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Discussion in 'Norm's 2 stroke repair center' started by Norman, May 6, 2009.
Is the zl rod a 38mm or 40?mm
Yes, let's do get our terminology correct.
The coil is not part of the magneto, nor is it in the engine. The coil is the component that has the spark plug wire coming out of it. Usually it is a separate part, but the coil in these engine kits is built into the CDI housing (the black box that mounts to the frame of the bike).
Under the timing cover of the engine is a spinning magnet that is attached to the end of the crankshaft. That spinning magnet is called the rotor. Surrounding the rotor is a U-shaped piece of steel with a spool of wire on it. That part is the stator. The spool of wire is the stator winding (not the coil; calling it a coil confuses the issue). The rotor/stator/winding combination is the magneto.
the zl rod is a 38MM rod
Type A = 15/16" Bottom of piston to center of connecting rod. Used on 38mm rods. Also on specialized ZAE 50 rods 38mm stroke - If you have this rod and crank, double check
Type B = 1 1/16" Bottom of piston to center of connecting rod. Used on 40mm rods.
Z-L Rod = 38mm / Type A Piston - PK Type (Non-Caged)
CY Rod = 38mm / Type A Piston - PK Type
FM80 Rod = 40mm / Type B Piston - GT5 Type
ZAE 50 Rod = 38mm / Type A Specialized crank setup.= 38mm / Type B Piston - PK Type
ZAF 60 Rod =
ZAF80 Rod = 40mm / Type B Piston - GT5 Type
No Mark Rod = 40mm / Type B Piston - PK Type (Caged)
ZAF 50, ZAF 60, and ZAF 80. The higher the number, the longer, and therefore heavier. You can run a pk piston in a gt5 as long as the con rod has z-l on it or zaf 50 not the zaf 60 though and yes the jugs are different the biggest visual difference is the gt5 usually has a tapered transfer port window.
Your answer is appreciated. You got that information from the" technically speaking "Page by Ozark. This is the article that originally got me second-guessing what I thought I already knew. I watched the video that Fred from CR machine did on engine configuration and he's rather certain that the zl Rod is a 40 millimeter stroke.
Terminology again. 38mm or 40mm is not the rod length. It is the piston stroke, which is an entirely different thing.
Sorry, but come on, guys!
I do get what you're saying, DRBS, and it's great information.
Need help with mounting new/different motor on Stretched frame
I am trying to figure out how I am going to put a motor on my current stretched cruiser bike. It does not have V type frame. Its completely open in the middle. gas tank built into frame .reason . I would say the middle section of the frame is shaped like a bathtub. Anyone have any ideas. Im new to this stuff. I bought the bike from a guy that built them in his garage. It currently has a friction drive on it that engages under my seat where it hits the tire. Im not sure If I could mount a rear wheel friction drive over the back tire. I would prefer to change it all together and put a chain drive motor on it. Please help if you have the answer
Pretty sweet bike. It will be a lot of work but you need the right mounts, short chain on right side long one in the left. Look up the occ choppers and other stretched chopper builds.
I just assembled my 80cc motor bike it stays in freewheeling all the time and there's no spark with the sparkplug it looks wired correctly black to black blue to blue ...please help
Make sure the ground (black wire) is grounded well. Screws are tight on magnito, the magnet is on the right way and the spark plug boot is also tight the magnet should be in the two o'clock posistion at tdc.
I got a motorized bicycle get on Amazon and I have it on my bike already. Problem is I'm not getting any Spark. I bought a new HD lightning CDI and a new Magneto and spark plug. I tested the Magneto with an OHM meter and it tested good. The lightning HD CDI also tested good on the ohm meter. I've also tried disconnecting the Killswitch and trying to ground the spark plug on the head while engaging the engine with the clutch out. I'm not getting spark at all. I also removed the magnet and made sure that the slot and it is facing at the 1 o'clock position. Anything that I might have forgotten to do I would really like to get my motorized bike running as it hasn't even started once. Any help is appreciated thank you.
This may sound silly but make sure your wires from the magneto and the wires from the coil are connected to the correct sides of the cdi. Also make sure all connection are solid. The other thing I have found at rndom times is, make sure the magnito is grounded to the engien. (No glue or plastic coating that sometimes they come with stopping a true connection.)
I just bought a new motor for my stretch cruiser. It lasted a week. Went far to see afriend and before I got there my name stay went neutral. Upon checking I saw that the nut that holds the sprocket for the motor side chain was off. I tightened it back and it worked for half a block. Now I keep getting worse results. I think the cam may bestripped or something but the nut goesback on so I'm not sure if that's theproblem. And I have no clue how to make it work. Please help.
One thing to keep in mind is these little motors are assembled in dirt floor factories so it sounds like your motor maybe was lacking the "wooddrift"key that keeps that sprocket from slipping, you can get that key at ACE or any hardware store,GOOD LUCK
Thanks it was the woodruff key. Had to change out the whole shaft bc the threads were stripped on the sprocket side.