100:1 Mix

[NYNEOMITE]

Didn't think I would have anything to add to 20 pages of oil discussion but...
I called a couple lawn mower shops to find Opti 2. Neither had it but the second shop does not recommend it. He found over the years that if an engine had used it in the past than it always needed to use it. He had several engine seizures when people had switched. I asked then if it was good for our engines. He said it was probably great, but he won't carry it because he doesn't want his customers to switch back and forth.

He said to tell you guys "if you use it, keep using it"

So, it sounds just fine to me. Great results, great price per gallon, why switch back to anything else.

On a random note - what color is the fuel after mixed?

*Note - I am just saying what he said. His whole life he has been repairing lawn mowers. He was speaking from experience. Could have been a million other issues that we could all argue about here. It's not like he was knocking the product, he just won't carry it in his store because of issues he has had with engines that used it in the past.

 

[2door]

That's interesting input, and it might have some validity. There used to be a product out there, sorry, can't recall the name,was in the 60s, but it was formulated to quiet noisy hydraulic lifters. It worked great, as long as you used it but if you stopped using it the lifters would collapse requiring replacement. The concept isn't the same but I'm not going to be the one to test the theory. My engines are running great on the Opti-2 and unless it is no longer available I'll keep using it. By the way; Opti is blue and your fuel mix will be too.
Tom

 

[NYNEOMITE]

Just talked to Opti to find a local reseller. I would recommend it just based on their customer service. He called a couple resellers just to get the size I needed. Heck of a nice guy - and I'm not just saying that since I sent him this link

 

[bairdco]

you're right about the customer service. the guy i called (Brad? maybe?) was really helpful, and looked up a bunch of dealers, asked me if i was interested in becoming a dealer (that would be great, but it'd mess up my unemployment...) and told me Ace hardware just signed a big contract.

not too often someone out there takes the time to talk to their customers, especially to a guy who wants something for a suped up toy bicycle.

 

[2door]

you're right about the customer service. the guy i called (Brad? maybe?) was really helpful, and looked up a bunch of dealers, asked me if i was interested in becoming a dealer (that would be great, but it'd mess up my unemployment...) and told me Ace hardware just signed a big contract.

not too often someone out there takes the time to talk to their customers, especially to a guy who wants something for a suped up toy bicycle.

Brad Clark, and he is the national sales manager, if I recall. Yes it is refreshing to actaully talk to someone who seems genuinely interested in his customers. He's the man I spoke to and gave me the name of a local dealer, a rental place that uses Opti-2 exclusively in his 2 and 4 cycle rental tools.
Tom

 

[bairdco]

we need to make brad an honorary member of this forum.

 

[wjliebhauser]

What a great discussion. Just some thoughts; 'oil makes it run hotter'...well, maybe to a point; I have never done the experimenting described. But just as a caution, try running a 2-cycle with no oil (hey, it was an accident!) and I promise you, it was not running cool when I finally shut it down. Compression was then so bad, it would only start and run if I put 10:1 mix in (trashed rings, cracked). Just a high oil ratio can compensate for bad rings to some extent...e.g. the 2 cans of STP I add to the 40W in my old Jeep until I get the ambition to overhaul...4cycle, but same issue; extra oil in the game keeps gas from blowing by the rings...

I wonder if the mixed results with the 100:1 has a bit to do with the inconsistency of the Chinese engines? The problems 2door described also could be classic crank bearing tightness/lack of lube. At 100:1, there isn't that much lube left to find its way onto the crank. A motor with better (or even sloppier) bearing clearance might not be affected.

After looking at the Opti site, looks like part of their gig is similar to the idea behind Slick50 and similar engine treatments. That is, a formula that at least theoretically creates or catalyzes a metal distribution or redistribution to fill in gaps and remove peaks. I still haven't decided whether the Slick50 I have used did any good or not. Anyone ever try it on a China bike engine?

And the SeaFoam carbon remover is a higher-cost trick several old wrenches I knew used to do with plain kerosene: if a head is carboned up, get engine warn, run it at high idle, pour kerosene slowly into the carb until the engine dies. Let it sit/soak overnight. Start next day and run; watch black and blue crap spew out the back, repeat as desired. It really does work!

Sounds like no 2 China engines are exactly the same, so folks should use what works and is comfortable for them.

I sure enjoy being able to soak up all the knowledge, ideas, and experiences from this group!

