That’s the purpose of this forum, to share what we’ve learned and learn as we go.
Can't get it to start first time, new build.
- Thread starter greenrider
- Start date
If you can post a picture of your bike it makes troubleshooting easier. We all like to see what members build.
One idea I plan to try is adding bolt on fins to the head to reduce heat, I’ve often thought it would help. When I do this I’ll start a thread to show the results.
You can put the white wire with the blue but it's not going to have any power for anything but the engine... It's the amount of windings that matter...
About 15 years ago Fred at CR machine made a mag and a head and basically everyone copied him and most of the upgrades came from him and Jaguar made the ignition that's been copied that retards the spark curve that California motorbikes and bike berry sells...
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I thought about stripping the fins from the 110 cylinder and using muggy weld to solder them to a phantom jug... With a rag soaked in water to keep the cylinder coating from peeling... Bike berry has a new 100 with fat fins I'm waiting for the cylinder alone to become available... The V1 has some decent cooling... The V2 is set up for a pugeot 103 ?? reed... Every day there's something new... And there's the LD 90 and 100 that are 2 piece... People have been adding a 3rd transfer to those with good results...
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Learning about all the new stuff that's came out the last few years got me back into it... These companies pay attention to what's going on with the forums and social media...
My clutch pad material I came up with from working on clutches and oil bath band brakes for fishing gear... RDM wanted to know about it but was sneaky about it... It's not a big secret the material has been around for 100 years... Arrow motorized bicycle uses it... Then I found there supplier for the heavy duty spring... And got them before they shipped me the same ones from them...
40 years ago my uncle came to me to get his brakes fixed and because he was in real estate he put 50,000 miles on a car that was less than a year old... The dealership didn't have brake pads for it... So I made a set from something that was close... I grew up when you had to have a ton of tools and the right last name and the BS everyone wants to hear... I have none of that... I didn't make any money at it... I just wanted to prove the experts wrong... Motorized bicycle is the perfect place for this...
99% of this stuff is put out there by people who have no clue about engines there just doing what sells... 99% of the 1% that actually know something about motorized bicycle only know motorized bicycle... So when I look at it I'm not interested in Jo bubba's sales and Facebook followers... I look at the mechanics of it... Everything I think of has been thought of but someone said no that's going to cost too much or were going to spread the upgrades out a little at a time so they can move the remaining inventory... If someone has a million dollars in something I make obsolete there not going to want that... There also not going to like someone picking apart something that supposed to be the latest greatest thing... Building from the replacement parts from everyone and finding the source close to the factory cuts out a lot of pop up companies... These companies depend on people who don't know what is what to move the obsolete stuff because they don't know... But they also know that at any minute a competitor is going to come out with something... My job is to filter that out... I share my experience doing that... I'll buy out the inventory on certain things... This is where it gets interesting... These companies have preferred customers there the builders who do a volume and when something new comes out it's because of feed back from those guys and there customer... There told about the new shiny thing... Exclusive just for them... Then I find it listed and there short on the order for the VIP because I got it... Then boy wonder has a few samples but his customer has to wait for more inventory... Surfing the suppliers for what's new is time consuming... I have to take a break from it... I miss a few things... But I'm also about done with everything I need... I've got a criteria I'm working with... And it's basically trying to stick with cheap knock off stuff that's readily available... Everything will need some modification or cleanup to work... Nothing is made for it's intended purpose it's a mix of various models and application... That's were it's fun... That's were nobody is developing... Because there's no money in selling another companies parts that work better for cheaper than yours... Everything motorized happy time has been done decades ago or a century ago... Just not on these particular engines... And I read the threads about it... Most of the time there's something of value there... It may not have worked out but may have if it got worked out... The original poster quit at some point and will never know but it's something I can use I grab it... Usually it boils down to someone just can't get there idea across... They don't know the terminology... They don't know what they did but it made it better... Or it made a change... There was a time when everyone was raising the exhaust port 1mm... At the time most of the cylinders available that helped... The factory adopted this and the cylinders have higher exhaust ports... So unless you have gT5 or cylinder from 2014 it's no longer applicable... And that's the thing to know... Don't mix up generation one tech with generation 6 tech... It happens so fast that the ' I've been doing it for so long I know everything doesn't work for these... You need to know what your working on... Yesterday's and tomorrow's engines are going to be different... And why I have a few of each...
The fundamentals are the same but the application is going to be different... For a while it's been about top speed.. I'm going for bottom end so it's night and day difference in tuning... Basically a pk80 low hole jug on a long rod hi hole crank.. gets the low end port timing were it needs to be... That's why you see these engines with 2 base gaskets as an attempt to raise the exhaust port... And why some don't run a base gasket... It's easier than milling the cylinder... Whoever design these designs a part... So it's like several people doing a part with no collaboration with each other or concept of how they work together... Then they wait for customer response to fix anything... There is a bonus... I got 2 zeda triple 40's from bicycle engine.com I ordered the kit supposed to be the new cylinders... But I got the original 40.. and a few months later I ordered replacement cylinders and got 1 old and 1 new style.. and the new one was beat up in shipping
I called and got another new one to replace the old one and the damaged one... Now I've got 3 old and 3 new... To me the old style is valuable and having both is great to compare... On the phone all they wanted to do was play me for a dummy... And it worked out... The original zeda closed transfer cylinders for free that are better than the new open one for bottom end... But getting stuff I want for nothing because I'm a new customer and they have to schluff off the old style to someone... It's how it goes... Buy something you don't want to get something you do because there just notorious for those games... And it's no mystery why I got banned on the other forum... Your supposed to promote them vendors to get free stuff on the forum...
