Bike won't start no spark

J

jaygarren1

New Member
Norm,
I was wondering if you or anyone else could help me out. I have a 80cc Flying Horse engine with a performance carburetor. I got the kit from Bikeberry.com. I am having trouble getting it to start. The bike worked for two days and now it wont start. On the second day the engine died on me when I was on my way back home. I took the spark plus out and it had oil on it. I clean the spark plug and checked to see if I get spark and I don't. I got a new spark plug put it in and tried to start the bike and it wouldn't start. It turned over like it wanted to start but wouldn't stay running. it just dies out.

I checked the wire going to the spark plug and made sure that the wire was making a good connection. This is my first bike and I am not sure where to look next. I heard the stock CDi isn't the best and can go bad. I was wondering if it might be that or if I should see about getting another one. I am still under warranty on my engine. It did seem to run nice the two days I had it running before it died and now I get no spark. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I have the 80cc Flying Horse engine on my Genesis Onyx Cruiser.
 
Welcome to the forum, first I would disconnect the kill switch and check for fire. Also check the connections on the wires at the push together connectors, the connectors become loose quickly. If neither helps you will need a multimeter to check the magneto coil and cdi. The link below tells how to check both and what the values should be.


http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35090
 
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Thanks for the advice and link. I did try to start my bike with the kill switch disconnected and I got the same response. I check the wire connections and they all seem to be good. I also made sure the spark plug wire was connected good. I think advance auto has a multimeter that I can use, so planning on testing the magneto and CDI later today. I know I just got my bike, but minus the little set back I like it so far. they're reasonably priced and fun to ride. With the gas millage they get I don't see why more people are riding them. I like this forum as it is very helpful and informative.
 
Pull the left side cover and check the black wire where it mounts for rust or corrosion. I recommend keeping a few spare parts so you don't miss a change to ride. I keep a magneto coil, cdi and a spare carburetor. One other thing to check is the spark plug cap, the stock cap will fall apart. This happened to me so I replace the cap with a NGK cap from the local motorcycle dealer, the best $3 you can spend on upgrades.
 
I did pull the cover off and checked the wires connected to the magneto. They all seemed to be connected good and no sign of corrosion or rust. I also checked the spark plug wire. I unscrewed the wire from the CDI box and stripped the wire back a little before I screwed it back on and did the same at the cap end to make sure I had a good connection there.

I Tested the CDi from the spark plug boot to the black wire I got 7.05
from the spark plug boot to the blue wire I got no change
from the blue to black wire I got no change

When I tested the magneto from the blue to white wire I got .51-.53
from the white to black wire I got no change
from the blue to black wire I got no change as well.
 
Your ohm readings aren't consistant with normal readings. Are you sure you have the meter set to the right scale?

Tell us how you are checking for ignition (spark). When rotating the crankshaft the spark plug must be grounded against the engine case or the cylinder head. You will also need to spin the crank pretty fast. You won't see any spark just turning the engine over slowly. Simply holding the plug in your hand won't tell you anything.

The best way is to suspend the rear wheel and with the clutch engaged, pedal the bike. Or you can walk the bike at a fast pace but that can get awkward holding the plug tight against the engine and walking while watching the plug.

By stripping the spark plug wire exposing more conductor, you must make sure that the center post (sheet metal screw like thing) in the CDI threads into and tight against the conductor. Same for that POS spark plug boot that comes in the kits. Your best bet is to get rid of it and use a good automotive quality plug boot and a plug with the top cap installed.

Tom
 
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Checking for spark I put the center kickstand on a block of wood to have the rear wheel extended in the air. then I pull the spark plug and have it resting on the cylinder head. With the clutch out I turn the pedals pretty fast and watch the spark plug to see if I have spark.

When I tested my CDI and magneto I had my multimeter set at 20k in the OHM setting range.
 
