That chain is hard and I usually grind both ends of the pin. I've never had any problems with the 41 master link which is
from the same company. A fella could use a good quality punch to punch the pins out after grinding the pin down.
Dennis
Bike builders that have machine tools/shops
- Thread starter Tom from Rubicon
- Start date
from the same company. A fella could use a good quality punch to punch the pins out after grinding the pin down.
Dennis
I mowed the foxtail down and will probably rake it into a pile and burn it in the garden. I will have to till it I hope
before it gets cold and try some winter wheat hoping the darn bids leave it alone.
Dennis
Curtis, I wouldn't even try using a chain breaker on the 41 chain until I have ground down the pins on the link.
Dennis
Even the first chain breaker will push the pin through after grinding it and that is the cheapo chain breaker made
for bicycle chain!
Dennis
Some mufflers I understand have weep hole, while many do not. I was concerned about carbon monoxide near the truck cabin, but it is actually about the center of the truck bed. Maybe use stainless steel weld and install a valve that opens when there is no exhaust flow..haha!
Ya! but this one is heavy will brake #35 ---#50 LOL, used it on regular bike chain also. C-H-A-I-N-A-P-A-R-T, Smith tool............Curt
https://www.fleetfarm.com/store/det...3dEb3s2FKrjpMMhl4CaZAMJNy1spbxLMaApe2EALw_wcB
Yeah Dennis, that wheat seed is a Dove magnet. Had a cousin whose husband was Italian that used to disk up an acre every fall, broadcast wheat on it and set up a picnic table and a big umbrella where he and his family would sit and sip their home made wine and ambush doves.
Tom
Mine was a little cheaper, as had it for a long time.........Curt
I got my mowing done today just in time for it to rain tonight, tomorrow and the weekend. 
I figured I had
better put a few miles on the bike and early this AM I mounted that IGS130 GPS computer on the bike and
tested it against a mechanical speedometer. The unit seemed to work ok and was fairly accurate compared
to the cheapy mechanical unit. There is another bicycle mount made for it that I want to get since the mount
that is sent with it I really don't trust it since it holds the unit on with two large O-rings. If anyone orders this
unit be sure to spend a few dollars more for the better mount which clamps to the handlebar. You can find
this unit for around $55 with the better mount. I got mine for $40 and I should have looked for the better deal.
Bight sunlight does not bother the screen on this unit and it is quick syncing up with the GPS. The biggest
problem I ran into was getting the thing programmed to measure Imperial instead of Metric. Like all Chinese
stuff, the instructions aren't the best. There are newer models out with too many features and even though
this model has been discontinued it still seems to be a good one. I managed to log about 43 miles on the
bike late this afternoon running around the countryside. I also got those pictures taken with the GoPro
camera. I've got a lot of work to do on this bike like electric start and charging system. The work will go into
next Summer from what I can see. Fall weather is coming so it's a good time to put some miles on the bikes!
Dennis
I figured I hadbetter put a few miles on the bike and early this AM I mounted that IGS130 GPS computer on the bike and
tested it against a mechanical speedometer. The unit seemed to work ok and was fairly accurate compared
to the cheapy mechanical unit. There is another bicycle mount made for it that I want to get since the mount
that is sent with it I really don't trust it since it holds the unit on with two large O-rings. If anyone orders this
unit be sure to spend a few dollars more for the better mount which clamps to the handlebar. You can find
this unit for around $55 with the better mount. I got mine for $40 and I should have looked for the better deal.
Bight sunlight does not bother the screen on this unit and it is quick syncing up with the GPS. The biggest
problem I ran into was getting the thing programmed to measure Imperial instead of Metric. Like all Chinese
stuff, the instructions aren't the best. There are newer models out with too many features and even though
this model has been discontinued it still seems to be a good one. I managed to log about 43 miles on the
bike late this afternoon running around the countryside. I also got those pictures taken with the GoPro
camera. I've got a lot of work to do on this bike like electric start and charging system. The work will go into
next Summer from what I can see. Fall weather is coming so it's a good time to put some miles on the bikes!
Dennis
Attachments
43 trouble free miles = solid build nice bike Dennis. I like your rear basket. Handy for quick trips to town.
Got in the shop after work Wednesday to split the fender strut mounting clamps using a .062" silting saw @ 325 RPM using some 60 yr. old 3in1 oil for lube. (Funny thing about 3in1 the can which I used is one my Father had for I don't how long. But it still does what is supposed to do one drop at a time. My electric fans get a annual drop on both bearings.) . Still have some mods to do to the clamps, the left hand one has to fit under the Sturmey Archer drum brake arm, and there is more than 3/8" clearance so a 3/8" web will do fine without compromising strength. I am hoping to start the mods Friday after work.
