I like Schwalbe allot. I compromised comfort for performance. I have never had tires that grip pavement like the 60a Maxxis Hookworm. They seem to stop and corner better.
4 stroke with sickbikeparts jackshaft
- Thread starter toker_ace
- Start date
Hookworms are a pretty soft tire too. Personally, I'd rather have comfort. I plan on taking long trips with this bike, so I need as much comfort as I can get, without sacrificing a whole lotta performance. 50mph gets me on the rural highways and back roads, which I can use to get from state to state.
Is 3 D still in business? Several posts awhile back indicated their not. I like the clutch & hope they are still around for us guys that like pedal bump starts over pull.
I just went 203mm rear on my hybrid and still running 160 mm rotor front, but am leaning to 180mm, mechanical Avid for the front. My Simplex has 160mm front and rear 80mph bike with 12.5 hp and 5 speed wet clutch transmission/kick start. weighs 175 lbs. It stops but I'll eventually go dual rotor 203mm on front and single203mm on rear...both hydraulic when I add the sidecar, which will also have a disc brake.
My hybrid makes 5 + hp with a reed modified, third transfer port and window piston China girl (and a lot of other mods) to make it go plus the ehub equal a 40 mph cruiser, without high rpms. It really needed decent braking and that's still a work in progress. I'm running 38 tooth and 2.2" Maxxi Holyrollers at 65 lb. pressure.
Rick C.
I just went 203mm rear on my hybrid and still running 160 mm rotor front, but am leaning to 180mm, mechanical Avid for the front. My Simplex has 160mm front and rear 80mph bike with 12.5 hp and 5 speed wet clutch transmission/kick start. weighs 175 lbs. It stops but I'll eventually go dual rotor 203mm on front and single203mm on rear...both hydraulic when I add the sidecar, which will also have a disc brake.
My hybrid makes 5 + hp with a reed modified, third transfer port and window piston China girl (and a lot of other mods) to make it go plus the ehub equal a 40 mph cruiser, without high rpms. It really needed decent braking and that's still a work in progress. I'm running 38 tooth and 2.2" Maxxi Holyrollers at 65 lb. pressure.
Rick C.
I've used Fat Franks over the years and really like them on the street. I've got a couple of sets that haven't been mounted yet...got a deal! Nice classic brick pattern. Quality tire.
Rick C.
They actually look wider when mounted and of course they actually sit wider when mounted on wide wheels 2.125" compared to skinny rims...this has caused some builders problems with chain clearance, especially with China girl engines on kit builds, especially rag joint builds but also some hub adapter sprocket mounts too. I'd think this not an issue with your current project, just a heads up.
The Fat Frank mount well and run higher pressure too. I think you will be pleased with your choice.
Rick C.
The Fat Frank mount well and run higher pressure too. I think you will be pleased with your choice.
Rick C.
Luckily, my fender fits a 2.35 tire, so I'll get a lot of metal noise if I have clearance issues. I'm thinking 45-50psi will suit nicely for a combination of grip and efficiency.
https://3dmotorsport.net/products/3dma-racing-clutch-3-4
Shows they still up and on the site? I remember that post and looked right away, a piers the same. Don't know why that guy posted, i like what msrfan did with his, he advised them on some improvements. He is in CA. and they ride a lot and its worked out well.........Curt
Shows they still up and on the site? I remember that post and looked right away, a piers the same. Don't know why that guy posted, i like what msrfan did with his, he advised them on some improvements. He is in CA. and they ride a lot and its worked out well.........Curt
I'm gonna use that for my stingray build. I'm planning on using a 198cc direct drive with a peerless 5 speed transmission, so that clutch will come in handy. Most especially with the e-start. Thanks curtis.
I am not sure how your gearing works. Do you have more than one front chain ring? I am keeping the mags because they seem to be more stable going down very steep hills 40 to 45mph.
Just a theory: I think the weight of heaver bikes dampens most types of vibration including high speed and engine vibration. I could be wrong just my observation
I do not understand. Are you taking about the output shaft adapter for doing a TAV2 or similar install? Sorry I am still learning.
A lot of the small engines crank shaft is only 5/8" so need to have the sleeve to make it 3/4" to fit clutch bore......Look like this, only think you can get them a little cheaper if you snoop........Curt
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Pulley-Reducer-Sleeve-Bushing/dp/B01FDZWFFE
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Pulley-Reducer-Sleeve-Bushing/dp/B01FDZWFFE
Yes, I am using both chainrings provided in the SBP shift kit bolted onto the freewheel they also provide. I recommend swapping out the bolts they provide for some better grade 8 bolts from home depot.
Mag wheels will allow the tires to absorb road vibrations better, but that is the extent of their advantage. They are significantly heavier than spoked wheels, and thus require stronger brakes and more engine torque to turn at the same speed. Spoked wheels will accelerate faster and roll faster for the same amount of torque. You do have it right though, they are more stable at high speeds due to the increased rotational mass and inertia.
I'm looking for lash clearance specs for my 79cc 4 Stroke engine... anyone able to help me out?
I wish we had a good sticky on how to do valve lash.
If a "160mm front and rear 80mph bike with 12.5 hp" can stop 203mm would be overkill for me. Good chance a bike with that kind of power is also heavier.
All the more reason to have a 203 on the front at least. You want to be able to do emergency stops. Im doing a 203mm with Shimano SLX hydro on the front and a 180mm with a mechanical hydro on the rear when I build the stingray.
Thanks Curt I bought a 3-D but let a friend use it on a go cart (20+hp) and it's worked great. I bought it in anticipation of building a bump start 212 Predator but didn't happen yet.
Rick C.
Yes it's about 190 lbs and has a 53" wheelbase and yes your correct weight tends to smooth things out on well designed bikes & fabricated rides, but excess un-sprung weight is never a good thing in and of itself. Weight with purpose such as improved strength and/or rigidity, as examples, is ok as long as it's located as low as possible and doesn't significantly alter the correct weight balance front to rear with rider mounted.
Brakes stop eventually, but note that I'm going much bigger on rotors with my Simplex and larger rotors are better on any bike regardless of weight and stop quicker. Big (203mm) dual rotor up front really stop the heavier builds and are popular with chopper style builds with built motors especially. They don't really look classic on vintage style bikes but they dang sure work well!
Rick C.