DIY Shift Kit Project--'The Shifty Beast'

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5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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16V & BarelyAwake,
Thanks for the input. I'll probably end up running the derailleur setup until chain or derailleur problems begins to occur. In the meantime, I'll be hunting for a good deal on a Sturmey. Now that I've tasted the sweet Motorbicycling Bliss of multi gearing, I'm sold.
-Low-
On shift kits, I normally use only 3 or 4 gears out of my 8-speed cassette. 2nd (38.18:1), 4th, 6th and 7th. 8th gear sometimes on the flats. Forget about powershifting. Apply power from a stop, release throttle, shift, pedal for 2 seconds, reapply throttle. Repeat procedure thru the gears.

Upon coming to a stop, don't forget to release throttle, downshift, pedal, downshift, pedal, downshift, pedal, then come to a stop.
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
I took the bike out for a ride this evening to see if the changes I made to the driveline worked. I lubed up the secondary chain with some White Lightning wax lube before heading out.
I had no problems with the chains or the shifting. I did keep it out of 1st gear, just using 2nd thru 6th.
When I'm slowing down to make a stop, I'll thumb shift back up the rear cassette and lightly tap the throttle just enough to turn the front chainring allowing the rear cassette to spin and make the shifts, but still freewheeling. I havent needed to pedal the new Shifty Beast.
-Lowracer-
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
Went out again today for a short ride and took the advise of 5-7 about shifting & using less gears.
I start out in 2nd gear, then once it revs up, I'll double click into 4th gear, then once again rev it up & then into 5th gear.
This seems to be perfect for 'just cruising'.
If I have a 'need for speed', I can change my shifting pattern & go thru each gear starting from 1st.
No chain issues today & looking to buy some more White Lightning lube.
-Lowracer-
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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When you get used to the shifting, it certainly feels like a small-displacement motorcycle.
xct2
I usually pedal before shifting for self-assurance. You might not really need to blip the throttle before shifting. It seems like my chainring sprockets are continuously moving, all the way to a complete stop.
 

lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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5-7,
Yeah it really does ride like a small engine dirtbike. I had a Suzuki RM80 as a kid and this Beasty definitely reminds me of it. I'm enjoying the ride. Just received some new foam grips today that I'm planning to install (where's that hairspray when you need it) and possibly swapping saddles back to the HughJass super-foam, supersized couch I had on there (looks ugly, but more comfy than my bed)...lol
-Lowracer-
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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5-7,
I just had a crazy idea.
Since we are double shifting to use ~3 gears on the 9 speed cassette:
1- break the cassette & mount those 3 gears slightly further apart using single speed conversion spacers.
2- run a bmx #410 chain (fits inside a rear derailleur & doesnt need to move up/down that much)
3- adjust the rear derailleur set screws to only allow movement to those 3 gears.
4- use a bar end (barcon) shifter set on friction mode mounted on a Pauls Thumbie.
Yeah its nice having lots of gears to choose from depending on the terrain, but here where I live (flat, sea level, lowcountry) 3 gears would work well.
-Lowracer-
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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Lowracer, would it work if you simply modify the cassette to mount the 3 or 4 gears you favor? I like 1st-2nd-maybe 5th-7th and 8th? If I had to, I'd choose 1st-5th-7th and use standard 8-speed chain.
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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I'm curious if anyone has ever attempted shifting a 410 chain?
They are designed to run a straight shot, but moving to cover 3 or so gears isn't too much deviation. The 410 chains are tough. I run them on both my single speed road bikes & 3 motorized scooters I built. The 8 speed & 9 speed chains are a bit wimpy, but I dont have many motorized miles on my 9 speed chain to draw conclusions yet. Under pedal power, I've only had two chain failures (an 8spd & a 9spd) both while mountain biking.
I'll probably just leave well enough alone and keep the 9 spd cassette intact and continue using the Shimano rapidfire shifter that came with the bike for as long as my chain doesn't fly off and get snagged again. Since I shortened the chain, removed the damaged link, installed the 'inner chainring guard' and lubed the chain with White Lightning, I havent experienced another episode of 'The Flying Chainsuck'.
-Lowracer-
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
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You can buy high-quality bicycle chain online. Some of them are quite pricey but it might be worth it if it's more reliable. I've never engine powered bike chain but it lasts much better in severe pedal use so it should help durability with your application.
 

