Chain size chart
- Thread starter Greg58
- Start date
crmachineman
New Member
Hi everybody.
As I have been increasing the power of my engine, chain problems are now an issue. The cheap 410 chain you get with the kits does not hold up if your engine is producing a lot of power. I will look into the recommendation of #41 chain. Thanks for that!
I have a little pertinent information about using 415H chain;
After receiving the 415H chain (different from 415), I noticed it would climb up the small drive sprocket on the engine. Looking closely at what was happening, I realized the plates are larger than the 415 chain, and prevented the chain from fully seating into the small sprocket. I was forced to grind the plates so it wouldn't interfere with meshing with the small drive sprocket. here's a picture of what I did. I noticed this 415H chain has very thick plates as well. Quite a rugged looking chain... we will see how long it will last.
-Fred
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crmachineman
New Member
Thanks for the size chart Bike guy Joe! I like this chart the best because it has a drawing of the chain with dimensions. I found this chart to be not confusing at all. AT LAST, I can compare chains! Now, I'm thinking of three different sizes; which one is the best for best strength? Well, we have the #41 which has impressive strength, but it has 1/4" width between plates, a little larger than I would like.
The #415H chain has 3/16" width between plates, which is better, BUT I had to grind it(see previous post). The #420 chain has really high strength, but like the #41 chain, it too has 1/4" width between plates, and I suspect it will also need to be modified, like the #415H chain.
-Fred
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KCvale
Well-Known Member
How about a visual guide...
As mentioned before in this topic that is a general assessment of strength and different manufacturers have different specs, but the sizes are all the same.
Note for you Shift Kit guys with derailleur gears...
A 7-speed drive chain is only 3/32 and the more rear sprockets you have, the thinner the chain gets.
I highly recommend you replace the bikes chain with a 6-7 speed KMC Z50, or Z50H if you can find it.
Tip:
Don't try mount a powerful Jackshafted motor to anything with more than 7 sprockets, nobody makes a 10 gear chain that will take a kick ass jackshafted motor, I know this first hand unfortunately.
As mentioned before in this topic that is a general assessment of strength and different manufacturers have different specs, but the sizes are all the same.
Note for you Shift Kit guys with derailleur gears...
A 7-speed drive chain is only 3/32 and the more rear sprockets you have, the thinner the chain gets.
I highly recommend you replace the bikes chain with a 6-7 speed KMC Z50, or Z50H if you can find it.
Tip:
Don't try mount a powerful Jackshafted motor to anything with more than 7 sprockets, nobody makes a 10 gear chain that will take a kick ass jackshafted motor, I know this first hand unfortunately.
shwnrttr
Member
if you need a 410 or 415 chain with high tensile strength check kmc drop buster.http://www.danscomp.com/464013.php# i was a sponsored bmx rider for 8 years(til i herniated 3disc in my back). i used to stretch and ware a lot of chains,til i started using these drop busters. only thing is you get 72 links in a package.
bigbutterbean
Active Member
ok, so the chain that came with my kit was 410. the chain is two years old and several links have broken. 415h is the least expensive chain I can find. I am using a standard 44t rear and 10t front on a 66 china girl. I dont have much clearance between my tire and chain, maybe 1/4 inch or a little more. will the 415h chain be too wide and rub on my tire, or will i be ok?
Bikeguy Joe
Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
You'll have to request that move from one of the mods. I am a normal member here.
I have no special powers, and possibly less than the average bear.showcaller
Member
I had the exact same set up on a 26" beach cruiser. The chain never broke but kept jumping off the sprocket no matter what I did. I bumped up to the 415 but I also went with the adapter that goes around the hub and attaches to your rear sprocket. If you have the nine bolts going through your spokes - get rid of those and get the hub adapter. The cool thing about the adapter is you can adjust the sprocket exactly so the chain doesn't hit the rear wheel. Several places sell the adapter or if you buy it as part of a kit I think you save some dollars. Phantom bikes has a version. You can start there. Good luck.
bigbutterbean
Active Member
That doesnt really answer my question. All I want to know is whether the 415 chain will rub against my tire.
rustycase
Gutter Rider
BB, Yes, the chain will rub on your tire sidewall.
Chances are it will scuff it some...
