CNS carb working great....

GoldenMotor.com

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
:)
I suppose you shall need to learn how to smooth the slide.
Difficult, but it is possible.
..close enough for a chinagirl!
:)
rc

..other than for an impact driver, I can't think of a hammer ever being required for a chinagirl... I suppose some require a bit more persuasion than others...
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
The only thing that is acceptable to prevent the slide from going all the way down is the idle speed screw. If the slide is binding up before it contacts the idle speed screw, you still have more fixing to do.
 

Richie rocket 72

New Member
Sep 24, 2018
13
1
1
52
I wanted to start a new thread here on the CNS carb, cause most of the threads are about problems, bogging, broken spacers etc. I have been through a couple week crash coarse on the CNS card and just recently got mine running super sweet, so I figured I a CNS carb success thread was in order....
First some background. I got a new Grubee SkyHawk GT-5 66cc kit this spring, it was a fresh kit dated 04-20-2011 with the newest CNS carb (C-32CNS66-EPA). After assembling I had a hard time getting her running, didnt know what to expect, eventually got her fired up after I realized it was going to take a lot of throttle to make her fire. I couldn't get idle unless I held in the throttle, once I had her rolling I could get a pretty good top end speed but never could get her to idle and slow riding was extremely rough.
I did a LOT of reading of forums etc, tried pulling the vent tube etc, I couldn't find the magic bullet to make this thing run. In the end it took a couple adjustments to get it running right. I waited until I went through the first two gallons of break in gas and moved on to my standard mix (32:1) before I bothered digging into tuning the carb cause I know the mix is going to effect everything.
The first problem with the carb was discovered accidentally. I had hopped on the bike and started riding without turning on the fuel. After running a bit the engine started running great all of the sudden, finally could almost get idle and I was getting better pull on the low end of the throttle. I was really happy, then she died... Failing to start her back up I quickly discovered the fuel valve was off. After turning on the fuel valve she started up but was running crappy again, no idle, dead throttle through most of the range etc. Connecting the dots to the fuel supply I turned off the fuel valve again and sure enough she started running sweet again for a short while then died. This behavior was consistently reproducible, so that got me thinking... Must be fuel level problem, so lets look at the float...
I was reluctant to open the carb on the new kit, I figured its new so it must be right. That's a bad assumption about anything to do with these china girl motor kits! When I finally decided to open up the carb I found it was no biggie. I also found that the screws holding the carb together were loose so I can only imagine it was one giant air leak, you should at very least check those screws before you install your new carb. Also, in the process of working on the carb the fuel inlet nipple fell off, I guess it wasn't pressed down far enough at the factory. Now I know where that little bit of fuel was coming from that would crop up every once in a while!
If you have the carb on the bike you should turn off the fuel and try to burn out as much fuel from the line and carb as possible before you remove it. After you remove the carb unscrew that one screw at the bottom of the bowl that has the red gasket behind it, that is the drain screw, the remaining gas will drain from the carb when the screw is out. Next flip the carb upside down and remove the four screws from the bowl and pull it off. You now have the carb opened up and are looking right at the float.
My next post will be about the float....
 

Richie rocket 72

New Member
Sep 24, 2018
13
1
1
52
I have the high-performance CNS Carburetor and I thought the first one was faulty well it was faulty cuz it was leaking gas however I thought it was faulty because it had no air intake screw only the carb adjust the idle screw the second one once again only has the idle screw and it does not have the port on the top side where you plug the hose that comes from the bottom of the carburetor Bowl into the top on the other side it does not have this as well are these carbs knock-offs or defective or if not are you supposed to let that hose just flow freely and leak gas
 

Richie rocket 72

New Member
Sep 24, 2018
13
1
1
52
I wanted to start a new thread here on the CNS carb, cause most of the threads are about problems, bogging, broken spacers etc. I have been through a couple week crash coarse on the CNS card and just recently got mine running super sweet, so I figured I a CNS carb success thread was in order....
First some background. I got a new Grubee SkyHawk GT-5 66cc kit this spring, it was a fresh kit dated 04-20-2011 with the newest CNS carb (C-32CNS66-EPA). After assembling I had a hard time getting her running, didnt know what to expect, eventually got her fired up after I realized it was going to take a lot of throttle to make her fire. I couldn't get idle unless I held in the throttle, once I had her rolling I could get a pretty good top end speed but never could get her to idle and slow riding was extremely rough.
I did a LOT of reading of forums etc, tried pulling the vent tube etc, I couldn't find the magic bullet to make this thing run. In the end it took a couple adjustments to get it running right. I waited until I went through the first two gallons of break in gas and moved on to my standard mix (32:1) before I bothered digging into tuning the carb cause I know the mix is going to effect everything.
The first problem with the carb was discovered accidentally. I had hopped on the bike and started riding without turning on the fuel. After running a bit the engine started running great all of the sudden, finally could almost get idle and I was getting better pull on the low end of the throttle. I was really happy, then she died... Failing to start her back up I quickly discovered the fuel valve was off. After turning on the fuel valve she started up but was running crappy again, no idle, dead throttle through most of the range etc. Connecting the dots to the fuel supply I turned off the fuel valve again and sure enough she started running sweet again for a short while then died. This behavior was consistently reproducible, so that got me thinking... Must be fuel level problem, so lets look at the float...
I was reluctant to open the carb on the new kit, I figured its new so it must be right. That's a bad assumption about anything to do with these china girl motor kits! When I finally decided to open up the carb I found it was no biggie. I also found that the screws holding the carb together were loose so I can only imagine it was one giant air leak, you should at very least check those screws before you install your new carb. Also, in the process of working on the carb the fuel inlet nipple fell off, I guess it wasn't pressed down far enough at the factory. Now I know where that little bit of fuel was coming from that would crop up every once in a while!
If you have the carb on the bike you should turn off the fuel and try to burn out as much fuel from the line and carb as possible before you remove it. After you remove the carb unscrew that one screw at the bottom of the bowl that has the red gasket behind it, that is the drain screw, the remaining gas will drain from the carb when the screw is out. Next flip the carb upside down and remove the four screws from the bowl and pull it off. You now have the carb opened up and are looking right at the float.
My next post will be about the float....
I have a new CNS Carburetor I drilled out the little cover that they had over the air 2 fuel mixture screw I do not know how to use it I adjusted the carburetor to the best of my ability it's running good top and it's bogging a little bit if I adjust the choke that they gave me they are choked which opens up and allows more fuel or whatever are I really don't know what it's for I don't know when to use it and I'm looking for help I thought by my buying all the extra parts that my bike wouldn't run nearly 50 miles an hour however it doesn't I don't even break 34 miles an hour can anyone help me I have a high-performance carburetor CNS I have the expansion chamber a high compression head and I bought the 36 tooth sprocket from what I understand all these extra parts should have made it run double the speed and it is nowhere near that
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,363
2,590
113
66
Newnan,Georgia
The best way to upgrade is to do one thing at a time, the CNS carb has the fuel enrichment barrel that should only be used when starting. The mid range throttle you adjust by moving the clip on the needle, lower the clip to richen, move it up to lean. Wide open is controlled by the size of the main jet. None
of the pipes for sale do that much to increase speed, the best pipe I've found is custom made, a lot of us here have built our own. The sprocket combination depends on a lot of factors, the terrain you ride on, your weight load and how well you have the bike tuned. I once changed from a 44 sprocket to a 41 and slowed down because the rpm's fell out of the power band.