World’s fastest Schwinn cruiser

[Tony01]

Excellent Tony, patience + persistence makes one appear much luckier I've found. You did a great job lacing and the wheel set mounted with tire looks terrific and ready to mount. Once you get the springs loaded I'd think you to be well over the rebuild hump with some dollars saved due to relentless sourcing.

Rick C.

Thank you! Weighed it, comes to 35.5lb! EIGHT pound reduction in rotational mass. Will be more savings on the front.

Fork seals are here, springs coming tomorrow in the AM. Gotta straighten out that fork leg soon. Truing up the front. Looks like I just have $15 in refurbishing the fork...

Got the front buttoned up. Not aired up yet, gonna do that at the shop to get it seated right.

 

[Tony01]

Got my fork straightened out. It was just the one leg. Came home and measured the spacing between legs cause it doesn’t look quite straight in the picture.. Yeap 70 thou wider between the legs on the bottom. Between the points of travel (3.4”) it is only about 25 thou difference. Getting the seals in, tomorrow gonna cut the springs and see what I can do about closing/grinding the ends.

Was thinking about making spring perches but do not have the right size material here at the moment, was thinking of cutting a ring, then doing a lengthwise cut down one side, offsetting the two ends and welding it, then grinding one side down flat. Perhaps with some careful grinding and cooling I can close/grind the springs myself.

Got my front tire seated up. Damn thing just didn’t wanna seat. Felt like the tire was made for a 16.9” rim, always too short on one side. With the right amount of squeezing the opposite side I got it pretty close. One of these days I want to try the ratchet strap trick to get it to seat evenly. But if I mount it up in the fork and it’s good, I’ll let it go.

Front wheel weight also reduced 8lb, down to 12.5lb (w/o brake plate). I can’t wait to see the difference in ride...

 

[indian22]

Looking good Tony. You will benefit from reducing the un sprung weight that much. Slight camera angle really makes the leg look worse than that, but the eye will lie, especially from photos. Some of my in progress rough work look pretty good to the camera and some finished work ends up looking rough in a particular camera shot.

I mounted a couple of CST speed rated tires on moped rims a couple of years ago and thought they were going to stroke me out. Tough to mount I found. Really needed four hands and six spoons!

You probably know most of this Tony though others might benefit.Cool mist type, water based cutting fluid in a spray bottle applied liberally while cutting slowly with the resin disc will save spring temper. Repeated spray and touch action with the grinder will get it done...no continuous cutting; however using a Sawz All, which cuts much cooler, is often overlooked as an appropriate tool. I like starting a cut in heat sensitive material with the resin cut off wheel, making a slight stabilizing notch for the skittish Sawz All and finishing up slowly using the bi-metal saw blade. Clamping is everything in cutting a spring without a torch. Closing the ends of a tempered spring can be quite dangerous when using a press to close a "hardened" coil, make sure to use a fail proof retention device on the spring body. I've also "notched" and closed a coil spring end and then used a tig to fill the notch, with a heat sink in place. It doesn't look that great but works and temper's not effected though "rate" could be, however I'd think the increase to be quite small. The springs I modified in this manner were considerably larger than what you are working with, so that's full disclosure.

You're making rapid progress to get back on the road with your bike.

Rick C.

 

[Tony01]

Rick I hope you had a great Christmas! I haven’t worked on it yet as I was pretty busy this holiday.

I have spent a lot of time grinding custom form tools. It’s an art for sure. Getting the right shape, reliefs geometry, all while trying to do it quickly without bluing the blank. LOL about cutting a notch and tig’n it up with heat sinks. You have seen some tough jobs for sure!

Yesterday whilst doing general house repairs and such I was thinking how I’d get to making spring perches. Thought of casting at first, then happened to find a piece of tubing the right size.

Bad drawing, but yea, take the tubing, cut it lengthwise on one side, offset and weld back up then grind down to the dotted line. Just have to research it some to figure what the new solid height will be of the full spring.

I’ll be cutting a test piece and will attempt to grind springs too. I do not want to increase the spring solid height any more than I have to.

What do you think?

 

[indian22]

Hope yours was as good as mine Tony.

