More Maytag Mayhem

[cannonball2]

Thanks for the offer Dan! Must be nice to make your own pulleys! I had the drive pulleys already, was the direction changing idlers I had to hunt for.

Your right NT! For some reason it seemed to me that since the pulley goes the same direction no matter what (which it does) that the engines rotation would have to be changed(turning 180), what matters is which side of the roller the pulley is on, very elementary! I don't know how I got off thinking on this. I guess thinking over too many drive scenarios. Correct me if Im wrong. With the fly wheel forward the roller should be driven with the pulley on the left side(bikes left) of the roller. Vice versa with the flywheel. at the rear? It appears I have options on how to place the motor----Opinions?

Wow Curt, exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks!

 

[NEAT TIMES]

Ben

It is a bit confusing some times, that is why NT burns up a lot of text so he can understand his "ownself" !

Hope to not offend or be pushy but too often maybe !!

If you mount motor with flywheel forward and slide motor to right so crankshaft drives the right side of rear wheel sidewall you would achieve desired rotation. the shaft coupler with set screws would give you close to 2" dia drive roller.

McMaster Carr will tell length and dia of 7/8"coupler. SH has been about $5.25 for my orders. Often order arrives next day, cheaper than 4x4 truck gas running around and risking life & liberty with all the Cage Drivers on cell phone.s

Wonder if you adding a BB forward of sparking plugs would keep you wife riding longer.

When a wee kid, was persuaded to whiz on electric fence, it still tingles when thinking of it.

NT

 

[silverbear]

Hey Ron,
You got conned into peeing on an electric fence, too, eh? Yes, memorable experience.
SB

 

[Dan]

shocking..

 

[cannonball2]

Truly an electrifying story!

So after thinking the drive over and even making a crude hands on model, seems the engine can go either way just by swapping the pulley from side to side. I guess what was confusing was the longitudinal engine and the 90 degree bend in the belt. Was hard to visualize. I have built several belt driven FDs and none ran backwards, so I must not be totally stupid. Now its down to waiting on all the parts to arrive to begin to finalize this thing. Am really gonna try to build in a patina finish. Having worked in several restoration shops as a kid makes a patina build go against my training. Gonna try!

Whats the opinions on the engine direction? I have a favorite.

 

[NEAT TIMES]

CB2

If anyone suggest that you are stupid they should be banned from Wal Mart for life.

You have built several aw-sum Friction Drives and most of them did not have reverse !! pun

If you use a belt and pulley would putting the pulley on 7/8" crankshaft PTO side help center motor and keep narrower ?? Cut off excess shaft. Maybe mount a narrow pulley notched for rope start flat against flywheel ?

A larger pulley may pull easier when starting, that is my thoughts for my Stretch Cruiser Build. Don`t have the "Ole Snap" in me arms anymore. Plan on holding starter rope handle in both hands and falling over backwards with hopes that it will start

Looked at several of your build threads yesterday. The thought occurred that buying your builds and riding would be nice. Like your FD Recumbent, where is it ?

The E Trike is looking very nice.
NT

 

[Dan]

With such a "Rube Goldberg" sort of transmission, (I mean that as a great compliment) gonna look really great either way!

 

[silverbear]

"Plan on holding starter rope handle in both hands and falling over backwards with hopes that it will start"...

That should work. I believe that's referred to as a "gravity pull start". Ron, sometimes you crack me up!
SB

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks for the compliments Ron! I left several of my builds with my son when I moved, the recumbent was one. Some where along the way he sold it to a guy in Atlanta. That's the last I heard of it. Was a pretty good ride.

I ordered a 3" pulley for the 7/8 end. The Maytag pulley is also 3" so I can use either end for drive or starting. I start my other Maytag bike using a notched 3" and its plenty big to handle the low compression ratio these engines have. They start usually on the third pull. I will shorten the crank when the pulley arrives, and I guess then figure which way I want the engine. I am leaning towards the flywheel to the rear set up but may change my mind when I get the engine mounted and find its too close for comfort in the leg/knee area. Have to see.

Dan, being compared to Rube Goldberg is indeed a compliment! The man is a prolific builder/designer. All my life I have seen his work every where I go!

 

[cannonball2]

Curt heres the rim drive kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-Watt-El...05&prg=11353&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=151453337671&rt=nc

 

[curtisfox]

Can't have bent rims with that drive,that is Kool................Curt

 

[cannonball2]

Curt. Maybe the rollers will straighten bent rims-lol.

So the baby BMW almost hit the scrap pile this AM. I had plenty of measured pedal clearance, what I didnt have was any cylinder clearance. After many tries with mount relocation I now can pedal and miss the spark plugs(gonna be some heavy duty boots on em!). Engine is disappointingly high and I was just about to chunk it when new visions sprang through the mental fog. The height allowed a revision in the drive concept. The mounts will be welded at the front of the frame then a tube(or maybe the lucky 7 seat post in the pic) will support the mount in a cantilever fashion. The rear section of angles in the pic will end about mid point of the flywheel. This will allow a twisted belt drive to a shaft just in front of the BB which in turn will drive a roller behind the seat tube. So this is turning out to be a mechanically interesting application of my Doctorate from the graduate school at the Rube Goldberg Institute of Technology. See the pics and use your imagination! First pic is where I wanted it. Second, where it is. Third is the mechanical madness!

 

[Ludwig II]

This is a 2 stroke, and immune to difficulties in oil pickup. Why not leave it transverse, rotate through 90 degrees so the crankshaft is vertical, and just take the drive belt through one change of direction before it turns the roller?

 

[silverbear]

Interesting!
SB

 

[Ludwig II]

Or even a smaller angle of rotation? That'll confuse people.

 

[cannonball2]

Interesting idea L2! Like some of the Helicopter engine installs. Maybe I could weld the crank to the mount and let the engine spin like a Gnome rotary. Would make starting easy just grab the cylinders and give it a turn. Bad news for the jewels in a wreck though!

 

[Ludwig II]

Carburation would be a devil to work out, otherwise I'd say go for it.

 

[cannonball2]

Carburation would be a devil to work out, otherwise I'd say go for it.

Might not be too hard. The crank is drilled and used as a rotary valve. Maybe I could just drill in from the mounted end and add a carb flange. As I remember the carb was mounted to the crank inside the aircraft with the old rotary engines. Hmmm. This build is lunatic fringe enough with out a spinning engine-LOL!

Finished the mount. I have just enough clearance on the front shaft for a 3" rope start pulley-great! Now its time to wait for bearings.

 

[NEAT TIMES]

CB2

What would you think of cutting the top down tube off and lower eng and move it forward approx. 6 inches and install a "Boys" top tube.

That would also lessen the threat of Severe Wheelies.

Recently read about older gentleman that thought God was turning the bathroom light on and off for him. Then wife caught him Whizzing in the fridge!

Have a feeling it is already done in your head. Still have not grasped the plan in my coconut.

NT

 

[cannonball2]

Ron,
I gotta tell ya we see the same things. I stood there and looked at the dang thing and thought how about cutting the top tube and moving the engine all the way to the front. I have an old Schwinn frame mens that is not usable that had the perfect top tube. I spent some time on thinking about making mounts for the existing top tube to make the engine a stressed member--complicated!

What it is now is workable. I have a couple of viable drive scenarios. When the parts begin to show up then I will finalize what the heck Im gonna do. I guess its just how weird do I wanna make it. What I want to wind up with is an interesting bare bones beater that I don't want to worry about. I have plenty of stuff that goes fast. I hope to wind up with a leisurely putt-putt that is so radically different, that I stand back and think where in the dang heck did this come from!