2010 Specialized HardRock
- Thread starter Dave31
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Went for a little night ride and tried some trail riding at night. I think trail riding is best left for day light. It was a bit difficult with limited light.
Went for a little night ride and tried some trail riding at night. I think trail riding is best left for day light. It was a bit difficult with limited light.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Was wanting to try out my new camera (Sanyo VPC-T1495) at night. They did not come out so good. Think I need a tripod or something. My other camera took way better night photos.
Was wanting to try out my new camera (Sanyo VPC-T1495) at night. They did not come out so good. Think I need a tripod or something. My other camera took way better night photos.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Had this wheel for a customer, she decided she did not want it so instead of trying to sell it to recoup my money I think I'll keep it and give it a try.
It's a 26" Alex Supra D
Had this wheel for a customer, she decided she did not want it so instead of trying to sell it to recoup my money I think I'll keep it and give it a try.
It's a 26" Alex Supra D
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Here's a photo from my recent fishing trip, I hit three urban lakes in Tucson. Did not catch anything but I had fun.
Here's a photo from my recent fishing trip, I hit three urban lakes in Tucson. Did not catch anything but I had fun.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Finally getting around to adding a rear disc, figured if I was gonna swap the wheel out now is the time to do it. Here is just the mock up, hopefully I can make it work.
Finally getting around to adding a rear disc, figured if I was gonna swap the wheel out now is the time to do it. Here is just the mock up, hopefully I can make it work.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
On the stand everything seems to work right, still have a few things here and there but hopefully it will work as well on the road as it does on the bike stand.
On the stand everything seems to work right, still have a few things here and there but hopefully it will work as well on the road as it does on the bike stand.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
A little over 20 miles on it and so far working great! What a huge improvement over what i had before the difference is really noticeable.
I was only able to get about half the pad on the rotor due to space. So I am not sure how well it will work long term but anything is a better then what I had. If I have to replace pads and rotors a little sooner then normal not a bad trade off for way better braking in my opinion.
Next I would like to get a matching front wheel. I am really liking this Supra D its way better wheel then what my bike came with. Also I want to go to 203mm brakes up front and go hydraulic front and rear.
A little over 20 miles on it and so far working great! What a huge improvement over what i had before the difference is really noticeable.
I was only able to get about half the pad on the rotor due to space. So I am not sure how well it will work long term but anything is a better then what I had. If I have to replace pads and rotors a little sooner then normal not a bad trade off for way better braking in my opinion.
Next I would like to get a matching front wheel. I am really liking this Supra D its way better wheel then what my bike came with. Also I want to go to 203mm brakes up front and go hydraulic front and rear.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
Front brake upgrade from a 160mm (6") rotor to a 203mm (8") rotor.
Front brake upgrade from a 160mm (6") rotor to a 203mm (8") rotor.
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So far the 203 up front and 180 in the rear is working great! I am having the chain get into the rear caliper a little but it does not look like its going to be anything to be concerned about.
One thing I did figure out is for the rear I don't have the room for a hydraulic caliper....yet.
One thing I did figure out is for the rear I don't have the room for a hydraulic caliper....yet.
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Re: 2010 HardRock
I also switched out to Intermediate pads instead of the harder ones. I think that made more of a effect with the brake squeal rather then a bigger rotor. But I am also having to use way less brake pressure to stop my bike with the bigger brakes. I am sure that's also helping eliminate any brake squeal.
Finally after going from the 160 rotor to a 203 rotor my brake squeal is gone. It was starting to get annoying.
I also switched out to Intermediate pads instead of the harder ones. I think that made more of a effect with the brake squeal rather then a bigger rotor. But I am also having to use way less brake pressure to stop my bike with the bigger brakes. I am sure that's also helping eliminate any brake squeal.
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I will never build another motorized bicycle for myself without disc front and rear...its that good!
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That is a way cool build...I have the hard rock specialized also it doesn't have the front fork suspension or the disk brakes. I was told that's like a $500 bike. It is a nice bike for sure peddles pretty easy. I'm just wondering if the differences is due to the year model? Did you add the front fork and disk brake?
No I did not George the bike came with 160mm Tecktro disc brakes front and rear, as well as the forks.
The front forks are SR Suntour XCT-V2, all admit they are not the greatest but better then nothing.
The photo is from when I just brought it home from the bike shop.
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Well darn! My paint is starting to bubble and peel off my seat tube.
Think I will wait for the rest of the bike to get more scratched then go with that raw aluminum look.
Think I will wait for the rest of the bike to get more scratched then go with that raw aluminum look.
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Hi Dave! That thing looks hot!!! You do sheet metal and welding? Reason I ask is, I see a lot expansion chambers being used out there. Built my first one from scratch 45 years ago, and used to have the formulas for very specific tuning. Almost any expansion chamber, however, is a big improvement over a muffler, you know well, I see. Straight though/glass pack silencers are also the norm. When I was racing all those years ago, I integrated the glass pack by welding a sheet metal cylinder from the fat part of the pipe to the end of the stinger, perforate the stinger, pack it, and cap it. This saves some space and is quieter. BUT, I was still looking for less noise on my enduro/crosscountry bikes. Instead of perforating the stinger, and packing, I simply capped the cylinder and welded a second stinger sized pipe extending anywhere from 5 to 7 inches into the cylinder. These pipes actually were pretty pleasant sounding, AND boosted mid range torque very well. I used this design on my Stihl 23cc. If you want all out speed, keep the glass packs, if you're going trail or urban, try the baffle can. Happy building/riding.
Thank You Buzz. Yes I do a little sheet metal and welding. I've only made three expansion chambers from scratch in all my years though. Most of the stuff I have done is modding what I already have.
This pipe on the Hardrock was really close to what I wanted and needed. All I did to it was add a longer header for a little more torque.
This pipe on the Hardrock was really close to what I wanted and needed. All I did to it was add a longer header for a little more torque.
my friend just sold me a front disk wheel a rear caset and he trew the 203 rotor for free for the wheel and caset i paid 50 bucks its going on my new bike that i building little by little its a 99 cc predator with the governor agk jackshaft and a 56 rear sproket cant wait to get her done