That diagram shape looks to be correct for spring perches and hopefully the tube size you have will work at least to try it out. At any rate it sounds like you're tracking well to a solution that will work and I'd also think it better not to change the spring height.

Rick C.

 

[Tony01]

Made two perches, one is too short on the thick side and they both still need welding. The ones that go in the lowers’ top caps maybe do not need to be welded and can simply be as thin as possible for the spring to sit inside the top cap. Found my material buried in another tube, it measures 1.68” OD so have to cut about .550” out the circumference to squash it down to 1.50”

Looks like I will not lose more than about .12” of solid height which will not affect anything since the spring has a travel of about .15” more than the fork.

 

[indian22]

"I love it when a plan comes together"

Rick C.

 

[doithuong]

Thanks Tony I noticed the host deletes and wanted to see details so I'll look on flickr for those missing photos. I'm certain they will be most instructive.

 

[Tony01]

Did a lot this weekend. Wire brushed all the rust off my frame and swing arm and finished some welding. Frame still needs more grinder work of course. Soon! Welded the two of my spring perches and painted all of them black.

The new fork seals at 37x27x7.5 dropped right in and are about 3mm shorter than they need to be and sit deeper in the caps. No problem. I made up for it by using headset cups to hold the top of the springs.

Spring rate feels much stronger. If it’s too much I can back off by cutting those headset cups to the cup, then cutting longer springs; one extra coil.

Decided the stock bodywork of the fork looks good, and assembled it back up with it. It is necessary to install the headlight brackets (at least temporarily) to ensure the correct length of fork leg sticking out.

Bought an led headlight that is super bright, and I’ll be installing it into a plastic bucket from another light. On to fiberglass prep.

 

[indian22]

You have made excellent progress Tony, old, yet improved ride ready for action in the New Year.

Rick C.

 

[Tony01]

Milled out my bottom bracket jackshaft by hand to fit the 1-3/8 bearings. Only 25 per side skim cut lol! These chips are like fiberglass, metal splinters that get stuck in your skin and rust too...

 

[Tony01]

Finished grinding on the frame and swingarm. Wire brushed what I could. Frame is now ready for some minor bondo then paint. This thing needs to be perfect.

Prepping the batt box for the final glasswork. Got these 8-32 5/16” long flatheads and bonding nuts to keep the side cover on. Still need to prep the fake tank. Not quite sure how I’m gonna fill a two inch wide gap to follow the shape. Feel like just making a new foam plug. Also I want the fake tank to attach to the batt box, possibly something easily removable.

 

[indian22]

Tony I went to a small local car show a few years back that was represented well with quite typical hot rods and street customs mostly '50's and '60's that the owners, justly so, were quite proud of. One 1956 Chevy stood out, the details of fabrication and finish were worthy of a National show car, it featured quite a few exterior mods that were so well conceived and executed that at first glance the car appeared almost stock. I spent some time talking with the owner who did all the work ,except the interior stitching, himself As it is with some small shows the judging wasn't up to par and not only had he not won best of show but hadn't trophied in class either. He still had a good time. I singled out the details that appealed to me and finished with my favorite modification which was the elimination of the "wing window" in the door glass, no post, just glass that fit and operated perfectly in factory style channels. A first place in show would not have brought a bigger grin of pride to his face than resulted from my comment. The windows were his greatest triumph on the beautiful build. He allowed that mine was the only comment made about the mod during this and a previous show. It was a beautiful day and the turnout was quite large for such a small presentation and his work was validated by one guy at one out of two shows, yet he knew! That's what counts; not me or others just you. Some builders work to tiny tolerances on parts which are never seen, but the fabricator knows and to him it's important. A gap on a body panel might have an actual purpose or it's stylistic and works in fact and to the eye, the builder knows while all the rest are just guessing. I favor doing what works for you and I'd say the rest will think it just fine whatever your reasons. Just perfect is a worthy goal as long as it's just perfect to you!

Your doing fine work and making great progress Tony.

Rick C.

