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maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Have you been riding in the rain?
Once a magneto coil inside the sidecover gets wet, it can short intermittently awhile before it fails completely. They WILL get wet riding in even a light rain unless you seal the case where the wires come out.
If everything else checks out, look at the mag coil for signs of water in the case.
 

rattedcuiser

New Member
Aug 24, 2013
3
0
0
pcb fla
hey guys I was curious how yall test your electrical when you cant start your motor. I don't have a way of pedaling it to get it to spark while testing it with the multimeter. thanks
 

nipdatrip

New Member
Dec 17, 2013
3
0
0
Alabama
Carburetor issues

i just recently got my bike all put together and i am getting no fuel from my carburetor to the cylinder and i am getting fuel from the line in the bowl and it is coming up throught the jet hole when i blow in the fuel line i dont know what the problem could be please help thanks Norman
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
I'd check the float needle for trash. Might also be an air leak in the manifold, but it would have to be very serious to prevent fuel draw.
You DO run a inline fuel filter, right?
 

kkalan

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
45
0
0
VA
I had the same problem and it was a small leak on the connection between the carb and cylinder. I change the gasket and tightened down bolts and it worked fine. Good luck.
 

nipdatrip

New Member
Dec 17, 2013
3
0
0
Alabama
its not the float needle i tried that and took the whole carb apart for some reason it not the jet it is as far as i can tell the fuel line fills into the bowl on the bottom of the carb but it stops there i guess the spark plug is still dry and no fuel is making it inot the cylinder i will try the gasket and hope for the best thanks any opther thoughts or ideas will be greatly appreciated
 

bmw2002

New Member
Feb 5, 2014
13
0
0
SPRING HILL FLORIDA
Hi Norm, I have been building these bikes or a little while now as a hobby, so i know a little about them. I blew a base gasket the other day and can feel the air coming out of it on of my bikes. It still runs tho, but i will be riding and full throttle then it will just sutter losing power then die. I pedal it for a few seconds pop the clutch and "WHAM O" shes up and running agian. So I started riding one of my other 4 bikes today, and it to now is doing about the same thing but agian this is only at full throttle! I compleatly cleaned the carb and put in a new plug, and cannot feel ANYYY leakage at the base nor head gasket as i can with the other bike! There is a small exhaust leak at the head that i can feel hot air coming out of but i dont think this could be the issue do you? It is as almost the bike is getting loaded up "flooded" with fuel for a second or something and then agter a few second it to will start agian! I am new to this site so if you could pm me or if ANY WAY POSSIBLE call me that would be amazingggg!!! (727)453-9790 I can use all of the help i can get at this point PLEASEEEEEE motor bike GURU ahaha!!
Thanks, Tyler in FLORIDA!!!
 

kkalan

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
45
0
0
VA
I had a similar problem at full throttle and I was getting to much vibration in the fuel line and carb. I just zip tied the fuel line and filter down and it solved the problem.
 

kkalan

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
45
0
0
VA
The other thing you might want to look at is a gasket leading from the carburetor to the motor sometimes I can get a Air leak
 

Henshooter

New Member
Feb 10, 2014
275
0
0
Melbourne au
Hi Norman from Henshooter in Australia
I'm having an issue with my latest build and hoping you can pinpoint the problem .
Two days ago I finished my latest project a beautiful old beach cruizer with a stock standard kit ,carby and exhaust ,now when I first ran it ,it was great run well and achieved good speed( not above break in speed though) today I fitted a new carby as the original had a bad leak at the inlet valve on the carby, it is one of the performance carby with the round mesh air filter , it seems since doing this I've lost a lot of power at it's higher end but revs perfectly well when the clutch is engaged , it seems as if when I get to roughly 20kph the motor has no more revs to give.
I've played with the idol screw but had no joy ,I've played with the excelerator cable tension but still no luck
It seems as if the stock carby ran better and gave me more power ,but the carby fitted is meant to be better.
Any thoughts as to what the problem may be as I'm at a loss to explain it