 

[restapukin]

I reckon you are not short on those qualities yersel', Captain

(salutes and departs stage left)

 

[wjliebhauser]

Thanks for the kind words, but ever sense I was about 16 (a very long time ago), I feel like there is less and less I actually know for sure and the more and more I need to listen and learn. Have a Merry Christmas!

 

[Pablo]

I would love to see a real unbiased shoot out with Amsoil Saber 100:1 vs. Opti2 100:1.

Them vs. maybe 4 or 5 other oils.

To be honest I have run Amsoil Saber 100:1 vs. Opti2 100:1. Neither were optimum in my engines - just not max power. I still like 32:1 with a race type mix, or 25:1 in really hot place. Dominator with castor is proving very hard to beat.

 

[wjliebhauser]

I'm curious, what advantage does castor oil have in the mix? I know as kids we used it in those little gas engine model planes, but we had to constantly clean the gummy residue out. But I'm not opposed to it (as long as I don't have to take any personally like Grandma said I should). What's it do for China engines?

 

[Pablo]

It adds that final boundary layer at the extremes that prevents seizure/wear and promotes the best ring seal. If used at low levels mixed with a synthetic racing oil, it seems to never cause any roux that I can see. I think the synthetic oil keeps it cleaned up well.

 

[2door]

I'm curious, what advantage does castor oil have in the mix? I know as kids we used it in those little gas engine model planes, but we had to constantly clean the gummy residue out. But I'm not opposed to it (as long as I don't have to take any personally like Grandma said I should). What's it do for China engines?

Makes your exhaust smell great.
Tom

 

[Pablo]

There is that!

I love the smell of raw 67cc of power and partially burned castor bean oil.

 

[Zenoptic]

I can't believe I read all that! Castor is the old school favorite! Have to clean the carbon out from time to time. Run motul in my Vespa, works great. I may sit on the fence on this 100:1 oil, for now.
What about Graphite as an additive? A chemist that i know that worked for ARCO back in the late 70S was testing their new graphite oil . They would run an engine for weeks and test the oil after . One day they decided to let an engine run after it was drained. It ran for many hours before any sign of seizing. However; the oil would find any little opening and leak where 10W40 would not. and this leaking was the reason the co gave for not bringing this oil to market. I have been putting Dry Graphite in my cars with each oil change for years with no bad problems.

 

[Pablo]

Graphite is conductive. Does not sound like a good idea for 2 stroke mix.

 

[B.C Rider]

Well I have 725km on a CH"80".
I did run it @ 16:1 only because Chris told me he would not warranty the thing if did anything different.
I have put 3 tanks through @ 20:1. Now I want top run Opti 2.
Here goes nothing.
Any input would be great.

 

[denali]

Ok, I just completed my MB with aHF 52cc water pump engine. So afyter reading all the posts on this greatest thing since high button shoes oil I decided to use opti2 oil. I bought 2 packets. One packet says, one packet per one gal. I added just a little from 2nd packet so I figure I am running abt 70-1 per gal. I thought a little extra for a brand new never run engine would not hurt. It smokes slightly but I attribute that to new engine, rings need to seat. I am by no means a mechanic!!!. I only took it for a short spin, abt 4 miles, Alittle cool here in Pa. I am however taking the bike along to FLa. and ride. I will be back in about a month and report back here a update. So far it ran great. So brand new engine with opti2, we will see. Pat

 

[NEAT TIMES]

denali, glad to hear it is running well, it has warmed up here, but now rain and clouds. ron

 

[wjliebhauser]

I'm going to start adding a little castor oil, and may experiment with some kerosene too, to fight carbon. My majority of 2 cycle experience comes from chainsaws from my logging days. Guys used to run some kerosene in the mix to keep the carbon and gum out, I just don't recall castor. Maybe senile... Of course, there were no synthetics then. The notion of no smoke from a 2 cycle? That used to mean you forgot to put oil in and that thought usually came to you about 30 seconds before you were hiking back to the crummy carrying your dead saw to fetch your back-up saw, and cussing what you'd be doing that weekend instead of fishing - rebuilding the saw! Normally, especially under load, and more especially if you were using a little kerosene, there was SMOKE!

Anyway, are folks successfully running 'no smoke' bike engines on the new synthetics lke Opti? I'm sure my neighbors nd the greenies around town would be happier.