 

[Tony01]

Tony I went to a small local car show a few years back that was represented well with quite typical hot rods and street customs mostly '50's and '60's that the owners, justly so, were quite proud of. One 1956 Chevy stood out, the details of fabrication and finish were worthy of a National show car, it featured quite a few exterior mods that were so well conceived and executed that at first glance the car appeared almost stock. I spent some time talking with the owner who did all the work ,except the interior stitching, himself As it is with some small shows the judging wasn't up to par and not only had he not won best of show but hadn't trophied in class either. He still had a good time. I singled out the details that appealed to me and finished with my favorite modification which was the elimination of the "wing window" in the door glass, no post, just glass that fit and operated perfectly in factory style channels. A first place in show would not have brought a bigger grin of pride to his face than resulted from my comment. The windows were his greatest triumph on the beautiful build. He allowed that mine was the only comment made about the mod during this and a previous show. It was a beautiful day and the turnout was quite large for such a small presentation and his work was validated by one guy at one out of two shows, yet he knew! That's what counts; not me or others just you. Some builders work to tiny tolerances on parts which are never seen, but the fabricator knows and to him it's important. A gap on a body panel might have an actual purpose or it's stylistic and works in fact and to the eye, the builder knows while all the rest are just guessing. I favor doing what works for you and I'd say the rest will think it just fine whatever your reasons. Just perfect is a worthy goal as long as it's just perfect to you!

Your doing fine work and making great progress Tony.

Rick C.

Hahaha yes. In a time when half the people looking at my bikes are asking “gas or electric?” it sure is nice when the One notices something. After some thought reading your post I’ve decided to just fill the gap with a piece of sheet metal. I have to fill it, it’s 2” wide at the top because I realized I screwed up with the battbox and fake tank and had to widen them. Well the battbox is done but the fake tank still has that gap. I’m thinking I’ll just use the same 8-32 bonding nuts.

Almost forgot to put a steering stop. Drove me nuts on this bike. I’ll have to plug in the welder only one more time for the kickstand.

 

[Tony01]

Now I really wish I didn’t bondo the frame... but I’ve started and I’ll finish it... that smooth part is done though, it’s so smooth I can’t even photograph it well enough!

 

[Ralph hop]

I was reluctant to suggest the Bondo red glazing putty for
some reason unknown. I use it for body working over grind marks and bumpy welds. I know the Bondo sucks to sand but it will smooth down all the same. I used a dry wall sander on it once on a flat spot and files also. Hate it!

 

[indian22]

I was reluctant to suggest the Bondo red glazing putty for
some reason unknown. I use it for body working over grind marks and bumpy welds. I know the Bondo sucks to sand but it will smooth down all the same. I used a dry wall sander on it once on a flat spot and files also. Hate it!

One of my least favorite things to do, yet it's one of our metal working processes that's survived to date because it works. "wax on wax off" ….technique that's a boring yet useful practice.

Rick C.

 

[Tony01]

I was reluctant to suggest the Bondo red glazing putty for
some reason unknown. I use it for body working over grind marks and bumpy welds. I know the Bondo sucks to sand but it will smooth down all the same. I used a dry wall sander on it once on a flat spot and files also. Hate it!

Is that stuff better? I just bought a gallon of bondo but I can get the other stuff too.

Sure sucks to sand, but I have to sand the fiberglass battery box too and I’d rather be sanding bondo than fiberglass... beginning to think of adding some frame sliders so I don’t have to do this again.

 

[Ralph hop]

It's easier to sand but less durable and used for minor nicks and gouges so not better just easier and it doesn't give a high build that's used for shaping. The last time I used it, It sanded right down after curing with 600 grit paper. The green and blue filler that's seen on TV shows, is a polyester based filler. The poly based usually leaves no air pockets and is soft sanding.

 

[Tony01]

Well I been working on it on and off this week. Tomorrow is a warm day so I’ll give a shot at finishing the sanding and all today and at least get the frame painted. The box is completely covered in the hardened pink snot. Orbital sander work and fake tank work. Still have to figure out how I’ll finish it. A hinge of sorts where it must be lifted then swung off would be cool. Or just a push in mount maybe with one screw on the other side. I just want it to look as clean as possible. The little side cover screws will not really even be visible when it’s painted. There will just be a few on the bottom and more that are covered by the fake tank.