Could also be the issue I had reciently where the mag and coil don't have enough clearance and rub causing the magnito to die within a day or two of running ,as one of the members here suggested loosening the screws on the coil and placing a business card between that and the magnet ,then tighten up the screws ,always good to keep spares of the mags and coils too

Regards Hen
 
I Checked the mag and coil making sure that they were not touching. Then I checked to see if I had spark and I did have spark. I tried to start my bike and got it running for a little bit. When I tried to adjust the idle screw by turning it in it died. I turned the idle screw out a little and tried to start it again a couple times, but haven't been able to get it started. planning on checking the mag and coil again tomorrow along with testing for spark. hoping I can get it going. if there's anything else I should check or do please let me know. It has all been helpful and I want to thank everyone on here for their advice and info. Hope everyone has a great week.- Jason-
 
When adjusting the idle stist the throttle a little, it makes it easier on the barrel and screw.
 
Thanks I will twist the throttle a little when adjusting the idle. Hoping to get it to start today. like I said I am going to check and see if the mag and coil are touching then spark and see what happens.
 
I check my magneto to make sure the coil wasn't touching it and it wasn't. I tested the magneto and I didn't get any readings on my multimeter. I know the meter works fine. Once in a great while I would get a zero reading from the white to black wire and nothing from any other wires. I tested it at the ends of the wires and where the wire connects to the magneto and still nothing. When I checked my CDI I got a reading of 6.99-7.05. I am going to contact Bike Berry and see about getting a replacement magneto and maybe CDI as well. I just got the engine a couple weeks ago and should still be under warranty.
 
Your zero readings from the magneto tells me the coil is bad (open).
Let us know what happens with a new magneto.

Just out of curiosity and interest, you should put that same meter on the new coil and record your readings before installing it.

Tom
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I was planning on testing the new magneto just to see what I get. The magneto should be here by this Saturday. Before the old magneto died I was getting readings of 511-513 with the same multimeter that I was getting zero readings with a day or 2 before I sent it back. I also have a spare magneto and CDI coming as well.

Have a great week and fun riding.usflg I love these motorized bikes. I get from 5-12 or more people wanting to check out my bike and asking about it when I do bring it out. I am in upstate NY (Binghamton/Broome County area) and there is only 2 other people that I know of that have a motorized bike. One is gas and the other is electric. I am also planning on getting brakes on my front tire as all I have right now is just the coster brake. I was thinking of getting caliper brakes to add to the bike and obviously I will need to get a luggage rack as well. Down the road I was thinking of getting it painted and then going to the local bike shows with it. .trk
 
jaygarren1 said:
I tested the magneto and I didn't get any readings on my multimeter.

I tested it at the ends of the wires and where the wire connects to the magneto and still nothing.
Click to expand...
This new build http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=732 just a month old came in with a no spark condition.

My troubleshooting procedure is simple these days and while it fresh in my mind here it is.

Disconnect everything.

Ohm the black magneto wire to a head bolt, it should read a dead short.
If not, check the ground tab on the magneto.
Note:
The new skyhawk CDI's have no white wire, ground is the lower connector but it has a wire from it to engine ground.

Old style mags with a white wire have a tab out of the mag that solders directly to the mag base {usually at the top) and they can come loose, just hold it down and re-solder.

Ohm the magneto from the black and blue wire, 320-380 ohms is ideal, an open or dead short means a bad magneto if the wires are connected.

Ohm the CDI in the 10K-20K scale.
Red+ meter probe to CDI black wire.
Black- meter probe to the spark plug cap.
You should get about 6.9K ohms.

If not it could be a bad wire or cap.
Unscrew the plug wire at the cdi, use pliers or even cut it off and dig the junk out if need be and do the same test above again to the cable screw on the CDI.
If that works get a new wire and plug cap, if not you have a bad CDI.

If all of that is good there is only one thing left, the magnet.

That was indeed the problem with this repair on a new build with a 2014 gasbike.net front page engine kit.

When you pull the 4 bolts out of the magneto mount it should slam itself against the magnet, I mean to the point where it is hard to even get your first bolt in.
A weak magnet that lets you move the mag around pretty easily is not strong enough to create a spark which is what this repair had.

Magnet replaced, problem solved and my repair is done.
 
