More Maytag Mayhem

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cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Seems I have a problem with moving on to the next project before finishing the last one. I have the E trike finally painted and on the way to assembly. Finished and painted the tandem I built when I should have been working on the E trike! While looking for stored parts I came across my two Maytag engines in the shed sitting next to a vintage Hawthorne step thru frame, pretty much in the configuration as in the pic. The proverbial light bulb lit up. A longitudinally mounted twin friction drive!
So heres the scoop. Gonna mount the engine with out the integral fuel tank and remove the cooling fan and ring from the flywheel. This will get it pretty low in the frame. Still need enough height to clear pedals though. The engine will be slightly offset to one side to drive the side wall of the tire. The opposing side will have a bearing idler on the tires side wall to counteract the drive loading. The engine will be hinged on its mount. While laying flat on the mount the roller will miss the side wall. I will have an engagement lever under the mount with a form of cam that will raise the engine which will arc it into the tire for engagement. Doesn't have to move much a 1/4-1/2" will do it.
The starter clutch in the pic will be replaced by a wooden roller, probably around 2 to 2.5"

Sounds simple right? It never is! Got to finish the E trike first-yeah, right!
 

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Ludwig II

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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I'm a terrible engineer, but even so, I'd be wondering about making a 90 degree drive to get a chain to the back wheel. Mind you, FD in a dry country sounds terribly attractive.

You may well be the first in the world to do it this way with a Maytag, so it would be a small place in the history books for you.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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What is going to determine if this build is doable is how well I can fit the Maytag into the frame. Will start by reducing the flywheel. That allows a drop of basically 3". Secondly how much offset is necessary. Would really love the engine centered. I may have a way to do that also by adding a 2" thick wall tube sectioned into the seat tube to allow the shaft to pass through. This of course requires an offset drive to get to the tire side wall, like gears. Love a challenge!
Am planning on modding the engine mildly. No governor or at least tweeked if possible to allow running in the in the mid 2k range. Will have a throttleable carb. Thinking of the common China Girl carb(know they are not great). This is an 80cc engine so the size is about right, plus the carb slides on to the manifold. Am thinking of a U shaped copper tube manifold with the carb over the engine between the cylinders.
If the engine fits nicely the rest I will work out. If I can find the right rim, a rim drive might be possible too. they are doing this on E bikes currently.

Flywheel mod soon.
 
C

curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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Do you have a picture of E bike? How about a chain saw carb with the high and low jets? Not the best looking but really more funtional.............KOOOOOL.............Curt
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Curt, couldn't locate the set up for sale on ebay. Listing must be ended. Was pretty cool. had two brushless motors driving from opposing sides on the bikes rear rims with rubber rollers. As I remember the whole affair attached to the seat post. Was very well made, nice CNC stuff.
Will probably stick with driving the side walls as there is much more area. Its funny shopping for tires for an FD based on side wall construction instead of tread design. Looks like the standard cruiser tire is still the best.
Using a chain saw type carb is a good option especially if the tank winds up low since there is a fuel pump. However the standard CG carb looks the part, and has easy cable hook up. Also the jetting is easy to change just by soldering and re-drilling with my jet drills. Plus they are pretty cheap. I don't think the Maytag will be real picky/demanding being its such a low tuned engine.
Have to correct the drop on the flywheel mod it only 1.5" not 3. The overall clearance is 3". Hope I can stuff the engine nicely in the frame. Its what esthetically makes or breaks the build. Remains to be seen.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Got the build mocked up to the point I see no reason not to go on with it. I liberated the flywheel and removed the starter clutch. Is obvious in the pics the engine needs raising a bit. I am hoping to use the existing Maytag upper gas tank plate which incorporates the motor mount. Will cut it down to all but the center section. This will mount to mounts on the frame-if it works out as I hope. If not will fab whatever it takes.
Am definitely going to pass the crank thru the seat post to keep the engine centered. I have several drive ideas kicking around. Its a figure it as you go build, my general mode of operation.
Interestingly this engine comes from mid year 1951. Production ceased in 1952 due to the fact the REAs were rapidly electrifying the rural areas eliminating the need for the little gasoline suds shakers. I lived in the rural SE in the 50s my whole life and never saw a gas Maytag washer. My friends and I were gear heads from an early age and would certainly have begged to do the laundry get to get some hands on with the cute little thing!
 

