54 Schwinn 24'' DX My Next Race Bike
- Thread starter msrfan
- Start date
I just communicated with Danny at 3D and his E-Z Pull lever has the pivot closer to the cable end that does mostly what my modification did. I may end up with his lever. He also suggested a spring added to my lever to get a stronger clutch feel, so I installed a spring in the cable. Now I think it's just right. I hope all this info helps someone else in their 3D instsllation. Although A larger 4 stroke should be just fine without mods.
Real nice job on the modification. Would you be able to tell me what the ratio's of your current clutch lever are? I'd like to know distance between the pivot and the cable barrel, and also distance between the pivot and right around where your ring finger would be on the lever. Curious to know how close your ratios are to the EZ pull lever we sell.
Sure. Lever pivot to cable barrel around 1.065, pivot to ring finger 3.753 or so and clutch center to cable stop barrel approx. 2.835.
Thanks for the info. Here is the specs for our EZ pull lever:Sure. Lever pivot to cable barrel around 1.065, pivot to ring finger 3.753 or so and clutch center to cable stop barrel approx. 2.835.
Distance between pivot and ring finger: 5"
Distance between pivot and cable barrel: 3/4"
The EZ pull lever gives about 6.6:1 ratio between movement of the lever and rotation of the actuator.
Your setup without the extension provided a 3.5:1 ratio. With the extension, you're at 7.7:1.
I'm sure that given your low power output, the 7.7:1 ratio is a huge advantage.
I just received my new levers from 3D Motorsports. Quality is tops. One has a locking button for the clutch and I'm using the regular one for more leverage on my front brake, plus they match. I'm going to try to install a spring on the lock out lever to return it to unlocked position so it will snap back on it's own instead of having to push it the opposite way to release.
I decided I was tired of chain maintenance and oil everywhere and I'm in the process of changing it to belt drive. I started by grinding the teeth off the clutch sprocket and turning it down to accept a 2 1/2'' pulley that I pressed on. Then I removed the sprockets from the jack shaft and rear hub and replaced them with a Whizzer sheave on the back and 2 more pulleys on the shaft, a 2 1/2'' and a 5''. I chose pulleys that almost match my original overall drive ratio. Modified the fender for belt clearance and measured for new ones. So McMaster Carr is delivering 25'' primary and 63'' final drive belts. I also had to dimple the frame tubes for belt clearance using my home made dimpler.
