Dating an older lady
- Thread starter Tony01
- Start date
chainmaker
Well-Known Member
They can be on the drop out or under bottom bracket
donphantasmo
Member
Still trying to figure out what this has to do with dating an older lady?
I thought the thread was going into a different direction, lol. I guess it's Scwinns...
I thought the thread was going into a different direction, lol. I guess it's Scwinns...
I don't know sure sure with the info you gave.
First character is the month, second is the year.
This started in 1965. AA would be Jan 65, BA Feb 65, CA March 65, AB Jan 66, BB Feb 66, CB March 66, AD Jan 68, AE Jan 69, etc.
The 2 letters that are skipped is I and O because they too close to numerals, so May 73 would be EJ, June 73 FJ, etc. I know this system was used till 1980, not sure after that.
Assuming this code was still in use after 1980, E is May,W is 1985. The thing that is odd, serial number is on bottom bracket like a pre-1952, not on the head tube like a post-1969. Maybe location changed sometime after 1980 since serial numbers with 2 letters started in 1965.
Before 1965 was different and sometimes you need a date chart to find out.
If it was was May 1959, the serial # would be E9xxxxx, not EWxxxxxx.
It helps to date them by looking at the bikes characteristics, paint, style, model name, etc. And it is possible it is pre-1948 where seiail numbers have been lost.
Need more info or pics.
What does the frame's paint look like.
Trivia, the date code that started in 1965, Chrysler started using the same code for car parts in 1965.
First character is the month, second is the year.
This started in 1965. AA would be Jan 65, BA Feb 65, CA March 65, AB Jan 66, BB Feb 66, CB March 66, AD Jan 68, AE Jan 69, etc.
The 2 letters that are skipped is I and O because they too close to numerals, so May 73 would be EJ, June 73 FJ, etc. I know this system was used till 1980, not sure after that.
Assuming this code was still in use after 1980, E is May,W is 1985. The thing that is odd, serial number is on bottom bracket like a pre-1952, not on the head tube like a post-1969. Maybe location changed sometime after 1980 since serial numbers with 2 letters started in 1965.
Before 1965 was different and sometimes you need a date chart to find out.
If it was was May 1959, the serial # would be E9xxxxx, not EWxxxxxx.
It helps to date them by looking at the bikes characteristics, paint, style, model name, etc. And it is possible it is pre-1948 where seiail numbers have been lost.
Need more info or pics.
What does the frame's paint look like.
Trivia, the date code that started in 1965, Chrysler started using the same code for car parts in 1965.
Tony01
Well-Known Member
Frame was originally sapphire blue and had a long oval badge ~3"X1.25". Badge is missing. Some idiot painted it with house paint so cannot give more info. The welds are not like a 1980 frame I used to have, these are more direct tube to tube welds with regular fat bead fillings like on aluminum frames. The top tube SEEMS to be smaller than 1" but I could have just looked at it wrong. Pictures later!
Also the piece that connects the seatstays just behind the seat tube is an actual welded in tube with two tiny holes parallel to the seatstays. On my 1980 the frame had flowing tube connections and this piece was just some 1/8" flat steel bent and welded on.
This frame also doesn't have a kickstand built into it. I guess it was a bolt on unit but I don't know, I have frame only.
Also the piece that connects the seatstays just behind the seat tube is an actual welded in tube with two tiny holes parallel to the seatstays. On my 1980 the frame had flowing tube connections and this piece was just some 1/8" flat steel bent and welded on.
This frame also doesn't have a kickstand built into it. I guess it was a bolt on unit but I don't know, I have frame only.
Last edited:
Venice Motor Bikes
Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
That # doesn't jive at all!! Post a pic of the full frame.
1967 Schwinn would have the serial # on the left rear axle bracket
Second digit of the # would be C for 1967
Kick stand would be welded on
If it's any kind of Schwinn it will be pre-1948 or non-Chicago made post-1982
Try sanding down the repaint to the original paint too get an idea of the paint scheme. Appearance of a Schwinn helps ID model and the era it's from.
Second digit of the # would be C for 1967
Kick stand would be welded on
If it's any kind of Schwinn it will be pre-1948 or non-Chicago made post-1982
Try sanding down the repaint to the original paint too get an idea of the paint scheme. Appearance of a Schwinn helps ID model and the era it's from.
rustycase
Gutter Rider
Yep ! Agreed, with CurtisFox... Housepaint, applied to many things over the years, may even be considered a protective coating...
A few quick wipes with a light application of the various solvents will tell if the product can be removed with a rag, or even fine grit sandpaper, without damaging underlaying badges and such. Flush and wipe off well with water before walking away from efforts !
Best rc
It was made by Schwinn.
I have something similar. Boys bike, cantilever frame, welded on kick stand, skip tooth chain, head badge says ACE, also a 1948.
Schwinn, along with other bike mfgs, made bikes for atuomotive supply houses hardware store chains.
The OP'ers bike, is probably a Schwinn, a post-82 model made overseas.
The round front fork tubes is the giveaway. The frame is most likely better than the current Wallymart Schwinns since a number of overseas 1980s Schwinns were made in Taiwan, quality was much better than the current slop out of mainland China. At least he got it for the right price.
I say build it.
