Nice build, twisted sister belt and all. I'd think that a spritely speed for scaring livestock and raising dust. Well done!
Rick C.
Rick C.
Ready to go faster, advice?
- Thread starter Noah T
- Start date
Thank you for the descriptive post as to why these are the cheaper steak, does it taste good? Does it get you to work? Some of us may have two grand for a build but not two grand for forks, I'll attach some new crappy photos from my phone with the mags and hydraulic tektro disk brakes like I said good year heavy duty tubes, Kenda makes a bicycle tire with motorcycle street tread, those are on the way
Hhi
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Your suspension is very interesting there's alot going on in this picture. I think I'm seeing a barba racing motor? The silencer would be nice for me to continue using this thrust pipe, looks stock which I definitely have as well as a welder. Looks like a moped drum hub? There's alot going on there that is a beautiful, intricate bike
Thanks Noah. I'll post a front end photo which will help. This bike is an electric hybrid and also think the hub e-motor looks like a drum brake, but actually it's disk brakes front and rear. The rear hub is billet aluminum with sealed bearings from Ghetto bikes.
The x-chamber is a thrust pipe, stinger shortened with a kit muffler attached. Really quiet. The motors I personally build, many mods a few of which are reed valve, window piston, extra cylinder port, German precision bearings, balanced rotating components and a welded stuffed case, porting and slightly higher compression etc. All the external stuff is just stock as ordered, heads, Dellorto, RSE reed and as much extra finned aluminum as I could bolt on for extra cooling & it looks ok too. Two things bolted to the case is a spring chain tensioner and behind that an aluminum case saver which could be called a life saver as well. It's purpose is to prevent chain to case lockup should the chain break. These are common factory motorcycle incorporated devices for bikes that run tight chain to case tolerance at the output sprocket and the China girl engines are the tightest chain to case that I've ever seen and therefore dangerous. Rear wheel lockup is not as dangerous as front wheel but it's not good. These really work I lost a fast link twice (installed clip backwards) & both times the chain spit through and cleared without my noticing the chain was gone, engine rev'd and progress slowed the chain was a few hundred feet back up the road.
Photo is old before I changed the battery mount and painted the aluminum wheel. The lithium battery is under the down tube and saddle bags hold two more...I have room for 5 total on long rides they are 20 amp hrs. each. good for lots of miles. The modified motor is a fuel hog, but with the 38 tooth sprocket at 35mph cruise I can squeeze 100mph per gallon with a little help from either pedaling or 500 watt, wink,wink, e-motor.
Rick C.
Okay guys here it is with the mags and hydraulic disks. I thought I was running a 36t before turns out it was a 40 so maybe I'll get some more speed with the 36 on these mags, definitely had some unexpected chain work lol shortening it, it's really looking and riding great I downjetted and it's just a monster jumps from under you
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Everything about that bike is beautiful I'm guessing this is your pride and joy, the project you really put your all in. The hybrid thing is very enticing, not having to pedal that first ten feet to pop start it now that would be great, same reason I've been thinking about a centrifugal clutch. I definitely have expierenced the sudden YIIIIIIING and slow to a stop, walk back and look for the chain haha I've been running a 410 from tractor supply for a while now and it's extremely reliable much better than the kit 415 and very cheap i got a little more than two chains for twenty bucks, I forget the exact length but I know I have a spare. I'd love to see some more pictures of your bike especially your ' case saver' I haven't heard of this and I'm interested
Noah thanks. The hybrid is actually my test mule and it's gone through several distinct personalities. The latest iteration is the hybrid that I think started Spring of this year. The frame I've been riding now close to seven years, before I joined the forum & I'd been building bikes before that for five or six years. I currently have seven motorized bikes and I've put more hours of riding time on this one than all the others combined. I ride everyday year round so that's a lot of riding and I'd say I'm on the hybrid 2/3rd. of the time. It's an old friend, but I'd say my Harley and Simplex are the center pieces of my bikes, they have pedals but are really motorcycles on bicycle tires. They are fun to ride but in a different way, they are much more advanced builds and took many months to build. I like the fact that the the hybrid is still a bicycle with motors on it, that also pedals nicely for a heavy single speed. The saddle bags can hold two extra 20 amp lithium packs for added range.
