Oh ok i get it now. And ya i think it was an old chevy. But ya im looking into a few kits as we speak. Though is a speedometer necessary?You can install rim or disc brakes if you want. You can keep the coaster brake. You will want something in addition to the coaster brake for safety.
I may be missing what you are asking. I'm getting sleepy.
I thought I'd share this giant photo of an automotive "rag joint". It's from a steering column on something. Probably an old Chevy. Anyway, the name rag joint comes from the fibers visible in layers at the edges. This is what the kits use, but they have nine holes, and often appear to have been sawed down the (almost) center to make two thinner doughnuts.
These joints are used on steering columns, pto shafts, some driveshafts (instead of a universal joint). I'm not sure exactly what original application got picked up to become the Chinese Motorized Bicycle Sprocket mount, LOL. But it is clever.
So this is my absolute first build and i literally have about the tightest budget you could have
- Thread starter Jaquiline
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Ah ok so about rigging up other brakes other than the coaster brake. How would that work? Because with this bike being a beach cruiser its got fenders on both wheels so what would be the most logical way to do this?
I'm going to punt on that. I think there are disc brake mounts that can be adapted to the rear, and maybe to the front, but you might have to change the front fork and change the character of the bike.
Any of the experienced guys on the forum can help with that question. I haven't done it.
Ok thank you for your help and honesty. Ill see about keeping updates on the bike as they happen because im going to have to save a bit of money up for this project
Well mostly just get something that will get me reliably from point a to point b. I was hoping that either of the bikes would do that if i bought the sprocket amd figured out a mount and a chain, but maybe it would work better to just go with a kit for my first build
I would strongly advise you to go with a kit for your first build. You will save time, frustration, and money.
If you have a dirt bike and four wheeler you are willing to cannibalize then why not sell those two things and buy a kit. Just a thought.
If you have a dirt bike and four wheeler you are willing to cannibalize then why not sell those two things and buy a kit. Just a thought.
Well they arent exactly mine but my landlord was willing to give me one or the other.
Here are eBay links, just so you have a better idea of the options.
This is a sprocket and CNC hub of the type commonly available on eBay.
These cost from $30-$60. You'd want a 1.5" probably to fit the rear hub of the Huffy - measure your hub OD.
Two other things to look for with these. A dished rather than flat sprocket is desirable because you can reverse it to get chainstay or tire clearance and the best chain line. And the recessed bolt heads are good for clearing your coaster brake arm.
And it's also good if the hole in the center of the sprocket is large enough to not interfere with the dust cover on your brake hub.
In the kit, you will get a sprocket and rag joint. And chain. And it will be compatible with the drive gear on the motor.
I've described this already.
With either sprocket style you may need to bend your coaster brake arm slightly in two places to sprocket bolts and or the chain.
And now here is a full kit that I know is pretty good (because it's the seller/one I bought), but there are some that are probably identical for $99 right now.
You get a lot with the kit, and there are tons of people and videos to help if you have trouble with any of this.
The sprockets all work with the #41 chain from TSC, which locally is $20 for a 10' length, enough to make 2 bikes. But to you, it's still $20.
You will need to be able to shorten chain as needed, either pressing pin out with a chain breaker tool, or my method, which is to grind the heads from the riveted pins, and then tap them out with a punch. So budget or plan for any special tools you need.
Hope this helps. I think everyone will agree the kit gives you a huge headstart on making your bike work.
Custom work can be rewarding, but it isn't always economical, and hardly ever the quickest path either.
Thank you and yaim still wondering how i could rig up some front brakes for it aswell
FWIW, there are a couple of folk here that will tell you and me that fenders are just waiting to act as a sudden brake and take us out.
I love the look of a long front fender on a cruiser. Mine doesn't have any yet.
For safety, some will advise you to ditch both fenders. If you keep them, be sure they can't get loose and ruin your day/year/life.
These engines will vibrate everything loose that they can. Following are useful techniques:
Properly used jam nuts (double nutting.)
Loctite thread sealer of right strength where appropriate.
Non-Chinese split/lock washers (The Chinese ones have no spring - they stay flat.)
Using all three gives you a fighting chance of keeping it all together.
I love the look of a long front fender on a cruiser. Mine doesn't have any yet.
For safety, some will advise you to ditch both fenders. If you keep them, be sure they can't get loose and ruin your day/year/life.
These engines will vibrate everything loose that they can. Following are useful techniques:
Properly used jam nuts (double nutting.)
Loctite thread sealer of right strength where appropriate.
Non-Chinese split/lock washers (The Chinese ones have no spring - they stay flat.)
Using all three gives you a fighting chance of keeping it all together.
Id like to honestly keep the fenders but how could i rig up front brakes? I mean i don't have acess to a cutting torch to free my rear hub should it over heat and weld itself together lol
I'm pretty sure what you want at called "long reach" calipers that will clear the fenders for rim brakes. It's very doable. If your crown is drilled for rim brakes, I think you need the measurement from the hole in the crown to your rim. That's the "reach" the caliper arms must make.
But I'm hoping someone else will help and tell you exactly what you need.
And I'm guessing the Huffy isn't set up for front disc mounting, so you'd probably have to change the fork, or modify yours welding or brazing to add the mounts.
But I'm hoping someone else will help and tell you exactly what you need.
And I'm guessing the Huffy isn't set up for front disc mounting, so you'd probably have to change the fork, or modify yours welding or brazing to add the mounts.
Where the front forks meet, between the forks and the steering tube.
Your fender may connect to the same hole you'd mount a brake caliper to.
Ok so id just have to see if i couldn't beg a friend of mine to do a bit of welding to weld on a nut on eithe fork to hold the calipers and then see about something to hold the cable, but how much slack would be recommended? I mean i will have to turn lol
Nah, you won't have to do welding for calipers. I'm speculating that you would if you wanted to add disk brakes without changing your forks.
I THINK you will be in great shape as long as the brake calipers are long enough to reach around your fenders and all the way to your rims. Your bike may require slightly special "long reach" calipers, that's all. And don't overthink the slack. I think the installation and adjustment will be easy for you to figure out once it's in hand.
I THINK you will be in great shape as long as the brake calipers are long enough to reach around your fenders and all the way to your rims. Your bike may require slightly special "long reach" calipers, that's all. And don't overthink the slack. I think the installation and adjustment will be easy for you to figure out once it's in hand.
