thanks al.fishmerman. i checked for a spark by pullin it out and set it on top of the motor while lifted bike and turned the motor over with my hands. i know i said i had spark before (which i thought i did) but i was wrong. i went and got a new spark plug but that still didnt give me a spark. could it be the cdi or magneto?
can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!
- Thread starter Norman
- Start date
G, I believe Alf has a page on pre-build inspection and fixes and stuff...
One of which is to NOT use the ground wire, and another is that the coil to plug wire is frequently defunct.
Once everything is running well and proven you can then hook up a kill switch.
Lotta good info in through the threads.
Best
rc
One of which is to NOT use the ground wire, and another is that the coil to plug wire is frequently defunct.
Once everything is running well and proven you can then hook up a kill switch.
Lotta good info in through the threads.
Best
rc
so I found a thread call no spark. the persons problem was in the magneto. so I went amd took my mganet part off looked at and put back on. wat the F@#$ do you know? it starts! now what in the world is that? i hope i dont have to do this everytime i wanna start it -_-
whats up guys im back. so my engine is seized. it appears to be in the crankcase. the rod move back and forth but not up and down. anybody got some suggestions? should i try fixing it or just buying another engine.
Purchase a replacement engine, set the busted one up on the shelf.
&*it happens!
the components for repair exceed cost of a complete unit.
soon you will be able to build a racing motor from the spare parts on hand???
Best
rc
&*it happens!
the components for repair exceed cost of a complete unit.
soon you will be able to build a racing motor from the spare parts on hand???
Best
rc
Hey Norman,
For some reason my clutch likes to squeal ALOT when it is in gear, as soon as i pull the clutch lever the squeal disappears. I was wanting to dive into the clutch to see if i could resolve the problem but cant figure out how to get past the Big Bevel Wheel. Would you happen to know more on the subject?
For some reason my clutch likes to squeal ALOT when it is in gear, as soon as i pull the clutch lever the squeal disappears. I was wanting to dive into the clutch to see if i could resolve the problem but cant figure out how to get past the Big Bevel Wheel. Would you happen to know more on the subject?
Have you already tried greasing the bucking bar and the single ball bearing that
is behind the bucking bar?
When those need to be greased they let you know by squealing like a stuck pig.
Really, they should be greased before they start squealing to avoid any un-necessary wear on them.
Brand new does not mean assembled correctly. Especially when it comes to these cheap little disposable engines.
Good luck! I hope that is as simple as a dry bearing.
BTW, it is impossible to over grease it. Pack the hole with a good sized blob of grease, put in the bearing, more grease, then the bucking bar. Wipe any excess grease off than may have been pushed out and use it to grease the release cam in the sprocket cover. The release cam comes out of the cover by rotating it around about 180* from the normal position and sliding it up and out.
Good luck! I hope that is as simple as a dry bearing.
BTW, it is impossible to over grease it. Pack the hole with a good sized blob of grease, put in the bearing, more grease, then the bucking bar. Wipe any excess grease off than may have been pushed out and use it to grease the release cam in the sprocket cover. The release cam comes out of the cover by rotating it around about 180* from the normal position and sliding it up and out.
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Usually that surface does not need to be lapped. The thick base gasket can seal up any irregularities on the surfaces. If you really want to do it... I don't know... try glass with a hole in it with sand paper to match?
On Harleys I used a special cast iron lapping ring along with valve grinding compound. That was for lapping either end of the cylinder.
On Harleys I used a special cast iron lapping ring along with valve grinding compound. That was for lapping either end of the cylinder.
Agreed w/GN... the bottom of a jug is usually NOT a critical situation.
with the gasket you could probably even use a bit of (YUK) silicone RTV.
I did have one shovel with mismatched cases and it was necessary to deck the top of them to get things lined up properly...
With these chinagirls, you could probably use a file across them and get it close enough! lol
Good luck
rc
with the gasket you could probably even use a bit of (YUK) silicone RTV.
I did have one shovel with mismatched cases and it was necessary to deck the top of them to get things lined up properly...
With these chinagirls, you could probably use a file across them and get it close enough! lol
Good luck
rc
I second the RTV. I like to use ultra copper rtv. And there is no need to lap the bottom of the jug.
Does anyone make a sprocket adaptor that is for hubs that do NOT have coaster brakes?
I'm about to convert my Trek 7200 hybrid, uses 700c wheels.
Thanks!
I'm about to convert my Trek 7200 hybrid, uses 700c wheels.
Thanks!
I believe Pirate Cycles makes adaptors in several different sizes.
Is the area between the spokes a cyclinder? What is the diameter?
What is the model of your hub?
Is the area between the spokes a cyclinder? What is the diameter?
What is the model of your hub?
Thank you for the fast reply!
I'm sorry I don't have an answer for the diameter, I need to go get a cheap caliper. For a bike that's 8+ yrs old, there is very little info I can find about what it exactly is, hub wise.
I ask as most of the adapter makers mention coaster breaks.
Here is an image of that side of the hub
Please excuse the dirt- It's going to get steamed cleaned before installation.
Looks like a Shimano Deore to me. Just by looking at pics on the shimano website. It has the same outline.
Harbor freight has cheap calipers.
Harbor freight has cheap calipers.