Tom
Got in the shop after work Wednesday to split the fender strut mounting clamps using a .062" silting saw @ 325 RPM using some 60 yr. old 3in1 oil for lube. (Funny thing about 3in1 the can which I used is one my Father had for I don't how long. But it still does what is supposed to do one drop at a time. My electric fans get a annual drop on both bearings.) . Still have some mods to do to the clamps, the left hand one has to fit under the Sturmey Archer drum brake arm, and there is more than 3/8" clearance so a 3/8" web will do fine without compromising strength. I am hoping to start the mods Friday after work.
Tom
[LONG REPLY!]
Tom, I like your setup you make me miss my Dad's shop with all of his metal working equipment and tools.
He made a lot of tools just to work on those Cummins diesel engines and trucks. He was from Germany
and the ole timers would rarely buy new tractors and equipment they just improvised and rebuilt equipment
to keep them running. There aren't many kids today that want to learn machining and I think it's because
they don't want to get their hands dirty. What's being lost is "Common-Sense" and logical problem solving.
I've seen that in college especially when it came to solving mechanical/electronic problems.
That rear basket is a pain when you have to get on the bike! The problem is, you have to tip the bike to make
sure you clear it when you swing your leg over it. The best solution I found was if you are in the city to pull up
lose to a curbing and get on the curb with the bike on the pavement and swing your leg over the basket that
works everytime! You just don't want to try to swing your leg over the top and hit the basket since the outcome
would throw you off balance and down you go! The basket needs to be 4" shorter in height or I need to be
6' 5". Tight bluejeans I would not try getting on it with and the ideal would be shorts but shorts and cutoffs are
a no no on bikes especially this one even with the double wrap of heat tape on the header pipe. That exhaust
is another thing I need to work on and the muffler is too restrictive for the engine. Even with a double wrap
of heat tape if you get your pants leg against the header wrap you will immediately no it! I've got about 270+
miles on the last mods and will be dumping the oil soon for fresh oil. The engine I estimate should be close
to full breakin since it's getting well over 800 miles. I pulled the GPS speedometer since I didn't want to lose
it and it's real easy for the bike to run past this speedometer at 60 Kmh into the mileage segments. The
speedometer is a bike speedometer and it isn't doesn't have a set of digits high enough to test. The one I
pulled off of the other bike is only temporary until I get the GPS speedometer mount. I do have the throttle
limited to how far I can rev the engine with a spring on the throttle cable. Once the spring is compressed the
engine can't go into red line. There's no speeding down hills I don't need to that problem. About 25-30 mph
cruise speed about 40 Kmh on this speedometer with the 32-tooth sprocket. Maybe a 28-tooth sprocket for
the country roads? I might have to keep an eye on the drive belt since there was slippage on the 20-tooth
under power acceleration. That kind of slippage on a toothed steel webbed belt would accelerate wear.
3-in-1 has been around a long time and it was used on sewing machines and about everything years ago
for lubrication. Keep us posted on what's happening...
Dennis
3 in 1 & Marvel Mystery Oil ...two things from the past that really work!
Rick C.
I've been using this product on the CVT drive unit and it works pretty good to keep the noise down on the unit.
The other day I had to cut a chain for the 32-tooth sprocket and I was using a special chain lube that was
expensive. I cleaned the 41 chain by soaking it in gasoline and dried it. That special lube seemed to attract dirt
and made the chain pretty greasy so instead of using the same stuff again, I used the same product I had for
the CVT which comes in a spray can. I made sure that the chain was coated good and hung it up to dry.
The chain took on a dark gray color and did not discolor my hands when I mounted the sprockets with it.
The lubricant is a graphite dry lubricant and sprays on like paint. The lubricant has been around for years
and used by the agricultural community. Get the stuff on your hands when it is wet and you can feel how
slippery it is and it is a pain to get off your skin. Lacquer thinner will not take it off of your hands just time
with repeated washing with soap will work. Not a good idea to use WD-40 or any oil based lubricant
including grease since these products attract dirt and abrasives.
Dennis
I found the stuff at BigR and I did look it up online the prices do vary from $7.29 to around $11.00.
Links:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-slide-graphite-based-coating-12-oz-aerosol
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Slide-Gra...1_11?keywords=EZ+SLIDE&qid=1569612301&sr=8-11https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Slide-Graphite-Coating-Oil-Based-Aerosol/dp/B01N0KN3JW/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=EZ+SLIDE&qid=1569612301&sr=8-11
The other day I had to cut a chain for the 32-tooth sprocket and I was using a special chain lube that was
expensive. I cleaned the 41 chain by soaking it in gasoline and dried it. That special lube seemed to attract dirt
and made the chain pretty greasy so instead of using the same stuff again, I used the same product I had for
the CVT which comes in a spray can. I made sure that the chain was coated good and hung it up to dry.
The chain took on a dark gray color and did not discolor my hands when I mounted the sprockets with it.
The lubricant is a graphite dry lubricant and sprays on like paint. The lubricant has been around for years
and used by the agricultural community. Get the stuff on your hands when it is wet and you can feel how
slippery it is and it is a pain to get off your skin. Lacquer thinner will not take it off of your hands just time
with repeated washing with soap will work. Not a good idea to use WD-40 or any oil based lubricant
including grease since these products attract dirt and abrasives.
