Bike builders that have machine tools/shops

FOG said:
I've been poking around the net and it seems categorizing tapered miils is usually done by just one side. McMaster. MSC. etc. They all list the taper that way.

I wish I knew more about this stuff ....
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Looking at the bit it is round, so 3 degrees all the way around, or one side. But i don't know as much as you do so can't be for sure, I don't have a mill........Curt
 
It has finally sunk thru my thick skull that they're categorized by the angle on one side only. What tipped it was looking at a 45 degree cutter. Clearly 45 on one side. That would be 90 included but it's still a 45 degree end mill.

And ya might know 6 degrees doesn't seem to be real common. McMaster skips from 5 to 7 for one. But I'm still lookin' ....
 
FOG said:
It has finally sunk thru my thick skull that they're categorized by the angle on one side only. What tipped it was looking at a 45 degree cutter. Clearly 45 on one side. That would be 90 included but it's still a 45 degree end mill.

And ya might know 6 degrees doesn't seem to be real common. McMaster skips from 5 to 7 for one. But I'm still lookin' ....
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7 degree would be fine. a little more air flow.
 
Don’t know, Tom. Just some part. Have to hit a .005 flatness on the two little steps, it’s not getting electroplated though so I’m ok. Part thickness is tight as well but everything else is plus minus ten so I can probably cut that flatness a couple times over if it needs more welding.

thankfully I have not had to make or repair molds... I don’t think im that good... I write nice programs though... this part wasn’t mine though it’s all messed up...
 
I've lost a whole month over getting an angled cutter on this cylinder head ... but it was worth every minute! It looks so much better.

DSCF0988.JPG


Before it looked "blocky"? Is that a word? :)

Now it's light and airy and when I get some polishing done those extra angles are gonna look like the facets on a diamond.

Next up is I'm thinking about air flow. Because I'm using a horizontal motor that's actually the front of the head in the pic. Not the top. There are 3 more fins behind and except for the 1st one getting some air thru the 4 mounting holes the only air flow back there will be whatever spills over the top. Not much.

I'm thinking I'll slot a section all the way thru the 3 center slots, no structural issues there, and maybe drill, possibly slot, my way thru the ribs I left on each side.

But there's a combustion chamber on the other side and I don't wanna drill/slot my way thru that! Still thinkin'.
 
I finished "ventilating" the front section of my cylinder head and it's finally off the mill! That took awhile ...

DSCF0992.JPG


But now I'm having 2nd thoughts about polishing it. There's just too many nooks and crannys! I'll at least have a shot at it but another option is hittin' with my soda blaster. That leaves a dull but smooth and very uniform surface that needs no care for just about forever. Here's a heatsink I made to mount a modern rectifier on my old Yamaha that I used the soda on. I've also used it fork legs. Carbs. It leaves a nice finish.

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I'll be painting the cylinder black either way so I will have some contrast with the head. We'll see .....
 
Bill,
Your machining of the head, tapered fins and all exhibit clean cuts. If you have never done it before, take into the kitchen or laundry room, give the head a generous dose of dish soap, scrub with a bristle brush and rinse. Many times I have machined aluminum all clean cuts but until I washed it, it wasn't pretty. It will be.
Tom
 
Hmmm.... I dunno... Your original plan with the media blasted head and contrasting black cylinder will be a great look. And it'll save a bunch of time and work with those Dremel felts. That said, time is something we all seem to have in abundance during Covid season - and your time comes free. Do it your way.
 
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