Wanted to remove the cast iron flywheel before any thing else got done.
It's in the way if I have to shorten the protrusion on the crankcase that supports governor axle.
The axel gets driven out leaving a hole in the crank case so I will drill the axel and governor bores with a letter C drill and tap 1/16- 27 NPT. I have plugs for both.
So I gotta get the flywheel off, socket wrench on the nut, Halder Supercraft dead blow, and I'm beating away. Nuthin.
Well that was yesterday, and I reviewed selected scenes of both AGK and ARC. I decided, I was driving the nut wrong way.
It happens even to a good man I am told. Back on the bench this afternoon. Wrench and hammer whacking away counter clock wise. Still nuthin.
Plan B. Couple of years ago I purchased a Porter Cable electric impact driver 1/2" drive. Weighs more than a small dog.
Pulled the trigger and off comes the nut, starter cup, and plastic fan. Small leap for mankind.
Nut back on the crank shaft to guard the crankshaft threads, I gave that nut some fierce licks with the Halder hammer.
Nuthin again, I got a trend going.
So I breaks out the heavy artillery.
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Nice rap and the iron flywheel is off it's taper at last. Copper chisel and 4oz hammer free the woodruff key from the shaft.
So I got this cast iron flywheel in one hand and this high toned CNC machined be all end all aluminum (Brits say different)
Flywheel in the other. Hmmm. Take them in the house to Grand Dads scale.
Cast iron was a smidgeon lighter than the 3lb ARC flywheel. Tempted to get in touch with ARC and ask WTF? Anyway.
Back to the shop. Took forever to find my Dykem Prussian Blue. Wasn't where it was supposed to BEER!
To me it a goodenoff fit I will not do the lap routine.
The 65 ft lb torque and keyed flywheel crankshaft assy. has my confidence. Besides there is a local car show May 15.
Some photos.