adjusting the clutchs spring for more tension

Nice. However, mine seems alright right out of the box. However, mine squeaks and squeals. Metal on metal somewhere in the case. Where does the grease go?
 
If your hearing squealing noises take the clutch arm cover off, it is the cover over the front sprocket. inside is a short shaft for the clutch and behind the short shaft is a single steel ball. Remove the shaft and ball wipe them both off clean grease both well reinstall them and grease the clutch arm while your at it. You should be good to go.
Those two parts will run dry of grease often and when they do they will squeal like 5ell telling you they need attention.
Norman
 
Norman said:
here I'm doing the tightening of the spring you might need help holding the tool into the tabs while you rotate the sprocket nut to the right which will put more pressure on the spring and more pressure on the clutch see the spark plug tool being used as it fits the nut on the front sprocket. I also removed the spark plug don't need it starting up and it will easier to turn. in this picture I'm holding the retainer with a punch.
clutchspringtightening020.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi Norman,

My clutch lever is still a bit hard to squeeze, I've read somewhere that this can be solved using the method above. Loosening the retainer on the clutch spring.

I was thinking, without opening the clutch covers, I will use an allen wrench(or screw driver) to poke on the retainer, then roll the bike wheel forward? or backward?

Will this work?

Very much appreciated on your reply.

Jeco
 
to tighten the clutch spring turn the sprocket /nut clockwise.
I don't know if it will make the clutch lever any easier to pull but if you loosen the spring a little to much your clutch will start slipping.
some people modify the clutch release arm.
to do that modification you remove the front sprocket cover and remove the clutch arm on the bottom of the arm is a sort of a cam and you file or grind that cam a little to smooth the ramp on the cam some say it makes the clutch pull easier.
 
Thanks for the repair manual!

Just did the modification to the clutch - works perfect now. The clutch doesn't slip anymore. I did it in an easier way. I removed the carb, clutch cable mount and spark plug. I put a slot screwdriver in the hole and rolled the bike backwards until I felt one of the four slots. Then I rolled the bike a bit backwards (around 2-3 meter) while holding the screwdriver in there. With this method it's not required to unmount the front sprocket.
 
If you look closely I didn't remove the front sprocket either. I just used the spark plug wrench on the front sprocket nut.
Glad you got your clutch working good.
 
All I have is this chain grease that I use on the 415 chain, will a touch of that be ok or will it not be enough?
 
You never greased the bearings? Does it have a coaster brake? Those are said to need periodic maintenance. I have never used chain lube on one. How ever I have to say it would not hurt and anything helps. Bearing grease is really cheap only like 5 dollars.

I would say if its all ya got I would defiantly without a doubt use it tho. That is certainly not going to hurt anything.
 
Did you oil the clutch cable before using it the first time?
I hope you didn't tie wrap the cable down to where its binding the inner cable.
The cable has to be free to move.
Some times the formed lead end will bind in the lever's socket and even the lever will bind if the you tighten the bolt too tight on the clutch lever pivot.
 
Norman first off "THANK YOU SO MUCH SIR ! For taking thew time to help us all out with those nice clear pictures I greatly appreciate it immensely. Now that being said ....a picture is worth a thousand black & white crappy diagrams
 
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One thing I notice people with the round clutch pads "Like me" seem to have more issues than the folks with the square pads . Any one else notice that? ?







I removed your double post.
I've never gave round vs square pads any thought mostly because I don't have any round pads on any of my clutches. Could be the contact surface area is larger on the square pads?
 
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My clutch pressure plate has funky action. When it disengages the play action is crooked. One side still rubbing on pads. I have done flower nut adjustments to the point where clutch slips when engaged. Do I loosen the inner clutch spring a touch? Beef up (replace with higher gauge spring, already tried stretching it)the clutch release spring so it clears the pad. Clean then grease the internal clutch parts? REplace ball bearing after push rod? If I need a new clutch kit should I go to the centrifical clutch? For my son less clutch action to worry about the better.
 
I love that advise from the manufacturer "Hit it hard with a hammer"

We have plenty of spare parts here at the warehouse! Some times that's what it takes though.
 
So I replaced one of the bearings on the clutch rod.

Once I put everything back together, I've noticed my bucking bar sticks out a good half inch more than it did before. The other side (the screw that the flower nut goes on) is just the same as it was though.

Any suggestion as to how to fix this? It's almost like I have two ball bearings in the clutch rod assembly, but I only have one of those bearing balls.
 
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