Dang clutch cable snapped!

Mozenrath

New Member
I have definitely learned my lesson: Never buy a kit! If I ever build another MB, I'm definitely going to buy all the parts separately.

Anyway, just like the title. I've been riding my bike just fine, but the one day I want to ride it to meet my girlfriend at Wendy's, SNAP! The clutch cable broke halfway, so the only way to get my bike to start from a stop was to peddle as hard as I could! Totally defeats the purpose of having a peddle-assisted MB.

I've read elsewhere that people have replaced their clutch cable with deep sea fishing line. Does anyone know of exactly what kind/brand of fishing line works best? Or is there a better solution than fishing line?

Well, at least this will be a good time for me to build a clutch pulley. I guess there's a silver lining to this situation. I'm just angry because it seems like if it's not one problem, it's another with this kit. Nearly every part is worthless junk. I spent way more money than I anticipated.

:-||
 
I replaced my clutch cable with three speed shifter cable. I also replaced the standard cable housing with S.I.S. derailleur housing. It made a big difference on how well the clutch responded. With SIS housing there is no "give" to the system and it seems to work better that way.

Something I made sure of was the length of the housing, if the cable is "just right" that will also make things work better.

mike
 
Be sure to lube your cables regularly, not only will this help extend the life of them it makes them easier to operate. Since 2004 I have yet to break a clutch cable.
 
Forget the fishing line idea. It won't work unless you're talking about wire leader.
Use cable designed and made for bike brakes and take the advice offered by Dave and retromike above. Fishing line?????
Tom
 
I use a heavy duty Odyssey brand bicycle brake cable. Teflon lined housing and teflon coated inner cable. Tough enough to get the job done well and super smooth action.
About $3.00 at most LBS's.
 
I paid 3.50 for a new clutch cable at the LBS. Just go in and ask for a brake cable. They are a standard end that fits out handles.
 
Bell brake cable repair kit from wal-mart is $4.99, comes with multiple cables that can be cut to your desired length
 
I guess I got my throttle cable and clutch cable mixed up. Brake cables do work, but SIS housing is still better.

mike
 
Thanks to every one of you for your suggestions! I'm hoping that this is going to be one of the last things I'll have to replace for a while, though somehow I doubt it.
 
I went against my better judgment and got the Bell brake cable repair bundle from Wal-mart. It worked nicely, but I was not able to recover the little bolt and clip that keeps the cable attached to the clutch arm. Does anyone know of a way to replace it with a hardware store part or where I can get a new one? I don't want to pay $8 shipping just to get one measly part from thatsdax.com.
 
Hi guys, new to forum, first post (I will get to the intro post as soon as I get this damn thing reliable).
OK so after a brief search I think this is the best post to ask on.
I have had major headaches getting my 66cc kit installed on my Trek 7200, the frame tubing is too large for any of the kits mountings. Anyway that's not my issue here today. My issue is that the clutch cable keeps breaking at the point where it meets the actuator lever. It broke the first time and I lost the brass cable clamp, after some serious thought and research, I shortened the cable and got a 1/16" steel cable clamp to work. This worked for about 20 miles (I ride 34 miles a day). I am assuming vibration is shearing through the cable where it meets the clutch arm. I have enough of the original clutch cable to shorten it once more and try a different clamp. The first point of contact where the cable meets the arm is a bit of a sharp bend. Is there anything I can put between the cable and the arm to cushion the cable or will anything I put there be ate through also.
Please help as peddling 17 miles each way to work really sucks :(
Thanks guys!!
Curt
 
Is there anything I can put between the cable and the arm to cushion the cable or will anything I put there be ate through also.
Please help as peddling 17 miles each way to work really sucks :(
Thanks guys!!
Curt

This will route the cable without strain. There are other solutions but I feel that this is the best option. Takes about 80% pull off the clutch handle. As far as your frame, you will need a front mount adapter. There are vendors that have them along with myself.

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Thank you for the quick reply Ron. Interesting redesign! Considering I used to have a lot more tools then I do now I will be ordering one of these as soon as I look through the rest of the goods you have to offer. I'll send ya PM with questions as to not pollute the thread.
Thanks man!!!

Curt
 
Cool, but my issue is after that assembly (or more directly the placement of that assembly). Where it ties to the arm is where it keeps breaking, have to alter the angle of cable entry to the arm, such as the pulley design. :) Cool idea though!!!
 
Cool, but my issue is after that assembly (or more directly the placement of that assembly). Where it ties to the arm is where it keeps breaking, have to alter the angle of cable entry to the arm, such as the pulley design. :) Cool idea though!!!
That clutch arm is splined to the shaft.
Tap it off and put it back on rotated a bit counterclockwise
so that the cable enters it more or less straight on.

This will also make it easier to pull. Also remove the spring behind
the arm as it is not needed and just makes the clutch a harder
pull. Lube your clutch cable.

Also make sure that there are no sharp edges where the cable
goes through the arm.

I have had major headaches getting my 66cc kit installed on my Trek 7200, the frame tubing is too large for any of the kits mountings. Anyway that's not my issue here today.

SickBikeParts.com sells a really good front mount that can be reversed for smaller frames.
Just make sure that you get the right size of the 2 motor mounts
 
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