They're the best customer service... If you play them
The minereli builds... Everyone used BR6hs... the engine the cylinder goes on original recommend an 8 or 9 ngk... And it's got a cooling fan... So it's no mystery why they were seizing the engines... Why did they go with a 6 heat range? They were used to it from 48/66/80 engines that were 2hp... 32:1 oil... X3 the power = down 3 on the heat range and 3x the oil mix ... Now they recommend 16:1 to 24:1 on those... 40:1 is for something liquid cooled... But in a racing situation were the engine only needs to last the race... 40:1 has an advantage and running lean... Plus there on and off the throttle on a closed track... But it's not practical to get a day out of the engine unless you're selling them and they sold a bunch with people still waiting for it... A steel sleeve with a aluminum piston will expand at different rates... Aluminum transfers heat better than steel... The conductivity...
I'm heavy so I'm going to need a lower gear and I'm not going fast enough with more load than a lighter person... = More heat = Colder plug more oil mix... I'm heavy so my frame and wheels are heavier again more effort to keep it cool... doesn't matter who sells it... Who rides it... 2 or 4 stroke... 70cc or 7 liters heat is our enemy and parasitic drag is the other... Just messing around with my pedal bike I got the coaster hub to last 100 times longer and still going with bell ray chain lube than the one with regular grease... I noticed a big difference in pedaling around town... I put extreme pressure 5% molly grease in the bottom bracket... I can hear the chain and nothing else and it's smooth... Black ops bearings are sealed and it's going to be a few years to know if they last... But it's a better setup with better grease and time will tell... At this point it's almost automatic reflexes to problem solve something in this disposable world... I'm very open about how I come to my conclusions and where I come from... And why... A factory trained Kawasaki dealership mechanic from the 80's... 86-90 was a good time for 2 stroke stuff so good it was banned and stuff from the 70's was cheap 10 years old... Some dirt Rider magazines and you could get dangerous with it... Today it's all done and very little room to mod anything... But these motorized bicycle engines is like going back in time... If you've never seen the evolution of bikes and machines it's hard to comprehend and then to take a few steps back and rediscover all the things that worked in the past and why it worked and apply it... That's what I'm all about... Most of the mods I've posted are from the 80's or 20 years ago... Kx65 reeds pw80 cdi ktm sx65 flange
I'm heavy so I'm going to need a lower gear and I'm not going fast enough with more load than a lighter person... = More heat = Colder plug more oil mix... I'm heavy so my frame and wheels are heavier again more effort to keep it cool... doesn't matter who sells it... Who rides it... 2 or 4 stroke... 70cc or 7 liters heat is our enemy and parasitic drag is the other... Just messing around with my pedal bike I got the coaster hub to last 100 times longer and still going with bell ray chain lube than the one with regular grease... I noticed a big difference in pedaling around town... I put extreme pressure 5% molly grease in the bottom bracket... I can hear the chain and nothing else and it's smooth... Black ops bearings are sealed and it's going to be a few years to know if they last... But it's a better setup with better grease and time will tell... At this point it's almost automatic reflexes to problem solve something in this disposable world... I'm very open about how I come to my conclusions and where I come from... And why... A factory trained Kawasaki dealership mechanic from the 80's... 86-90 was a good time for 2 stroke stuff so good it was banned and stuff from the 70's was cheap 10 years old... Some dirt Rider magazines and you could get dangerous with it... Today it's all done and very little room to mod anything... But these motorized bicycle engines is like going back in time... If you've never seen the evolution of bikes and machines it's hard to comprehend and then to take a few steps back and rediscover all the things that worked in the past and why it worked and apply it... That's what I'm all about... Most of the mods I've posted are from the 80's or 20 years ago... Kx65 reeds pw80 cdi ktm sx65 flange
While you're in china can you get some new parts we won't see for years over here?
The 100 has some potential... The LD 100 is a 2 piece version with a CNC head option... And the phantom 85 is on the 100 bottom end with a 110 rod...
The 110 is unique to itself and needs work just to run right and is a disaster... The 66/80cc is confusing and too many options and your better off with the 100 to avoid that... The more utube you watch the more you'll figure out what you want to do with it... Just know there not dependable and need constant attention... And they add a lot of stress to the bike... Get in the habit of looking things over keep it detailed so you can see cracks develop before they surprise you on the road somewhere... Pay attention to the wheels and nothing is better than a heavy duty week set with brakes... Basically anything you can do to make it slightly less dangerous
The 110 is unique to itself and needs work just to run right and is a disaster... The 66/80cc is confusing and too many options and your better off with the 100 to avoid that... The more utube you watch the more you'll figure out what you want to do with it... Just know there not dependable and need constant attention... And they add a lot of stress to the bike... Get in the habit of looking things over keep it detailed so you can see cracks develop before they surprise you on the road somewhere... Pay attention to the wheels and nothing is better than a heavy duty week set with brakes... Basically anything you can do to make it slightly less dangerous
Those Bayside aluminum frames eventually are going to be problems... A steel frame is something that's going to last longer and repair easier... I put together the basic tried and true beginners basic kit... The majority of the builds are on a Cranbrook with wheel master or something similar wheels.... The 14ga aluminum rims Bayside is ... I had one... It was pretty flimsy just pedaling it... Like anything else there's always another upgrade...
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Quick question I see you touched on peopleaking a third transfer for the ld90s, that's the motor I have and would love any info you might could pass my way would be greatly appreciated