Bike builders that have machine tools/shops

[EZL]

Hey, you got my Dad's Chuck! I hope I can find mine around here that's one thing I took when my Dad
passed away and the farm, equipment and machine tools went into the auction, beats looking for a chuck key
even on a drill press! The "flat head with Torx drive" is the only way to go.

 

[curtisfox]

TORX Rules, no more striped Phillips for me. LOL All my wood screws and all..........Curt

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

EZL, the first drill chuck I purchased for myself was a Albrecht to speed up changes. They have several limitations that put me firmly in the Jacob's camp. #1, the depth of the chuck varies with the size of the bit gripped. #2, They are prone to slippage. some sort of accommodation of a spanner to multiply their grip would be useful. I use both predicated on use.

Curt, thank-you for your benediction. TORX Rules!
But for wood have you tried square drive? I have been using them for years. I first became acquainted with them from a wooden boat forum I log into. Square drive has more contact area than even TORX. The socket of the screws is tapered to match the bits, and with greater sectional density than Torx less likely to shear off.
Have fun this weekend guys.
Tom from Rubicon

 

[curtisfox]

Yep Mcfeely's squre drive for years before they come into stores. https://www.mcfeelys.com/ , right down to 0 size bits. Did a lot of odd woodworking craft things, just outside and general wood stuff TORX over Phillips. Stainless square drive seems to be soft, so got to watch the torque...............Curt

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Curt, you are way ahead of me as well you should be.
I may be a master tool and die maker, but for years other disciplines were beyond me. I am trying my best to catch up.
Tom from Rubicon

 

[fasteddy]

Square drive screws are called Robertson Screws after the inventor. Story is old but the facts are the same.

Steve.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...icle1024050/&usg=AOvVaw2qqJhUYIffGDWYz_svAw-y

 

[EZL]

Then there's that #%@@^*& Security Torx is what another friend of mine called it. This one has a pin
recessed in the middle of the Torx screw. I bought the special Torx attachments to deal with this nonsense.
The Torx attachments have a hole in the center of it so it can be inserted into the Security Torx screw.
The Torx screws are hardened metal and you can't break the pin off or drill it out. If the screws aren't tight
a fella can use a small screwdriver and insert it between the pin and flutes on the Torx screw to remove
them. The first time we ran into these things was in the late 80s and early 90s on a IBM computer in for
repair. I bought the attachments for the Robertson screws and Security Torx screw, thanks for telling us
the information about them.

 

[EZL]

EZL, the first drill chuck I purchased for myself was a Albrecht to speed up changes. They have several limitations that put me firmly in the Jacob's camp. #1, the depth of the chuck varies with the size of the bit gripped. #2, They are prone to slippage. some sort of accommodation of a spanner to multiply their grip would be useful. I use both predicated on use.

Curt, thank-you for your benediction. TORX Rules!
But for wood have you tried square drive? I have been using them for years. I first became acquainted with them from a wooden boat forum I log into. Square drive has more contact area than even TORX. The socket of the screws is tapered to match the bits, and with greater sectional density than Torx less likely to shear off.
Have fun this weekend guys.
Tom from Rubicon

I am going to have to try to find mine I have the old chuck on the drill press and I hate using it since it doesn't tighten
down like the Albrecht Chucks. I never new or heard the name mentioned about them. I need to find mine or spend
some money on a new one, I guess.

 

[curtisfox]

LOL! Thanks Steve, story says it all. Back when doing wood crafts, got so tired of Philips slipping, seen a add in woodworker mag. so had to try, best thing i ever did. No store here had them back then, now do even sheet rock screws. But the public just can't seem to change, they like stripping Philips i guess. Tom i just a jack of all trades, master of none, try a lot of things, some good some flop. being 77 not to many flop any more, just take longer to think it through, and twice as long to do it.Worked 35 years in paper mill, had to have a outlet from the humdrum, craft was it, all craft metal and all............Curt

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Something new to post tomorrow. For the Sportsman.
I have a 35B42 and a 35A42 on order. I sawed off most of the 35B42 hub. It is now mounted to a faceplate on the Logan. Bought the faceplate on ebay probably 15 years ago and this is the first time it got use.
Tom

 

[curtisfox]

Don't know what them numbers are, but sounds like more progress to me. LOL Is all that for the Logan?..........Curt

 

[FOG]

I haven't got a faceplate for my Logan Tom and I'm not sure how they work, but I'd like to know! I'll be paying attention.

Got my 2nd hub off my lathe the other day. One more set of spoke holes left to drill and it'll be done.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Sorry Curt, I assume too much. A month ago I didn't know A from B except in the alphabet. 35 is chain size and 42 designates # of teeth.
The first sprocket I bought as I didn't know I had options was a B which has a 1/2" thick hub. All the better to broach a key way in and set screws. What I wanted was just a toothed chain sprocket and that.is designated by A.
So A is coming. I worried about machining off the welded hub releasing heat generated warp in the B sprocket. In the following photos you see most of the process. The sprocket is running concentric and wobble free. When A shows up it will get worked too.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Thumbnail is the good one. Hi FOG, I wanted a Faceplate for the Logan to add flexibility to my turning options. Engine work especially but this sprocket work is actually the first time it got used. Before I relocated to Rubicon, WI in 2006 my shop was located in Cortland, Ill. A ebay search one day had a Logan Faceplate in Sterling. I opted for local pick up too. Nice guy I suspect was a former employee of Stirling.
Tom

 

[FOG]

Thank You for the faceplate info Tom and now I'm feelin' kinda dumb. I don't think I've ever seen a more self explanatory tool. Versatile too.