Dennis
I found the stuff at BigR and I did look it up online the prices do vary from $7.29 to around $11.00.
Links:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-slide-graphite-based-coating-12-oz-aerosol
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Slide-Gra...1_11?keywords=EZ+SLIDE&qid=1569612301&sr=8-11https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Slide-Graphite-Coating-Oil-Based-Aerosol/dp/B01N0KN3JW/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=EZ+SLIDE&qid=1569612301&sr=8-11
Attachments
Back in the shop after work for almost two hours as the weather here would make Fast Eddy quite at home, dense drizzly mist. A little colder and would have been snow.
My original thought was that the fender struts would be clamped between the clam shell clamps. Nope, especially the rear strut as it has to not touch the rear steerer fork and as. I mentioned before on brake arm side the clamp needed to be thinned down for clearance. So the outside clamp section needed a land deep / broad enough to except the fender strut flange, so I started whittling on that too. If I don't goof off too much Saturday on things not motorbike related I should soon have photos of the completed assembly.
Tom
My original thought was that the fender struts would be clamped between the clam shell clamps. Nope, especially the rear strut as it has to not touch the rear steerer fork and as. I mentioned before on brake arm side the clamp needed to be thinned down for clearance. So the outside clamp section needed a land deep / broad enough to except the fender strut flange, so I started whittling on that too. If I don't goof off too much Saturday on things not motorbike related I should soon have photos of the completed assembly.
Tom
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Hey Rick, I have a gallon can of Marvel Mystery Oil, the mystery is what to use it for? I know I got to preserve my mothballed R80/7 BMW but I don't know if it is working.
Tom
Dennis,
Your quandary on chain lube is a common theme on this and the other forum whose name we will not speak
But I know they had a thread about a wax based lube.
This is it.
" Well I don't know where you got the idea that wax doesn't lubricate, when in fact it does, at high pressure (like between links, and high pressure areas are ideally the ones that need lubricant) wax will "melt" into its liquid form, which is more or less like grease lubricant at that point, and when the pressure drops off it turns right back into solid wax. Wax based lubes are actually a large part of the chain lube market.
I use a custom mix of paraffin and synthetic waxes used in jewelry craft for its extra stickiness at low Temps, paraffin is just to brittle alone at cold Temps. Anyway I also have Teflon powder mixed in but not graphite. No reason why other than I was satisfied with the mix as it was.
Ideally you would probably want to use wax regardless as the medium that transports the graphite since it flows well when heated. The idea is that hot wax will heat the metal chain as well and get the material all the way into the pins and rollers as it expands. Clear coat might not be sufficient at getting the graphite to penetrate into the places it's needed most (the outside of the chain is mostly protected from rust by oils, not so much in the terms of lubricating it against movement on a sprocket though it is also important to help extend the life of both against surface grinding)
Graphite in a custom mix would need to be small enough to actually get inside the internals, so if you want to experiment then make sure it's just really finely powdered.
blend of paraffin wax, pure PTFE, and molybdenum sulfide lubricants. This recipe produces, Smith says, provides the lowest consistently measureable frictional losses of everything he's tested."
Your quandary on chain lube is a common theme on this and the other forum whose name we will not speak
But I know they had a thread about a wax based lube.
This is it.
" Well I don't know where you got the idea that wax doesn't lubricate, when in fact it does, at high pressure (like between links, and high pressure areas are ideally the ones that need lubricant) wax will "melt" into its liquid form, which is more or less like grease lubricant at that point, and when the pressure drops off it turns right back into solid wax. Wax based lubes are actually a large part of the chain lube market.
I use a custom mix of paraffin and synthetic waxes used in jewelry craft for its extra stickiness at low Temps, paraffin is just to brittle alone at cold Temps. Anyway I also have Teflon powder mixed in but not graphite. No reason why other than I was satisfied with the mix as it was.
Ideally you would probably want to use wax regardless as the medium that transports the graphite since it flows well when heated. The idea is that hot wax will heat the metal chain as well and get the material all the way into the pins and rollers as it expands. Clear coat might not be sufficient at getting the graphite to penetrate into the places it's needed most (the outside of the chain is mostly protected from rust by oils, not so much in the terms of lubricating it against movement on a sprocket though it is also important to help extend the life of both against surface grinding)
Graphite in a custom mix would need to be small enough to actually get inside the internals, so if you want to experiment then make sure it's just really finely powdered.
blend of paraffin wax, pure PTFE, and molybdenum sulfide lubricants. This recipe produces, Smith says, provides the lowest consistently measureable frictional losses of everything he's tested."
I bought a $10 crockpot at Wally World and have my chains getting the same bath less the molybdenum which we know is a high pressure. Buying powdered Teflon was a fun engineering search. I will accept all thoughts willingly.
Tom
Tom
