that have the spoke threading machines and mine were 4mm diameter... so I had to find a guy that did metric threading..only one I could find in this state..
You just cant run a thread die down a spoke to correct the lenght....when a spoke threading machine cuts the thread it actually squeeze the thread in tooled rollers and raises it ..where a thread die cuts metal off the spoke and then the nipple will just skid over the top of the thread.....tried that!!!!!.....jobs done and wheel is trued up ready to go....once you have the wheel true....you need to do the "DING" test...all the spokes should sound the same when you rotate the wheel and tap each spoke..adjust each spoke till is sounds the same.....it shouldn't change the true of the wheel...DD
You just cant run a thread die down a spoke to correct the lenght....when a spoke threading machine cuts the thread it actually squeeze the thread in tooled rollers and raises it ..where a thread die cuts metal off the spoke and then the nipple will just skid over the top of the thread.....tried that!!!!!.....jobs done and wheel is trued up ready to go....once you have the wheel true....you need to do the "DING" test...all the spokes should sound the same when you rotate the wheel and tap each spoke..adjust each spoke till is sounds the same.....it shouldn't change the true of the wheel...DD
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Twang! Twang! Twang!! I know that sound well,Looks Good! Nice and Shiney spokes make a wheel look so good go'n down the road
Hi .. Been playing with the exhaust pipes to day....I was fortunate enough to acquire a set of damaged XV 250 pipes from a bike breaker recently when I was looking for a rear sprocket.....he gave them to me as they were going to be scraped....they had the exhaust flanges which I had to relinquish when I brought the motor....as I didnt want the exhaust pipe setup at the time and he wanted extra money for it....I will post a description what will fit.. as the front and rear flanges are different ..pipes are different ..... I will have to machine one of the flanges a little bigger to fit one of the pipe's....the pics show where they should be sitting once the pipe flanges are welded in place.....DD
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I like the front,AHhhh don't know what to say about the rear except it's long and kinda straight, I'm sure you'll figure it out
Hi .. Back again....The rear exhaust flange on a XV250 engine is smaller in the bore than the front....the front has a 1 3/4" pipe right up to the cylinder head..it has a reducing flange welded to it to reduce the size down to the same size as the exhaust port...the rear pipe is about 1 1/4" in diameter and is not chromed...it just runs straight down to the stock muffler on the original bike....the rear chrome pipe is a dummy and is bolted to the frame on the XV250 so it looks like the real thing !!!!....so I have set it up so it has the full 1 3/4" chrome pipes on the front and the rear cylinder...how I have done this is ...the rear dummy pipe is now fitted to the front cylinder .... I have made an adapter flange which looks like a large stepped washer and welded it to the end of the dummy pipe...have machined out the rear flange to 1 13/16" so it will fit over the pipe and slide up to the front cylinder exhaust port..and the original front pipe now bolts up on the rear cylinder .. all looks good...I will take more pic's when all is finished both on and off the bike....I will do the final length cut off once its all together ..dont want them to short and burning my legs.....I machined out the center of the flange with an adjustable boring tool...DD