I wonder if I could make one? Uh-oh. Here we go .....

I have cut a total of 2 backplates to mount chucks in my machine tool life and a faceplate would need the same 2.25" x 8 tpi thread that fits my spindle and I still have the external thread I cut for testing that thread size and do I need another project right now? NO! I'm gonna stick with the bike ... but there's one more on the list.

Thanx again.

 

[curtisfox]

WOW! Guess i am lucky, got all that with my lathe, my 4 jaw has a setup so i can move all jaws at once or each one individual..........Curt

 

[indian22]

Tom do you also have face plate "dogs" for your Logan?

My Logan was very similar to the one you have. Do you have the taper attachment as well? I was fortunate to find one for my Logan and it paid for itself with the first job!

I miss my broach set, but have a buddy who lets me use his once in awhile.

Rick C.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Hi Curt, synchronized 4 jaw I have never seen and combines independence too!
Hi Rick, purpose made cast iron dogs are not in my kit. Their universal nature being what it is. When I need a drive dog I make one job specific.
I have no taper attachment. The compound is all I have ever used.
Except once back in the 70' while I was still an apprentice Tool and Die Maker at Furnas Electric in Batavia, Ill. . The Toolroom had one of those big old
(WW2 war production) South Bend 12" swing, belt drives.
You knew when your feed rate was too high. The spindle stopped. Anyway it had a taper attachment. I was chopping a Harley Trike and back then you bought extended fork tubes, sawed off the fender lugs and turned the lower legs and retaining the brake lug. And this was back in the day when if you cleared the government work.
and most of the crew were ex WWII GI's and bikers. Foreman just said "Go at it kid".
I have given thought of adding a tapper attachment but I would much rather get a turret six position tail stock.

 

[indian22]

Turret tailstock would be a daily user upgrade whereas the taper rig is certainly job dependent in nature.
I believe the Logan catalog offered the taper attachment for approximately $100. While I can't recall a turret tailstock being listed, certainly one could be adapted for use on the Logan bed.

Yep Tom I've attended old belt drives that had "automatic" spindle stops, lol...the first ever lathe I remember seeing was a part of an old belt driven single motor powered machine shop...not one single tool had a motor built in. Mill, lathe, grinders, metal saws etc. all driven by overhead belts with belt "drops" to each machine...all machines could be operated at one time or individually. Talk about Rube Goldberg environments! This shop was constructed on "Two Baby" creek in the old Indian Territory day prior to statehood of Oklahoma and steam powered originally though water power was the original design intent. The shop was still in operation until about 1970 & never upgraded from single belt drive. As a kid I hung out there a lot and turned my first metal on these antiques. I've a lot of great memories formed on Two Baby creek in the old Flaming family shop. They were great black smiths as well and did use an electric motor to power the antique bellows for the coal heated forge. All was pre 1900's equipment and most all of the hand tools used were shop built and forged including wrenches, hammers etc.

When they required a tool they just designed and quickly fabricated it no matter the complexity level.

In the early '60's I was building a 1932 Ford roadster pickup with 3 foot bed. The rod was a really short wheelbase, Desota baby hemi, 3 deuce setup & Cadillac-Lasalle 3 speed tranny. It was dropped, chopped and channeled & I wanted reversed wide rims and a suicide front axle. The Two Baby shop had my rims ready with one day turn around & charged $5. per rim (I provided the Ford rims) and the axle was completed two days later for $25. & I remember the old man saying the shop was really busy and that was the reason it took so long to finish! It was lucky I had $50. in my wallet 'cause I didn't get paid till Saturday and the other $5. went into my gas tank. The wheels balanced out easily & looked super after chroming as did the axle. The only measurement I provided was finished width required and brake drum year and manufacturer (Ford rear and 1955 Buick front) & they mounted my Buick brakes. I did have an issue of Hot Rod magazine with a photo of the axle style I wanted and left it with them. The little deuce truck was a beauty & I later "even" swapped it for a pristine1957 'vette that needed an engine, tranny and clutch rebuild as the result of a street race gone bad due to a bad shift into second gear. Poor thing needed an engine upgrade, 340 hp 327 and a close ratio 4 speed tranny anyway; as well as a driver that knew how to shift....I was 17 what can I say? All this led to building many dozens of cars, trucks & cycles over the past 50 plus years and it's been fun & lucrative, though I'm almost toast I'm not quite done!

Rick C.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Rick,
My masters (GI generation) told me of shops with over head line shifts that they worked in and how one changed speeds by "Throwing the Belt" with a stick that had a nail to lift or lower the leather belt. Great info Pops, Never gonna do that.
Historically most of the industry was turbine driven along the Fox River in Illinois. My third Journeyman position was at D. R Sperry. North Aurora, Ill.
It was foundry right on the Fox. Over head line shifts were to rule and all by my time driven by huge electric motors. Vertical Boring Lathes of Civil War vintage. I had a machinist call me out to his VBL. The cope and drag had shifted in the pore. He couldn't get the bore of this three ton cast iron cylinder balanced opposite the mounting flanges. I will never forget walking around the table as he jogged it and stepping over clamps. Drifting the cylinder with a sixty pound sledge indicating it true. What else do you do when you are thirty years old? My masters taught me well.
Tom