Hello form or should i say good morning its 4am my time i just put ma kot on 80cc 2 stroke i installed it with the instructionz but i never got ot ro start for the life of me am exhausted myself and all option tryes like 1000 things nothing 16:1 ratio as per manuel open fuel line choke on and off pushed the ticlle button primed the carb pedalreleased clutch no luck wont start not evn turn over i bought an NGK spark plig from pepboys still nothing idk what to do anymore put d plug on head rear end lifted on a jack spun the **** out the tire no spark unscrewd plug boot n wire from mqg cut both end especially bcuz mag or coil end whichever the small black box is had dryd out deterating look cut 10mm off bouh put bacc still noth wire connecyions good after push in connect cts i pinches i. Metal part witg vise grip to clamp it n still no start :( any n all help higly appreciated tnx in advance was all happ waitn on kit finaally got spent hours installn only for dissappoinment
 
HwDzBeAzT said:
Hello form or should i say good morning its 4am my time i just put ma kot on 80cc 2 stroke i installed it with the instructionz but i never got ot ro start for the life of me am exhausted myself and all option tryes like 1000 things nothing 16:1 ratio as per manuel open fuel line choke on and off pushed the ticlle button primed the carb pedalreleased clutch no luck wont start not evn turn over i bought an NGK spark plig from pepboys still nothing idk what to do anymore put d plug on head rear end lifted on a jack spun the **** out the tire no spark unscrewd plug boot n wire from mqg cut both end especially bcuz mag or coil end whichever the small black box is had dryd out deterating look cut 10mm off bouh put bacc still noth wire connecyions good after push in connect cts i pinches i. Metal part witg vise grip to clamp it n still no start :( any n all help higly appreciated tnx in advance was all happ waitn on kit finaally got spent hours installn only for dissappoinment
Click to expand...

Check the post right above yours... I think KC spelled it out well enough...
 
I will throw this in for what is worth. Had a mag go down yesterday in an erratic manner. Trouble started after a high speed run and persisted until it failed. would run/bog/quit. Finally no spark at all. values confirmed this. Replaced the mag and all was well. Got to messing with old one and the failure was at the tiny ground wire coming out of the mag. I could push the probe into the coil and get a proper reading.
Point is there are new mags showing up minus the white wire where the blue wire is on one large terminal and the black on the other with a large jumper from the black terminal soldered to the mags frame. This would eliminate the vibration failure from using the VERY tiny coils wires directly to the mags frame. I have suspected vibes being mag killers for years
 
Heres some pics so the better coil can be identified. Its hard to see the long black wires connection but its on the same post as the jumper. This also offers a much better ground path. The small wire fails more easily. (I unsoldered it messing with it.)
 

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HwDzBeAzT said:
Hello form or should i say good morning its 4am my time i just put ma kot on 80cc 2 stroke i installed it with the instructionz but i never got ot ro start for the life of me am exhausted myself and all option tryes like 1000 things nothing 16:1 ratio as per manuel open fuel line choke on and off pushed the ticlle button primed the carb pedalreleased clutch no luck wont start not evn turn over i bought an NGK spark plig from pepboys still nothing idk what to do anymore put d plug on head rear end lifted on a jack spun the **** out the tire no spark unscrewd plug boot n wire from mqg cut both end especially bcuz mag or coil end whichever the small black box is had dryd out deterating look cut 10mm off bouh put bacc still noth wire connecyions good after push in connect cts i pinches i. Metal part witg vise grip to clamp it n still no start :( any n all help higly appreciated tnx in advance was all happ waitn on kit finaally got spent hours installn only for dissappoinment
Click to expand...


I would check to make sure the wires are hooked up right. Check KC's post before yours. Also, disconnect the kill switch and try starting the bike. Sometimes the killswitch is bad and will prevent the bike from starting. If you can get an ohm meter or multi-meter I would test the CDI and magneto to see if they're good. Another thing I would check is to take the cover off where the wires go into the engine and check to make sure the magneto isn't hitting the magnet in there. It would run if the magneto is hitting the magnet. when putting the magneto in you can use a business card to help separate the magneto from the magnet while you tighten it down. I hope you can get it running. Keep us posteded and we'll try to help.
 
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