Engine runs good. I put in new points and condenser for a hotter spark. I tricky shimmed the holder for the condenser/one half the points. It was not lined up right with the movable point. I used soda can cut up and got it right on.
So the valves adjusted, points for spark adjusted, and would you know it ran for a while with the old carb, but then stopped altogether. The flywheel key was half squished. I noticed a scrape on it earlier and bone head did not act on preventive maintenance. It also may had also been the main problem after first trying to get the valves adjusted and the kick back did adversely dent the flywheel key which even though still was running compounded problems.
Multiple problems... yep! I used the new intake valve and adjusted both intake and exhaust. New electrical and used sand paper and wire brush and external start tooth washers. Goop and potted wires and connections.
Purrs nice and idles slow no stalling.
The damn carb I got that had the leak at first I don't know if I'll keep even though I adjusted the float valve and got it to stop leaking. I'll try it out too, but if it runs OK, I guess I fixed the new part and maybe for 18 bucks just keep it as a spare.
If the guy on Ebay says I have to pay return shipping for if it starts leaking again or something else, I guess I can cut my losses. I asked for a rebuild kit for the washers and stuff, but maybe the guy will just allow full return of all costs. It is not that I really need the carb now, don't like that I spend 2 bucks on gaskets for a new item that leaks from the get go. If it works just a little better than the Briggs no adjustment carb, then maybe it is worth keeping.
I'll see about getting a video, actually mostly just sound, as it was at night and no tri-pod.
MT