Best oil break in ratio
- Thread starter ROAD RASH
- Start date
Hammond Egger
New Member
20:1 non-synthetic, up a slight hill, letting the motor cool off completely after each 15 or 20 minute ride. Rinse, repeat for 50 miles. Then just ride it like you would normally until you use of the rest of the first gallon of gas. Then switch to a good synthetic oil at a 40:1 ratio.
wayne z
Active Member
I took a chance Sunday, and broke in my latest 66cc build with 40-1 Pennzoil.
Upon first start, I immediatly went to WOT, but I let off at about 10mph, coasted down real slow an full bore to 10 mph or so, for a couple munites to warm it up good.
Then I flogged it hard, up and down a 1/2 mile hill, over and over for one hour, no cooldown except for taking it easy on the downhiill run the first 5 or 6 runs .
I did keep the stock slightly rich 4 stroking original clip positon during break-in.
After 3 one hour sessions, I dropped the needle one notch and it runs perfect now. Good plug read and very, very slight 4 stroking at WOT.
I figure if I hear a little 4 stroking, i'm not too lean.
Gonna change to 50/1 after a few more hours use.
Heat cycling is not required for a good break-in with these engines.
These things aint so delicate, as long as the fuel/air mix isn't too lean.
I'll keep yall posted
Upon first start, I immediatly went to WOT, but I let off at about 10mph, coasted down real slow an full bore to 10 mph or so, for a couple munites to warm it up good.
Then I flogged it hard, up and down a 1/2 mile hill, over and over for one hour, no cooldown except for taking it easy on the downhiill run the first 5 or 6 runs .
I did keep the stock slightly rich 4 stroking original clip positon during break-in.
After 3 one hour sessions, I dropped the needle one notch and it runs perfect now. Good plug read and very, very slight 4 stroking at WOT.
I figure if I hear a little 4 stroking, i'm not too lean.
Gonna change to 50/1 after a few more hours use.
Heat cycling is not required for a good break-in with these engines.
These things aint so delicate, as long as the fuel/air mix isn't too lean.
I'll keep yall posted
Last edited:
SlowBalt
Member
Ditto.....
Hey wayne, how did this work out with that engine? Is she still running? I've been reading a lot of different techniques for breaking the engines in. I'm receiving my first kit soon and trying to get an idea how to break it in for long term reliability.
I'm giving you a link to proper break in methods, http://spookytoothcycles.com/help-and-info/frequently-asked-questions/30-faq12.html but first let me tell you what I did. First, tried mixing the oil and gas in the tank - big mistake. I poured the oil in first, then the gas, and that caused engine failure because the oil clogged the carb and I had to take the carb apart and clean it.
Next mistake: I tried running it like it was already broken in. I ran it uphil the first time I used it at WOT. Big no-no. As you can see from the attached link, you have to let the piston rings and bearings seat properly, and you should not "flog it hard" up any hills. You shouldn't even be going up any hills during break-in, period!
I ran it like Wayne here, for periods of up to an hour and even more. At first, it ran well, but then the problems began. I noticed I was getting poor acceleration after traffic stops. Some people told me it was the CNS carb's fault, especially when I mentioned the performance would improve AFTER I shut off the fuel line..but only for a few seconds. Then a mechanic told me I had poor compression, and a gasket had been blown. I had to replace the head and cylinder gaskets, the cylinder, the piston and the rings. Oil was leaking out from the gaskets.
Three one hour sessions at break-in is crazy. Always running at full throttle does not leave enough time for the oil mixed in the gas to circulate around the engine and lubricate the cylinder wall and lower engine bearings.
Also, with the engine running, always pedal away from a stop before releasing the clutch to assist the motor. How many people disregard that and then end up having problems later?
Next mistake: I tried running it like it was already broken in. I ran it uphil the first time I used it at WOT. Big no-no. As you can see from the attached link, you have to let the piston rings and bearings seat properly, and you should not "flog it hard" up any hills. You shouldn't even be going up any hills during break-in, period!
I ran it like Wayne here, for periods of up to an hour and even more. At first, it ran well, but then the problems began. I noticed I was getting poor acceleration after traffic stops. Some people told me it was the CNS carb's fault, especially when I mentioned the performance would improve AFTER I shut off the fuel line..but only for a few seconds. Then a mechanic told me I had poor compression, and a gasket had been blown. I had to replace the head and cylinder gaskets, the cylinder, the piston and the rings. Oil was leaking out from the gaskets.
Three one hour sessions at break-in is crazy. Always running at full throttle does not leave enough time for the oil mixed in the gas to circulate around the engine and lubricate the cylinder wall and lower engine bearings.
Also, with the engine running, always pedal away from a stop before releasing the clutch to assist the motor. How many people disregard that and then end up having problems later?
Last edited by a moderator:
crassius
Well-Known Member
There are probably diffs between oils & engines, but I always use 16:1 for 2 gals, then 32:1 thereafter. I always start a new engine for a few minutes with no load at fast idle, then shut it down to cool, then repeat 3 more times before running it on the road. On the road, never run at one speed (slightly speed up then slow down) and never run at WOT till third tank of gas.
Has so far worked well for me.
Has so far worked well for me.
Didn't mean to bash anybody. Just offered my take on the advice given by Wayne. I think the moderator is too trigger happy but whatever. There is a lot of different and often conflicting advice offered here on a lot of things and if you're a newbie like me you can end up following bad advice and ruin your cylinder like I did. And btw, that is NOT an opinion about proper break in and what Wayne did to his motor is GUARANTEED to scar the cylinder and blow compression. Then you'll be mad at him, not me. Worse, the manual that comes in the box tells you very little about proper break in. Then what do you do? You just voided the warranty and have a 25 lb. paperweight.
Maybe you should read our rules regarding respect for others> http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=2
You can disagree all you want but use a little discretion with your choice of words and how you say what you mean. Other people have feelings. respect them.
Tom
crassius
Well-Known Member
Wickedest1
Member
i am not sure if the kits themselves are warrantied by the manufacturer but i know that bikeberry does offer a 6 month warranty on pretty much anything they sell...do a little research and youll see that certain vendors offer different things for the same kits...some warranty their stuff others dont...like fleabay
but i used 16:1 for the first 2 gallons on my last bike then went to 24:1 and it popped...im gonna gor for 24:1 with this new flying horse kit...i think...
Last edited: