BGF-Headlamp

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Randbrackett, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Randbrackett

    Randbrackett New Member

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    Hi,
    I bought the 80 cc motorized kit and light from BGF. I received the light today, and realized that it was one of those friction lights that rub the tire for power. I feel although this will just get in the way, and break. According to BGF I cannot bypass the friction piece and hook the light directly to the engine. Why is this, and what makes it different then the light being sold that will hook up to the engine? Also, is there a way around this? I do not want to buy/wait for a new one.
     
  2. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Active Member

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    The headlight powered by the friction gen is probably 3 volt. The white wire from the engine gives around six volts. See if you can fin a six volt bulb for your headlight.
     
  3. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    I bought one of their LED headlights a few years back- never could get it to power up off the motor wires, and tried about all combinations-

    a generator light is not that bad of a set=up I think-

    and so the headlamp I bought powers off of one

    there's also generator hubs out there these days- never used or even seen one, far as I know.
     
  4. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    Most bike generators ARE 6 volts- tho I think some newer ones may be 12v.
     
  5. Randbrackett

    Randbrackett New Member

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    Thanks for the responses

    This is the response I got from BGF when he responded to me:

    because
    if u add the light on the engine
    the light will take power from the engine
    so some time will kill the engine when u turn on the light
    but
    u can take the spark plug out and hit the top "L" shape little down not too much 1-2 mm is ok


    What I got from this is that the light will harm the engine in some way, and I do not understand this. The head light is 12 volts, although the tail light is only 2.5 volts. I would not be plugging that in if I were able to wire the headlight directly to the engine. Ideas
     
  6. Louskuntz

    Louskuntz New Member

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    HA! I had an issue with BGF a couple times and trying to read his english can be more complicated than your original problem.....he blocked me from buying from him on ebay....did me a favor as far as im concerned.
     
  7. Legwon

    Legwon New Member

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    if u look on ebay there is a 12v converter for the chinagirls. its just an addon peice that will convert it from 6v to 12v. then u can run the lights u require.
    Caution: it might not run a full 12v at all times.. i dont have one (yet)
     
  8. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    what he's saying is that many folks use the white wire as the kill switch in that shorting it to ground will kill the spark - running it thru a bulb to ground will weaken the spark (sometimes a LOT) but you might get it to run with the weak spark if you make the gap on the spark plug much smaller

    all-in-all you're much better off with the friction generator or a big, rechagable battery
     
  9. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Placing eletrical loads on the white wire forces the engine to work harder to generate voltage. Too many amps will kill the engine. The lighting coil is very weak and virtually useless for reasonable lighting. I'd try going with the generator since you already bought it.
     
  10. Powertool

    Powertool Member

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    Find a cheap L E D , 3 cell flashlight = 4.5 volts . use the white wire and ground to power the light , polarity dose not mater , lights will will be using ac , L E D s are over current tolerant to some extent - 6 volts will not be a problem . and you will still have fairly good light at low RPMs, unlike filament bulbs
     
  11. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    there is also some confusion here about headlights vs safety lights

    bicycles typically have safety lights that don't do much except warn cars that you are there, headlights (starting at about 1200lumens) light up your path for a hundred feet or so to allow driving fast on a dark night
     
  12. Randbrackett

    Randbrackett New Member

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    Thanks everybody. That makes a **** of a lot more sense then it did before.
     
  13. SuperDave

    SuperDave New Member

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    I have a 12v friction drive genny: http://www.streetlowrider.com/shop/p715/dynamo-generator-12v-6w/product_info.html
    and I modified my headlamp: http://www.bicycledesigner.com/bike-parts/bicycle-lights/led-bullet-light-with-visor-chrome.html
    to use LEDs I found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Bright-Voltage-Dropping-Resistors/dp/B0066AYRSY
    [​IMG]
    The Genny has 2 poles, labeled H & T. H is a full 12 volts and stands for headlight. T is 6v and is for the tail light. It's an ac generator, so you will have to run a ground wire to the frame to get voltage out of it, as you can't use the H & T leads together, it won't work that way. To convert AC to DC, I got a part from Radio Shack called a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062580&clickid=prod_cs, it has 4 poles labeled +, -, and the other 2 poles are ~ for the AC leads. Wire the H pole on the genny to one of the ~ leads and run the other ~ to ground on the genny and it will convert the power output to DC current.

    If you use the LEDs, make sure to use the supplied resistors that come with them or the LEDS will burn out in minutes, they are only 3.3 volts and any more will snuff them. Mine came with 2 sets of resistors, 100 ohms & 470 ohms, the 100's are for dropping 5 volts to 3v, the 470's drop 12v to 3v. They are SUPER bright, when I drive at night there is no problem whatsoever seeing the road.

    There is a thread here: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=32246 where some enterprising soul gave us all step by step instructions on how to use the white wire, and he used "smoothing capacitors" to smooth out the voltage pulses. I didn't, because I have a 12v battery so the caps weren't needed, but if you intend to use either a friction genny or the infamous "White wire" and NO BATTERY, I do recommend using capacitors.


    Something else I learned, find a piece of 5/8" heater hose tubing (an inch long will do) and glue it to the roller of the genny(I used black RTV silicon gasket compound commonly found in auto repair stores), this will slow down the genny's RPMs and help it last longer (or else it will wear down the brass bushing out), not to mention save the tire from excessive wear.

    Hope this helps.
     
  14. Randbrackett

    Randbrackett New Member

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    Motor Bike assembly

    Hey, so I will be assembling my motor kit today. I was wondering if there was any preliminary maintenance that I need to do before starting the engine, such as greasing barrings and what not? If this is the case What would you suggest, in regards to grease etc?
     
  15. SuperDave

    SuperDave New Member

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    Use locktight on ALL nuts & bolts. Pull every nut & bolt you can access and dab a drop on every last screw, then reassemble. These china girls vibrate something fierce at high RPMs and WILL rattle the fasteners loose. I've had parts literally fall of my bike as I have ridden it, so do yourself a favor, listen to those of us who have been through this before, use locktight. You can find it in most auto parts stores. Use the blue type, as the red is intended for internal motor parts not intended to be loosened or removed and often requires heat to get them apart for service.
     

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