Replace tire before it becomes hazardous.
You .could. dish the wheel.
Move it over a tad, for improved clearance between the chain and tire.
First .loosen. all the spoke nipples 1/2 turn on the chain side of the rim.
Then .tighten. all the nipples for the spokes to the other side of the hub.
After doing this you will need to verify the rim is running true, which is easy enough with some sort of indicator taped in an appropriate position.
Repeat or adjust the process to suit your needs.
This shall cause the bike to track just a little bit from perfection, but it's a trade-off we can make for a quickie fix that does not involve a buncha bucks.
Of course, another option is to run a skinnier tire which most will not want to do...
Best
rc
Chances are it will scuff it some...
Replace tire before it becomes hazardous.
You .could. dish the wheel.
Move it over a tad, for improved clearance between the chain and tire.
First .loosen. all the spoke nipples 1/2 turn on the chain side of the rim.
Then .tighten. all the nipples for the spokes to the other side of the hub.
After doing this you will need to verify the rim is running true, which is easy enough with some sort of indicator taped in an appropriate position.
Repeat or adjust the process to suit your needs.
This shall cause the bike to track just a little bit from perfection, but it's a trade-off we can make for a quickie fix that does not involve a buncha bucks.
Of course, another option is to run a skinnier tire which most will not want to do...
Best
rc
bigbutterbean
Active Member
I found some 410 bmx chain on ebay pretty cheap. I dont want to go to my local shop, because the guy lies and charges too much.
showcaller
Member
Guess I didn't make myself clear. With the adapter on the hub you can move it (the adapter and sprocket) back and forth until the chain misses the tire. There is about an eighth of an inch of clearance between my chain and tire.
bigbutterbean
Active Member
thats ok. I am still gonna buy the bmx chain. I cant afford a hub adapter right now, but Im gonna be working on making my own solid sprocket mount using fiberglass and the rag joint. Im not having issues with chain alignment, i just need a new chain. 410 is the size i have now, and the size that bmx chain uses, which is what im buying on ebay. 410 chain clears my tire just fine.
I'm bumping this old thread because of some recent discussion on chain size and comparisons.
I used some kit supplied #415 chain and compared it with Diamond industrial grade #41.
My measurements differed a little from those given in the charts but keep in mind I used a cheap Harbor Freight digital caliper that I don't trust. Anyway, there are some differences but they aren't much. A few thousands of an inch here and there but when you really compare the construction of the two chains you'll see why I prefer the #41.
The photos are self explanatory for the most parts.
Tom
I used some kit supplied #415 chain and compared it with Diamond industrial grade #41.
My measurements differed a little from those given in the charts but keep in mind I used a cheap Harbor Freight digital caliper that I don't trust. Anyway, there are some differences but they aren't much. A few thousands of an inch here and there but when you really compare the construction of the two chains you'll see why I prefer the #41.
The photos are self explanatory for the most parts.
Tom
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Continued:
Compare the rollers on the #41, left, to the ones in the #415, right. The rollers in the #41 are full width where the #415 rollers are narrower than the area between the side plates. Also the rough surfaces on the #415 rollers look a little dicy compared with the bearing-like surfaces on the #41 chain.
The 'stretch factor' is different too. Most industrial grade chain is pre-stretched at the factory. That means they apply a pull to the chain after assembly to seat the rollers and pins and take out any slack in the parts. The Chinese #415 chains will find their ultimate length eventually too but they will require frequent chain tension adjustment until that happens.
Just my experience. Not stone carvings.
Tom
Compare the rollers on the #41, left, to the ones in the #415, right. The rollers in the #41 are full width where the #415 rollers are narrower than the area between the side plates. Also the rough surfaces on the #415 rollers look a little dicy compared with the bearing-like surfaces on the #41 chain.
The 'stretch factor' is different too. Most industrial grade chain is pre-stretched at the factory. That means they apply a pull to the chain after assembly to seat the rollers and pins and take out any slack in the parts. The Chinese #415 chains will find their ultimate length eventually too but they will require frequent chain tension adjustment until that happens.
Just my experience. Not stone carvings.
Tom
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tooljunkie
Member
Still running the chain i salvaged off an old garage door opener. That stuff is tough.