Cordless Drill Starts
- Thread starter 5-7HEAVEN
- Start date
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Had to do it after installing freewheel and breaking my pull start. It worked over and over, but it chewed up the nut and if I had any throttle, once the engine started it would unscrew the nut. Ended up buying a few spare nuts, without any more problems. Not that practical to rely only on drill start because if you engine dies and you don't have your drill with you, you're screwed.
Thanks for responding, guys.
I wonder if I could use a super long nut, then wire-wrap the bottom part of the long nut to one of the flywheel's fins.
I could weld a small washer onto the nut, at its base. After torquing the nut on, I'd wire-wrap it to a fin. There'd be enough exposed nut for the drill's socket to spin.
I'd want to carry a small cordless screwdriver on my bike.
Thoughts?
I wonder if I could use a super long nut, then wire-wrap the bottom part of the long nut to one of the flywheel's fins.
I could weld a small washer onto the nut, at its base. After torquing the nut on, I'd wire-wrap it to a fin. There'd be enough exposed nut for the drill's socket to spin.
I'd want to carry a small cordless screwdriver on my bike.
Thoughts?
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www.killerrc.com/roduct/power-starter/
It's not a perfect fit. The pull start is made for 54mm/23-29cc engines. The key part is the item which bolts onto the flywheel. That and the driver is all I need.
If necessary, I'll buy one and reverse engineer the thing.
It's not a perfect fit. The pull start is made for 54mm/23-29cc engines. The key part is the item which bolts onto the flywheel. That and the driver is all I need.
If necessary, I'll buy one and reverse engineer the thing.
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This thread:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=61010
And this one:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25237&page=2
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=61010
And this one:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25237&page=2
I bought this drill:
www.walmart.com/ip/Troy-Bilt-49MRBESY66-JumpStart-Cordless-Starter/54999317
It's built like a cordless screwdriver. I'm hoping it'll fit into my bottle cage.
All I need is the attachment which bolts onto the flywheel. My uncle's friend should be able to make 2 of them for me.
www.walmart.com/ip/Troy-Bilt-49MRBESY66-JumpStart-Cordless-Starter/54999317
It's built like a cordless screwdriver. I'm hoping it'll fit into my bottle cage.
All I need is the attachment which bolts onto the flywheel. My uncle's friend should be able to make 2 of them for me.
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wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Hope the jump start feature bumps the power of that 12 Volt drill. It takes every bit of torque from my 18 Volt DeWalt to start my 66 HT.
We'll see. If it doesn't, WalMart should take it back.
Unsure if thlis drill's shaft is long enough to clear the flywheel fins and pull start housing.
Update:
I bought the TROY-BILT cordless starter for $50.03 online. I picked it up from Wal-Mart Mart today.
We'll see if it works on my engines.
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After reading more about Craftsman and Troy-Bilt's JumpStart Technology, I realized the Troy-Bilt starter would probably not work for me.
The snout is too short, in case it needed to clear the pull start housing.
So I returned it at WalMart and bought this driver at Loewe's:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Troy-Bilt-JumpStart-Electric-Engine-Starter/3415794
This driver has a one-way bearing. When the engine starts, the bearing prevents the engine from overdriving the drill and its connecting parts.
I'll use an ordinary 18v cordless drill and carry it on the bike.
Hopefully, I can find one that looks like a long flashlight.
The snout is too short, in case it needed to clear the pull start housing.
So I returned it at WalMart and bought this driver at Loewe's:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Troy-Bilt-JumpStart-Electric-Engine-Starter/3415794
This driver has a one-way bearing. When the engine starts, the bearing prevents the engine from overdriving the drill and its connecting parts.
I'll use an ordinary 18v cordless drill and carry it on the bike.
Hopefully, I can find one that looks like a long flashlight.
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If this wasn't so expensive, I'd buy it quickly:
http://www.killerrc.com/product/power-starter/
It's just a plastic engine cover, which doesn't fit my engines. A tubular guide is pressed onto the cover, The bolt-on starter drive bracket may or may not fit onto my flywheels..
I'd have to mate the guide to my pull start or its housing..
I bought two of these to fab new starter drive brackets:
.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MTD...865414?hash=item4b13827ac6:g:G6AAAOSw4A5YxTeE
http://www.killerrc.com/product/power-starter/
It's just a plastic engine cover, which doesn't fit my engines. A tubular guide is pressed onto the cover, The bolt-on starter drive bracket may or may not fit onto my flywheels..
I'd have to mate the guide to my pull start or its housing..
I bought two of these to fab new starter drive brackets:
.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MTD...865414?hash=item4b13827ac6:g:G6AAAOSw4A5YxTeE
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I hope this works.
If it does, I'll convert my Tanaka-powered Snow Tiger to cordless drill starts.
Sometimes, when police are around or if I have to maneuver slowly around people, I turn my engine off.
This way, I can restart without leaving my seat.
Besides, it's so obvious it's a motorized bicycle, when I have to yank on the pullstart.
I hope this works.
If it does, I'll convert my Tanaka-powered Snow Tiger to cordless drill starts.
Sometimes, when police are around or if I have to maneuver slowly around people, I turn my engine off.
This way, I can restart without leaving my seat.
Besides, it's so obvious it's a motorized bicycle, when I have to yank on the pullstart.
I hope this works.
My wife played the slots during vacation in CA and AZ.
I never played a penny at the casinos.
F it! I ordered this power starter for cordless drill starts:
http://www.killerrc.com/product/power-starter/
I never played a penny at the casinos.
F it! I ordered this power starter for cordless drill starts:
http://www.killerrc.com/product/power-starter/
Dan
Staff
Really cool and like where you guys are going with this!
I have played with this but never got past initial, just using a drill and a purpose made socket.
But was thinking a sprag clutch arrangement. Have the starter above, below, in front or behind depending on the engine and a chain. With a solar panel so as not to rob the engine of any umph. (technical term) With an emergency way to wrap a pull rope. Might be mentioned in one of the very old threads.
A sprag clutch is a one-way freewheel clutch.
It resembles a roller bearing but, instead of cylindrical rollers, non-revolving asymmetric figure-eight shaped sprags are used. When the unit rotates in one direction the rollers slip or free-wheel, but when a torque is applied in the opposite direction, the rollers tilt slightly, producing a wedging action and binding because of friction. The sprags are spring-loaded so that they lock with very little backlash"
source; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch
I have played with this but never got past initial, just using a drill and a purpose made socket.
But was thinking a sprag clutch arrangement. Have the starter above, below, in front or behind depending on the engine and a chain. With a solar panel so as not to rob the engine of any umph. (technical term) With an emergency way to wrap a pull rope. Might be mentioned in one of the very old threads.
A sprag clutch is a one-way freewheel clutch.
It resembles a roller bearing but, instead of cylindrical rollers, non-revolving asymmetric figure-eight shaped sprags are used. When the unit rotates in one direction the rollers slip or free-wheel, but when a torque is applied in the opposite direction, the rollers tilt slightly, producing a wedging action and binding because of friction. The sprags are spring-loaded so that they lock with very little backlash"
source; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch