Yes I think that it is definitely firing and if you. can sort out the clutch and fuel supply it will be running strong. Perhaps you should also think about installing the muffler too, these small 2 strokes require back pressure to run correctly.
Problem with my engine
- Thread starter Petter
- Start date
It appears to me that there are a few parts missing from your clutch assembly. Item 3 and maybe 6 and 7 if you look at my picture you will see what I am referring to
Thank you. However I don’t have any of these parts, and I have not removed any parts. What do you recommend? Can I order any of these parts, or is the project simply not gonna work? And is the clutch essential for getting in started or can I just start it with the engine engaged? Also do you have any ideas on why it isn’t producing any power? The piston simply just moves. Do you think there is any hope, ore is the engine broken?
These parts are easy to find and ae not that expensive. I buy my parts at https://www.motorizedbicycle.ca/
There must be similar suppliers in your country too. The engine will go with the clutch engaged but you will not be able to stop with the engine running.
That looks so cool, I would have done anything to get mine going. It is super frustrating not knowing the problem or being able to fix it. It is brand new as well. It ran the first time I got it, I let it stand for 15 minutes and couldn’t start it again. Since that I’ve have been looking at it almost every single day trying to get it going but simply can not.
Petter you are trying to overcome the power of the big internal spring, you can not do it without leverage. Try this, hold the clutch lever in and see if the flower nut will screw in more. You do need the spring that goes between the clutch gear and plate.
Thanks Petter! I can not imagine what could have happened during that 15 minutes; possibly the engine jumper its timing and is not firing at the correct time but I am not sure if this is even possible. My engine is exactly the same as yours and when I got it the clutch was so bad that the little ball bearings escaped from their race and became all mashed up and seized the clutch so badly that it took me hours to get it apart. On several occasions I had to motor home with a seized clutch, It was not until a got a new clutch assembly did I get any pleasure from my bike.
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The only way that the ignition timing can change is if the engine was assembled without the Woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. See video!
Yes the magnet is installed in the correct position on your bike.
Did you attempt a start with the choke in the open position.
Was the float bowl full of gas after the starting attempt.
Have you ever tried using the priming plunger before attempting an engine start.
What are you using for fuel.
What ratio oil to fuel are you using.
Unless it is very cold my engine starts without any choke.
The prime should be pushed 2-3 times for a first start on a run.
You should use regular gasoline ( 87 octane) .
for running in period 20:1 fuel oil mixture.
I tried to start it with the choke maxed out, (blocking as much air as possible)
The float is empty and floats as it’s supposed to
I do not not what a priming plunger is, could you try to explain what it is, what it does, and how I use it?
I use 95 petrol mixed with two stroke oil for dirtbikes. The ratio might be around 24-16:1 as I didn’t have a milliliter messure around.
The temperature is around 5 degrees Celsius, so it’s pretty cold.
I have pushed the prime sometimes before starting so the carb is full of fuel.
The float is empty and floats as it’s supposed to
I do not not what a priming plunger is, could you try to explain what it is, what it does, and how I use it?
I use 95 petrol mixed with two stroke oil for dirtbikes. The ratio might be around 24-16:1 as I didn’t have a milliliter messure around.
The temperature is around 5 degrees Celsius, so it’s pretty cold.
I have pushed the prime sometimes before starting so the carb is full of fuel.
The primer is the little spring loaded thing next to the idle set screw it pushes down on the float allowing more fuel to enter the bowl,.
was there any carbon on the base of the spark plug after your starting test.
If it refuses to start with choke closed try opening a little at a time until full open.
Open the throttle when the engine begins firing.
Do you have access to a compression gauge, for measuring engine compression at the spark plug hole.
I am finding it hard to believe you can pedal the bike from a start, if the engine has the recommended compression (above 120 pounds per square inch), unless your engine is running at idle speed and not responding to throttle.
This is beginning to sound like a problem in the carburetor (maybe a partially plugged main jet).
Myself I never use the primer, or the choke most of the time, but I have an electric motor to help me get up to speed. You can see me start my engine for the first time in 5 degree weather in my video using about 1 third open throttle, you can hear the click where I pop the clutch and see how long it takes for the engine begin to develop full power.
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Every thing looks good but now I am wondering if the needle valve is lifting out of the main jet when the twist throttle is opened the throttle cable does not look correct where it enters the carburetor. There should be no slack and no gap between cable housing and carburetor body, just a direct pull when the throttle is twisted. Perhaps the needle has become unclipped and is not rising when the throttle is being opened. I just took this picture of mine and this is what it should look as it enters the carburetor. You should try to catch wasted fuel in a container for future use and safety reasons.
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I can not tell very much from the video. But Yes the brass needle is supposed to move smoothly with the plastic cylinder when the throttle is opened by twisting the handle bar grip. If it is working like that when you do your starting tests, your engine should start and run.
The brass needle is tapered at the bottom end and when it is at the bottom position it blocks the main jet so no fuel is allowed in the venturi (passage leading to the engine cylinder). As the plastic cylinder and needle move upward more and more air and fuel allowed into the venturi as the throttle is applied.
For the engine to start and begin producing power both the needle and plastic cylinder must rise with the application of throttle.
The engine can be made to idle faster if the idle screw (screw with spring) is turned clockwise, This process lifts the plastic cylinder and needle valve if everything is assembled properly. Your engine will produce more power when you attempt a start.
To help understand the throttle components and their assembly, check pages 30 -31 in this file.
Here is a video of me starting starting my bike after it was in storage for the winter months. It may be helpful to see my setup and starting techniques.
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