Thanks and kindest regards Henshooter
:-||
 
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GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Exactly which carb are you running now? Which carb were you running before? I bet your original carb could easily have been repaired, and still could be if you are interested.
It sounds like you are now running to rich. Have you done a plug chop?
Can you post photos? (You are one post away from the site allowing you to post photos.)
 

bmw2002

New Member
Feb 5, 2014
13
0
0
SPRING HILL FLORIDA
what isaplug chop?for my own knowledge? And henshooter haveyou made sure that the clip on the slide pin is on the middle notch? thats what everyone i have read and talked to reccomends with upgraded as well as stock carbs!!! Good luck!!
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
A plug chop is a method of using the color of the porcelain insulator (center electrode) of the spark plug to determine what the carburetor's state of tune is.

Put a piece of masking tape on the throttle housing and a piece of tape on the hand grip flange. Use a pen and mark a "pointer" on the hand grip tape.
Mark the throttle housing tape at the pointer for no throttle (idle speed).
Now twist the hand grip to full throttle and mark the throttle housing tape at the pointer for WOT position.
Use your best judgement and make 2 more marks on the throttle housing tape for 1/4 and 3/4 positions.

If you have many miles on your current spark plug, install a new spark plug. An NGK BP6HS is a common heat range plug for most chinagirls. A new plug will provide a clean and pristine insulator to get a good color imprint on.

Run the engine at the RPM's that are in question, no faster or slower, for at least 1 mile, 2 preferred.
Take a mental note of how far open you are holding the throttle by using the tape gauge you just made on the throttle grip assembly.
When 2 miles are done you must hold down the kill button and pull in the clutch lever at the same time and let the engine come to a complete stop. No need to stop the bike though. It is very important to not let the engine run at any different speeds or you will contaminate the color imprint on the spark plug. You can casually coast to a stop or pedal to where ever you are going. Just do not let the engine run anymore.
Let the engine cool down to where you can hold the cylinder and cylinder head comfortably in your hands. It should be barely warm. If it is too hot the spark plug threads in the cylinder head can easily be torn out when removing the spark plug.
Remove the spark plug and look at the color of the center electrode. It should be anywhere from a cardboard brown to a chocolate milk color.
If it is lighter in color the carburetor is running too lean: not enough fuel.
If it is darker in color the carburetor is running too rich: too much fuel.
If it is white the carburetor is extremely too lean and this will cause severe damage to the engine in a very short time.
It is always better to tune the carburetor a little on the rich side for better lubrication and a cooler burn temperature.

Adjusting the needle clip position affects the tune from just off idle to 3/4 throttle.
The fuel jet controls the tune from 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle (WOT).

Carburetors are tuned not by engine speed but by throttle position. This is why you made the position gauge in the very beginning. You now know what needs to be adjusted on the carburetor to properly tune it for the engine speed that the particular throttle position was controlling.

A note on spark plugs:
Using an old spark plug for performing a plug chop may result in a bad test.
Yes, an old spark plug will change color however it may have become permanently stained with any excessive residue that may have been present during it's life and the stain will give a false reading. Whenever in doubt, especially if your current spark plug is black, change it for a new one before performing a chop.

About heat ranges: Spark plugs need to operate at a certain heat range that allows them to be self cleaning but not too hot. Hot weather or very high compression will denote the need for a colder plug. Conversely, cold weather or low (factory) compression will denote the need for a hotter plug.
NGK plugs are rated by the amount if insulator contact length. The higher the number the higher the insulator contact length (colder plug). The lower the number the lower the insulator contact length (hotter plug).
Picture below to illustrate.

Spark plug heat will affect the color imprint. Too hot and the plug will burn off most all of the color imprint and possibly damage itself. Too cold and the plug cannot clean itself and will always look darker than the actual color imprint you are looking for as the residues just build up thicker and thicker on it.
Once again, a BP6HS is the most common spark plug to start with.
 

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robdawgg

New Member
Jul 29, 2013
15
0
0
illinois
Hi everyone, im riding a chinese 2 stroke, but ive come scross problems. My engine starts with some difficulty, but when I twist the throttle, it doesnt accelerate at all. Anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?