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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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WOW! Are you going to use a right angle drive?............Curt

I think i might have to find a Maytag engine
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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No Curt right now its smoke and mirrors-lol. I have a couple of ideas but wont know which way to go until the engine is in place. Made the frame into a roller so I can set things level and establish pedal clearances etc. Figured out to extract a bottom bracket tube from an old frame I have to make the crank pass thru in the seat post. On the way to the Depot for supplies to lay out the motor mount.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Ok heres a few pics of the proof of concept so to speak. Ignore just about every clamp I have holding it together. Am amazed it fit so low in the frame. Will go lower but pedal clearance would get critical, its good right now. Obviously its not centered now, once the mounts are finalized the seat tube will be cut and a 2" rigid EMT connector will be welded in. Found these at the Depot. Very stout, thicker than a BB tube.
Will need a 7/8 shaft coupler to extend the crank-details, details.
I like it so far.
 

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NEAT TIMES

NEAT TIMES

New Member
May 28, 2008
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CB2

That is a challenge, but that is where you shine. About interesting as it can get.

Are you going to knurl the crankshaft or wrap it? The bottom bracket is cool idea.

Ron
 
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cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Thanks all for the kind comments and interest!

I have suffered a major reversal in the build. Literally. The engine must be reversed in the frame in order for the roller to turn the proper direction. I arrived at a belt driven mule drive to change the 90 degrees to drive a roller on the tread of the tire. Very common in lawn equipment. I am going to have to miniaturize it here though to get it to fit nicely. Seat tube wont have to me modded this way.
The roller will be mounted as close to the cranks centerline as fits, in front of the wheel. Havent figured out if the roller will stay fixed or move to tension the belt. Will have some method of tensioning some where.
Will run the stock Maytag flywheel pulley as the driver and add another to the bare crank end for starting, the crank will be shortened to a minimum. I really believe I could start it by hand spinning the flywheel. Maybe it will roll start, though I have never had much luck with my FDs doing that. If it will, I will cut the crank flush.

All in all I thinks it looks pretty good reversed. Will have the carb in front now, so the head on view should be interesting being all cylinders and carb. Had to raise an inch but its still reasonable. Will probably need a guard on the lower half of the flywheel as the magnet retaining nuts(in pic) don't look too friendly!
Now to make it happen.
 

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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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That's the way Case/Ingersoll tractors are with the PTO on the flywheel end. and have left hand discharge shout on mower deck.

Looks Koool, maybe you could dream up some kind of tank or something to cover the crank insted of cutting it off................Curt
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
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Glad the mystery is solved for you Dan, looks like a strange way to drive something but works fine. My problem was finding pulleys small enough to fit in the confined space that is basically under the seat. I lucked upon V grooved bearings that are designed to slide along an edge. I haven't gotten them yet but the dimensions given look like they will just accommodate a 3/8 belt, sure hoping so.

Curt, figured if I can start the engine with out the front shaft it might look cool turning something. Think I have an unfinished model airplane aluminum spinner some where. Would look pretty cool with the shaft shortened to the engine, spinning away. Also thinking of the same thing with a silver dollar I have. I usually put a coin on a build some where. Also with out the shaft I can drop the engine back down a bit.
 
Dan

Dan

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May 25, 2008
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"Glad the mystery is solved for you Dan" Really did, CB. I was gonna make a worm gear! lol, would cost more then the engine and that's only with out any "oops"

If ya ever get really stuck for pulleys, I am set up and just started making my own. (5/8 shafts w/ 3/16 key ways) Just send me a chunk of aluminum. But postage would probably be more then you could buy one at a hardware store and a lot more than scavenged. I don't want any thing and would be happy to do it. Just need the particulars. angle, dia. etc.
 
NEAT TIMES

NEAT TIMES

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Ben

With your original FD idea, driving the other side of tire would have given correct rotation ?? But the BMW type of motor mounting looked shocking to me ! pun of coarse.

Your builds are always neat and very functional.
 
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