can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!

Well, today I recieved my new boot and plug from SickBikeParts.com. I got the NGKB5hs plug and Performance Plug Wire. After installation I tried to run it and, alas, nothing. Now I'm thinking this could be a cause of either the CDI or the Magneto. Any thoughts on this? I knew eventually I would have to replace some of these parts, but I didn't think it would be this soon. I havent put more than 8 hours on this thing!
Also, when I got my new plug wire and plug it looked like it didn't need the cap on the plug removed (for contact of the inside boot). I tried to fire it up...didn't work, so I removed the cap and tried again...still no life. Am I doing this right? I'm pretty scatterbrained right now. Any advice would be appreciated!
 
If you changed the plug wire, I'd look there first.
Changing a wire would not affect the cdi or magneto
 
Are you priming piston with the push button on the carb? And giving it some throttle while peddling around?
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Yes, I am priming carb and have the choke on. I'm getting fuel to the cylinder because after I try to run it, I remove the spark plug and I can smell and see traces of fuel. I think it's either gonna CDI or the Magneto. I hear 9 times out of 10 it's the magneto. Any ideas?
 
maniac57 said:
If you changed the plug wire and it no longer runs.
Check the PLUG WIRE!
Jeez!
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When I installed the engine, it ran-with all the stock equipment. Then, if you read my story, it died on me. It wont start now. I have fuel going to the cylinder so it's not a carburetor issue. I REPLACED the stock plug and boot and STILL no luck. I think it's an issue with either the CDI or he Magneto. Hope that clears things up, lol.
 
Hi Norman, I've got my bike put together and it starts up properly. The problem Im having is when it starts and I twist the throttle, it just gets a little louder but no acceleration.
-Roberto.
 
Hi Norm,
I just put anew 3 speed bike together with a sbp jackshaft kit, when I try to start bike I cant seem to pedal it with the clutch engaged. pedals fine with lever pulled but when I release it engine is too hard to pedal can only get half a pedal down. seems like really high compression or something... idk. any ideas?
 
The front freewheel on shift kits means there is no help from bicycle momentum when starting it. You must pedal through the compression to get it going.
Takes a while to learn how, but it can be done if you pedal hard at the right time.
 
Well, I searched, and again, but can't seem to find it...

Would someone be kind enough to provide a link to, or instruction on, replacing the plug wire on a HuaSheng 4-stroke?
I pulled. I twisted and pulled. I stopped before I broke something.

Thank you for any assistance.
 
Anyone help please. So I have no clue why this happened but my bike stopped accelerating. It starts but I twist the throttle and it doesnt accelerate just revs up and then obviously dies cause the bike stops moving. Please any help is appreciated. I've messed with the clutch because I've been told that's tje problem but nothing. :-||
 
Perhaps an air leak? You say it revs but has no power. Does it idle?
What engine is it? Need more info.
 
Its a chinese 2 stroke. No it doesn't idle it never has. If the bike isn't moving it turns off, and no it doesn't accelerate just revs up a bit.
 
Sometimes itll make those put put sounds but other times it will start perfectly fine just not accelerate. Not sure what pedaling over means can you explain that
 
pedal pusher said:
Norm,

What size is the ball bearing that goes with the clutch actuator arm and please say where you can order one. I am near a Tractor Supply, old timey hardware, NAPA, AutoZones, etc.
Many thanks,
Don P
Click to expand...
No bearing on the clutch arm, but there is a bearing behind the bucking bar, a short bar that actuates the clutch off of the clutch arm. It needs a bearing for the clutch assembly to spin on, otherwise it would spin metal to metal and wear out a bucking bar very quickly. I know, I've left them out once or twice and in a few days the bucking bar is chewed up and too short to work. SO pull out the bucking bar and make sure the bearing is still in there.
 
robdawgg said:
Sometimes itll make those put put sounds but other times it will start perfectly fine just not accelerate. Not sure what pedaling over means can you explain that
Click to expand...

Pedaling over = The engine is turning over by pedal power only, not by internal combustion power.
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Pedal Pusher, the ball bearing fatdaddy speaks of is 5/16" diameter.
 
It could be caused by a number of things.
First be doubly sure that the wires from the engine and the CDI box are securely connected. If you used the plug in connectors that came with the kit that will surely guarantee a poor connection. It is best to cut them off and strip the wire ends and twist then solder the connections and cover them with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
Factory spark plug cap is junk. Replace the wire and cap with an automotive one from a parts store.
Factory kill button is junk. They are known to fail in the closed/ kill position (temporarily disconnect it to test it)
Factory solder joints on mag coil under left side cover are randomly good/ junk depending on the factory worker that soldered them that day.
Factory spark plug could be junk. Use NGK B6HS or B7HS.
This link may help out too: http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/Magneto Mystery.html
 
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