can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!

Pulled the case and the outer clutch plate, And %#@$%, Oil on the plate. I looked at a few old cases and didn't see a seal behind the clutch. Only the bearing has KINDA a seal. SO, Whats more likely, Oil (fuel mix) coming through the clutch shaft bearing or coming from the bevel gear seal? Either one I think would leave oil on the clutch.
fatdaddy.:-||
 
There is NO oil or mixture in the clutch shaft area, except whatever yellow ear wax the factory used. There is no seal required on the clutch shaft bearings since they are not under any internal pressure. May have just slung out excessive grease?
Clean it up and use brake cleaner on the pads.
You can look inside the shaft area by removing the clutch cable adjuster under the carb and look through the hole.
Maybe it's over greased....but this should not be an issue. I have only seen your problem from the guys who like to pack the entire clutch shaft/case with grease.
In any case, clutch bearing seals should handle this, so maybe replace the bearing.
 
maniac57 said:
There is NO oil or mixture in the clutch shaft area, except whatever yellow ear wax the factory used. There is no seal required on the clutch shaft bearings since they are not under any internal pressure. May have just slung out excessive grease?
Clean it up and use brake cleaner on the pads.
You can look inside the shaft area by removing the clutch cable adjuster under the carb and look through the hole.
Maybe it's over greased....but this should not be an issue. I have only seen your problem from the guys who like to pack the entire clutch shaft/case with grease.
In any case, clutch bearing seals should handle this, so maybe replace the bearing.
Click to expand...

So what yer saying is that "IF" oil (fuel mix) is getting through at all it has to be coming from the bevel gear (crank) seal.
fatdaddy.laff
 
If you have fuel mix behind the clutch, it HAS to be coming from the crank. The chinadoll case has no connection between clutch shaft area and crank inside.
 
Another question for experienced builders ONLY. I dont need a lot of guessing on the subject. I would like to give a 66/80cc cylinder a light honeing(sp?) before re-assembly. SO, exactly how thick is the cylinder wall before i do damage? the cyl. really looks OK, just some normal wear streaks. Will it FUBAR it to give it a very light hone? Has anyone ever tried this before?
fatdaddy.
 
DO NOT HONE PLATED CYLINDERS.
All you will get is scratched cylinder walls and more and faster ring and piston wear.
Honing is for IRON jugs, not cheap flash plated chinadolls.
 
Thanks Maniac, I thought I heard that a long time ago. That these cylinders were just plated. Exactly why I thought I'd check with the forum first. Yer right Maniac, If it's just plated then even a light hone will fubar it for good. God I wish there were better parts out there that didn't cost yer life savings. I love my China Girl, but she suire is a cheap tart. TART is the only word I thought the MOD'S might allow. I can think of some they wouldn't.
fatdaddy.usflg
 
I've had carb leaks get into clutch area - usually a grease problem will look thick & matted inside bottom of cover, crank seal problem will look wet & runny - a carb leak can go either way if the fuel dissolves some grease. clean all really well & try to spot it before it gets all over again to see where it's from, but usually a seal will limit your revs really low.
 
Thank's C-man, But no grease, Just 2 stroke oil. I'm sure after the gas evap's. Just leaving the oil behind. I've got another cylinder and a new crankseal, So I'll prolly be putting that together today. I can't be too long without a ride ya know. At the same time I'm trying to get Tri-Baby, ( my tadpole trike) tuned and going again. Put on a new carb and it still runs like crap. Putting in a new spark plug and hoping that'll do it. Put a new 49CC engine on her about a year ago so the engine is prolly still OK. Then putting on a Kiddie car Corvette body on it, (Just cause I can) And see what the cop's think about THAT. It'll look like a car but still only three wheels and pedal's.I aint seen any laws about putting a body on a bike,(trike). So I guess we'll see what happens.
fatdaddy.usflg
IT'S YOUR BIKE,
BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
Shiney side up,
rubber side down..bf.
 
Anyone knoe how i can safely remove this baring to be used on the new shaft?

It dawned on me after posting to clamp it in a vice and unscrew the retaining ring, thus pushing the baring loose...
 

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ok I have a Genesis Men s Astra and need a motor mount and a way to put the tank on the big top tube any suggestions
 
The genesis ONEX I built had the same issue. I simply tack welded the tank studs to a couple of large muffler clamps that fit the frame tube. Add some inner tube underneath the tank where it touches the frame tube,to help with vibration and don't overtighten the clamps.
 
here is my Genesis onyx I put the tank on the back and I created a motor mount out of a pipe seal fitting if you have any questions message me back
 

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ronorcal said:
here is my Genesis onyx I put the tank on the back and I created a motor mount out of a pipe seal fitting if you have any questions message me back
Click to expand...

Ain't nothin wrong with that setup, And a bonus... NO gas between yer legs to splash on yer wallnuts.LOL
fatdaddy.
 
.wee.these are all good suggestions I have checked into having a mount made by bike bobber but I cant afford it im on SSD and only get 743.00 so im building bikes to supplement my income ive built 14 of them so far and decided to try the astra ive been using the kent fixie bike its a steel frame and is Fairley easy build I have it down to just under 2 hours from box to running I have done the Schwinn admiral and the Schwinn midway there a very simple build also but this Astra has me stumped every time I look at it I get more frustrated LOL the top tube is 2.145" and the fork down tube is 1.75 there about so its kind of frustrating not being able to find the mounts I need im thinking about buying a block of aluminum 1.5"x 4" x 3" and cut a half circle for the frame and using the regular mount clip to tie it all together you ALWAYS want to add to the front not the back of the motor. there is more stress on the back mount compared to the front
 
the only problem with that is the tank sits way too high. im thinking about welding studs to the studs on the tank and using the stock straps. it should work the only reason it doesn't fit is the studs are not long enough. other than that im going to figure out how to use two muffler clamps for the motor mount but using the flat ones instead of the rounded ones the flat ones give more surface area for a better grip on the aluminum frame don't want to tighten too much and also not enough
 
The tank dont look too high to me bro, as long as you can swing yer leg over it. After all, It is gravity feed.
fatdaddy.
 
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