16v4nrbrgr

Active Member
Mar 17, 2012
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North Bay
Yeah I got a Wippermann to try first since it has had good reviews, it pivots like butter with that dry lube and they are supposed to last 3000 pedal miles vs 1500 for the other brands, things change every year though.
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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16V,
The 9 spd chain & cassette I got on there are new (I think both are SRAM). If or when the chain fails, I'll either just replace it, or try out my idea for using #410 chain w/only 3 gears.
Since I'm not using my motorized bicycle for work purposes anymore, it isn't seeing many miles of usage and may never wear out a chain. My pedal only road bikes are getting all the miles for exercise purposes...probably 250-300 miles/week.
I lost 25 lbs and feel great...
-Low-
 

16v4nrbrgr

Active Member
Mar 17, 2012
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I think as long as you don't accelerate really hard the chain will last just as long as it would under pedal power because it is under constant tension rather than high torque peaks from pedal pulses. I've run tiny #25h chain on my emotard that has 8 hp and like 16 lb ft at 200 rpm and it's only thrown a quick link once. Chains usually stretch quite a bit, but the failures are usually at the removable link I've found, or a binding link in the case of crappy chain. I chose the expensive Wippermann reluctantly, after looking at reviews and the actual design of the chain, it fits the most metal in between the cogs, and the link plates are flat, so they won't stretch out flat from tension like a SRAM or Shimano might.

The cool thing I like about having a derailleur setup with a dry lubed chain is that its really easy and clean to remove and inspect the chain, so I'm just gonna make it a regular checklist item. My other bikes with bigger chains covered with Tri-flow and dirt get less chain attention, but they're running 410H or 415H, which still stretches significantly but are less prone to bound links since they're just so big.
 
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lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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I decided to cut off a header tube from one of the three shorty poo-poo pipes I bought awhile ago to change to an expansion chamber pipe for this bikes Tanaka 47r engine. It aint pretty cause I dont weld, but it works and doesnt leak. I wrapped the hot parts with header wrap to keep from getting burned again but ran out of wrap and had to make due with what I had. I took it for a test spin and it does make a noticeable difference in both increased igh rpm power output and noise reduction (old pipe exhaust exit was right in front of me and now its exits behind me).
Cheers
-lowracer-
 

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lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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Here are a few more pics of the revised exhaust. I took it out for a blast today & got as aero as I could with the fuel tank getting in the way. The expansion chamber definitely has given this Beast a nice boost. Not sue what the top speed was but it felt every bit as fast as the old pocketbike Cag2 powered v-belt drive front driven beast and that bike did 53 mph. Now I'm thinking of going with a larger diameter straight header pipe directly off the engine attached to the expansion chamber in its current location. Should be good for a bit more rpms since it wont have as many twisty turns, internal pipe risers at the connection points, but mainly having a larger hole to flow thru?
I got some cut frame tubes laying around that might just be the right ID...
-Low-
 

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lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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Not wanting to leave well enough alone, I went to Lowes today looking for some ceiling fan drop pipe. It fits the type of flex pipe I have to connect the expansion chamber to the engine header. They had an 18" pipe on sale for $1.00 (reg. $9.99) so I bought 2.
Instead of all the twisty's I had and the many connections, I replaced all that with a single slightly cut down (probably 14") straight pipe. I just completed the changes but its late & dark, so I wont test it out till tomorrow after work, but I'm expecting good things. If the engine/pipe sings, I'll leave it alone...if not, I'll cut some length out of it a little at a time till its perfect. I made good use of an old threadless stem that had a cracked faceplate (probably by overtightening the nuts unevenly). It is now attached firmly to the seatpost sideways & serves well as a rear muffler hanger. The next hanger forward is the same I had done before. The front is also supported by another hanger w/spring.
-Low-
 

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lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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I took it out for a quick test spin today after work. It felt like the pipe/engine responded better in its previous configuration (shorter and twisty). I'll experiment with length (cut off a bit more pipe to better resemble the length of the last version and see how that performs. If it still suffers, I'll go back to the twisty one.
-Low-
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
I cut it down some more (a few inches) and remounted it.
Got a quick test spin this evening on it and definitely more responsive.
I'm probably going to leave it like this for awhile unless that wild hare grows again...lol
-Lowracer-