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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by GothTech, Jun 19, 2010.
my Bearing Chain Tensioner seems to be tie but the chain on top has to much slack please help
You have to shorten the chain. Did you do that already? Look for the master link which allows you to undo the chain, then, using a chain breaker, adjust the length of the chain, and then use the master link again to close it up. It's easy. Just make sure you don't make it too short. Measure twice and cut once!
it seems to tie all the way around it then in one place it seems to have to much slack so it mite be the master link?
I highly doubt that the master link by itself is causing your problems.
Can you post pictures?
If it is loose only in one spot, it could be that the chain links are too stiff in one area of the chain to let it flex properly, or it could be that the rear sprocket is not centered on the wheel.
Also in some cases the sprocket teeth on the engine and/ or rear wheel have a bit of manufacturing burrs on them and this will cause the chain to ride up on the tips of the sprocket teeth instead of down in the valleys like it should.
Carefully watch the chain as it travels around both sprockets to see if it is doing this.
You will have to remove the engine sprocket cover to do this on that sprocket.
If it is happening, use a file and file down the teeth on the sides only, not in the valleys to very slightly thin the teeth so the chain will slip onto the teeth easier. Usually you do not need to do the whole tooth length, just the outer ends.
Is the sprocket on the rear wheel perfectly centered, if not this will cause the slack at one point and then it will get tight at another.
Rear sprocket must be centered or you will have big time trouble....
i looked at it today and its not centered right how do i fix this problem ??
Check out one of Norm's threads, start at post# 2 and read on down. He details it very well.
I purchased a #41 chain but it did not come with a master link, I have a chain breaker but the pin does not push thru all the way. Anyway to reconnect without a master link?
A master link is the only safe and reliable way to go. Any shade tree methods can put you and the bikes health in jeopardy.
FWIW, alot of chain breakers will not push the pin clear through the link. Sometimes you need to push out the 2 pins on the link you need removed and take off the side plate to slip the chain apart.
Use a pin punch to tap the pin the rest of the way out.
well i found what the problem was when i had the spocket installed my rim was not trued up right well 3 weeks ago i got hit by a car and i took my rims in to the bike shop here in town to have them trued and so i took the rim off my bike and the bolts where loose after having the rim trued up and so i tien them up and seems to be find but one more thing with this work as a idler for my chain AZ2187 - Heavy Duty Idler/Tensioner Sprockets-1/2" Prec Ball Bearing. #40/41 Chain
gothtec...if you decide to go with the tension sprocket shown above..lets us know how it works...i've seen this on other bikes and it seems it would work great...Dennis...oh...thanks for the pic and site...
i just ordered one today i was asking if it would work i geuss ill find out when it gets here
yes it will work...now what chain are you using on the motor...415 or #41...i use both and they work on the kit sprockets...the one you ordered for the tensioner is for#41 chain...the chain is wider than the 415...so make sure when you get your tension bearing the chain fits it...Dennis
its kind of funny how things work out my 415 chain broke about two days ago and i ordered the 41 chain and thats the one i ordered for my bike is the spocket
im done with this thing im sick of it and any one who wants it can come to Conyers ga and get it here is my mobile # 678-651-4541
do you have a big hammer or saw...have some fun...or send it to that guy on tv that cuts everything into to see how they work...when your finished take some pictures and post them...