Starting 2 stroke with electric drill

Mr Turdle

Mr Turdle

New Member
I searched for alternative methods for starting my MB, but didn't find much on the subject. I have a disability which prevents me from doing much pedaling, and find it difficult to start my bike on cold mornings. I almost went with a pull starter, but didn't want to change to a wider crank or arms.
After a little research, I became familiar with one way bearings. Both Sears and Troy Built make an adapter for a drill which fits into various weed eaters and small engines for starting. The problem is that the drive apex is 5 sided. I ended up welding a 14 mm socket to another socket which fit over the 5 sided apex tightly, however the apex turned in the socket under load. I filled the socket with JB weld, and inserted the apex. Next I drilled a 1-1/8" hole in the mag cover to access the nut on the crankshaft for starting. I picked up a rubber hub cap plug (the kind used on semi trucks and trailers), to seal the hole after starting. I should note that these plugs are vented, and if you hold them up to the light you can see a very small hole in the center. They are easy to plug though. Now I can easily start my engine and let it warm up a little before riding.
 

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that is cool!!
functional, and it looks good too.

i like your muffler and front engine mounts, BTW. very clean looking.
 
You can actually just use a drill motor & a socket to start the engine... Just add a lot of red Loctite to the bolt first because it will unthread after the engine starts. ;)
 
Genius! I've been thinking of a pull start, but haven't quite settled on it. Now I'm a bit further lol! Thanks Mr. Turdle, pics are the best, I'd post more myself, but my phone won't allow me to do some things on the forum, like post pics in a thread, they load to the albums as best I can tell, but nowhere else.

Anywho... Excellent idea and a nice bike, very clean looking from what I could see, again I'm stuck with the phone lol. I live a mile from pavement, but run road tires as it's 15 miles to town. Starting Tanglebones in my sandy driveway, after any precipitation, is almost comical, lots of pedaling and cursing. Your idea could help some there, I've just got to apply it properly, as I have neither a cordless drill, nor (constant) electricity.

Unless I can hybridize your idea with something else, I may have to bite the bullet and buy the pull start and wide crank set. In truth, I'll likely do that anyway, many long moons away, got other things to spend extra cash on before the next "Executive Order"!
Thomas Jefferson said: "No free man, shall ever be debarred the use of arms."

Oh how I do ramble...
 
I have twice seen someone strip that nut starting with a drill - you might consider a compression release to use with that.
 
Yes, welcome! I just noticed, Mr. Turdle is one of a few I've seen who managed to use his chain guard! Kudos to you, sir. No amount of modifying would allow me to use the unit provided in my kit, so it's in one of the shop drawers, because throwing away metal is blasphemous!
 
crassius said:
I have twice seen someone strip that nut starting with a drill - you might consider a compression release to use with that.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice sir, as that is something I had not considered. Can you use the compression release to make starting while pedaling easier? If so, this may be a better idea. I assume I would have to change the head to install a release valve?
 
haven't looked at one in a while - used to be one type that was built into a spark plug housing - it screwed into head & plug then screwed into it

others need a hole drilled
 
I believe a member on this forum once used a dual-plug head, with a compression release installed in the second plug hole. Can't remember who though...try the search button, my phone won't let me or I would lol.
 
I modify the Puch head for a second plug or compression release.

If you want the C/R for engine braking, you use the 10mm plug & a standard lever operated motorcycle release like this:

CG%2Bcompression%2Brelease.jpg


If you only want a release for starting, the 10mm hole takes a standard chainsaw compression release like this:
Stihl / Husquvarna decompression valve

Bigger chainsaws are usually equipped with that valve to ease the load on the pull start.
 
Nice work and nice bike. I spin the motors on that but with the plug out and have no issues. I have damaged the nut on my race bike while only being able to start it that way though. The compression release recommended looks great and another one to look at is by Fred from crmachine, he is the creator of the Fred head and has at least one head with a compression release on his site.
 
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Can someone explain to me the logic/methodology of starting with a compression release? Don't you need compression to start the engine? Is it just less pressure? (?)
 
WallHaxx said:
Can someone explain to me the logic/methodology of starting with a compression release? Don't you need compression to start the engine? Is it just less pressure? (?)
Click to expand...

they release just enough compression to let the motor turn more easily

the type that is built into a spark plug holder would probably be best for these if they still make them
 
WallHaxx said:
I found this little wonder while looking for the bearing. I'm wondering if this has the one-way bearing built-in (would make sense, right?) I can't find many details, but seeing as I don't have a drill for this yet, this would be a very wise purchase even without the bearing. Does anyone know if it does?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Troy-Bil...75035&wl11=online&wl12=54999315&wl13=&veh=sem
Click to expand...

The original poster is using it.
I purchased this item a few days ago.
Yes, it DOES have a one-way bearing.
It'd be an unwise purchase if it didn't have the bearing.

Like the OP stated, this JumpStart Bit-Starter does have a five-sided business end.

Unsure why OP didn't just weld this directly to a correctly-sized socket.
 
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