The e-motor idea was initially, like you said, just a glorified electric starter & it works great for that, but it has so much more utility once you get used to it being available. I can run super small rear sprockets and not have to slip the clutch or pedal from dead stops, even stops on steep inclines. The China girl clutch is so tiny and not up to that type of demand, but torque is the e-motors game, even the direct drive hub like I run, but the gear reduction e-motors are grunt monsters off the line. My modified CG motor has lots of power, but was limited by the clutch on dead stop starts. I also use the e-motor to get me up to twenty or twenty five mph during 2-cycle motor warmup. I just crack the ICE throttle a little and allow the e-motor to do 90% of the work till the gas engine warms up. Then there's the e-motor should I ever run out of gas or break a motor drive chain. With a front e-hub you don't need either the motor chain or the pedal chain...one reason to favor the front hub over a mid-motor on a hybrid build. On my hybrid I wanted more weight on the front wheel for daily riding of course when I pack extra battery weight on the back of the bike that advantage is somewhat negated.
I like 2 strokes, 4 cycles, e-bikes and electrics. After putting better than a thousand miles on the hybrid this Summer and Fall I'd say it rates well compared to the varied options. A four or five speed small motorcycle 4 stroke engine as a hybrid could be a sweet build or maybe just use a single speed Honda or clone industrial motor.
Rick C.
The e-motor idea was initially, like you said, just a glorified electric starter & it works great for that, but it has so much more utility once you get used to it being available. I can run super small rear sprockets and not have to slip the clutch or pedal from dead stops, even stops on steep inclines. The China girl clutch is so tiny and not up to that type of demand, but torque is the e-motors game, even the direct drive hub like I run, but the gear reduction e-motors are grunt monsters off the line. My modified CG motor has lots of power, but was limited by the clutch on dead stop starts. I also use the e-motor to get me up to twenty or twenty five mph during 2-cycle motor warmup. I just crack the ICE throttle a little and allow the e-motor to do 90% of the work till the gas engine warms up. Then there's the e-motor should I ever run out of gas or break a motor drive chain. With a front e-hub you don't need either the motor chain or the pedal chain...one reason to favor the front hub over a mid-motor on a hybrid build. On my hybrid I wanted more weight on the front wheel for daily riding of course when I pack extra battery weight on the back of the bike that advantage is somewhat negated.
I like 2 strokes, 4 cycles, e-bikes and electrics. After putting better than a thousand miles on the hybrid this Summer and Fall I'd say it rates well compared to the varied options. A four or five speed small motorcycle 4 stroke engine as a hybrid could be a sweet build or maybe just use a single speed Honda or clone industrial motor.
Rick C.
Thanks!
Only stuck it in there since you mentioned a washer motor. They are pretty cool but no barn burner. 5/8hp stock!
The hybrid uses Samsung 18650 3500 mah cells Cannonball, 36 v.16amp hr pack on the one mounted to the down tube, but the other packs are 20 amp. hr. I also use 48v. 20 amp hr. pack on another bike and think I incorrectly stated the voltage on the hybrid in an earlier post as 48v when it is actually a 36 v. hub. sorry for that. Same 3500 mah cells on each pack.I've a friend that made the 20 amp packs up as a favor to me (though not for free) each pack has BMS and they're relatively compact. My controllers are just the typical hub kit variety, which I fully intend to upgrade, but the kit units have performed adequately on the bikes running the 36v. e-hubs, one set @ 500 watt and the hybrid @ 750 watt. The 48 volt 1000 w. hub has reset several times under hard running on the ugly fat tire bike, so it gets the first controller upgrade...soon.
I started way to many projects over the last 8 months and I've got to revisit these to get 100% right. I feel the hybrid is complete, but it being my test mule change is always in it's future.
Rick C.
I started way to many projects over the last 8 months and I've got to revisit these to get 100% right. I feel the hybrid is complete, but it being my test mule change is always in it's future.
Rick C.
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You can run the common ebike motors/controllers up to 60v with no issues, the caps in the controllers are 63v. I have Been running for years a 24v geared motor system on 50v(3, 4s lipos) just have to monitor battery voltage for low cut. That said I will quit jacking this gentleman’s thread.
