Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike

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Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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Remember to warm up without any load, and then change the oil for a mineral motorcycle oil of good provenance. There are stories of engines dying on what they came with, and it might be that it's only a storage oil, not something it's meant to run on.
 
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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Thanks for the reminder Ludwig cause each day brings startup a little closer. Started fab on a steel stubby header for the test and installed the angled intake... while working on brackets and dyeing the natural tan leather grip wraps to match the saddle. Think it looks much better now. I was surprised that the angled intake wasn't made to angle the Mikuni carb to the outside only toward the center...good thing I had just enough space left to utilize the carb in that position and it probably looks better as a result? Post photos later. Rick C.
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Completed the wiring harness today, then took stock of things that bothered me but I put off until this morning...fixing a few, others will wait their turn.

An important safety factor was addressed that being the drive off bike stand, which I prefer to use for all my motorized bicycle builds. I use the same brand (never know what brand name it's sold under just go to the same vendor & order) and am quite pleased with the quality. It is very durable & for normal weight moto- bikes it's a bolt on and forget. Target weight for my build has been 110 lbs. & may possibly be a bit over that right now. I bolted the stand to a quarter inch thick steel base plate that also holds the bottom bracket in place and then welded it as well. It's not going anywhere! The safety issue is that a solid bump from the rear will "unlock" the stand as the bike moves forward. Couple of inches is all it takes and boom it's down. It can and does happen to lightweights as well, but greater chance of hurting a bystander, or an Old Guy with more weight involved. Simple fix was to drill a well placed 1/4" hole in the stand's frame (clutch side of bike) while the bike is up on the stand & insert a small bolt. This hole goes through both the stand fram & the rotating plate. This simply jams the interior rotating plate (to which the legs are attached) to the stationary stand frame. Both these plates are robust & can with stand the jamming forces of a hardened bolt or pin. The legs simply cannot fold back into the riding position while the bolt is in place. If you're happy digging a bolt out out of your pocket each time you use the stand, problem solved. I am opting for a spring loaded detent bolt attached to the stand's frame which can be swiveled to the locking position each time even with your eyes closed and gloves on. Drill 3 holes total, one is used to lock the swivel while riding. Spring holds the swivel plate secure during your ride and prevents the mech from rattles. A variation should work on most brands of center drive offs currently available.

Kick start lever was finally coaxed into really tightening up & preventing vibration from that source, a two flat washer solution was all it took. Neither of these problem's solutions required much thought, time or money...just needed to be done.

Lot of things waiting for multiple deliveries to be made...living in a small town has many advantages but parts selection & in stock is not usually among them. Rick C.
 

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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Bummer & no sabe photo-bucket so no help here Butch.

Decided to work on headlights today. Been testing Cree led's for last 6 months & am really well satisfied, but they don't look like much on a classic style bike (my opinion) at least they're small & not too obvious to a casual perusal.

I've done some work on a solid copper light housing for the Cree 6,000 lumen & like what I've done so far, but it's heavy as heck & needs an extremely solid mounting bracket...that is also attractive. Still thinking on that one.

I also have three really good looking classic teardrop light housings, the one with the "eyebrow" shade. Very common item to moto bike guys about $50. but the general public love the look and so do I. Problem is a match in a tornado provides more light for longer time period, things eat batteries & the switches are junk. So today I gutted one and installed a Cree 2500 lumen in it. It's about a third the weight of the copper housing. I was able to reuse the lens & reflector while trashing the beam selector switch, battery holder and wiring. Careful enlargement of the central bulb hole in the reflector & drilling a 7/8" hole in the rear were the two significant housing mods. I built a spring loaded push switch to activate the light. Only mod to the Cree was removing the handlebar mount.

Added an Indian silver concho for trim as well. Next will be the fabricating a sturdy mount cause the factory ones are junk & prone to cracking. I really like the basic look of the housing & enjoyed tearing crap out of the rest of it! Got two more of these to modify as well. Oh yeah the bolt/push button will be replaced with something more appropriate, but it really works well! Rick C.
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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So I finally mounted the drive side engine cover & fabricated a small bracket to mount the headlight. Installed it on the springer bolts...see if it works out, used quarter inch steel plate should be solid, held on by acorn nuts. Have to decide on which head light housing to use, but definitely going with the Cree led's 6,000 lumen version, since they have performed so well on my bikes for the past 6 months.
Still waiting on a couple of brass hardware parts for the fuel system, odds and ends & motor oil. The motor only contained maybe a half cup of lubricant for shipping & I'll be draining that before servicing with the motorcycle oil for sure.
I'm seriously considering using black pipe 1-1/4" to 1" 90 degree reduction coupler as the basis for the exhaust header & thread the 1" copper tubing into that. I can then use silver solder on the muffler connections. The copper I'm using is quite heavy which leads me in the direction of a short system with heavy duty hangers. The 90 degree black pipe is a solid base & should flow ok though not as well as it would with a more gentle bend. I really don't have a lot of room to clear the frame & this should flow better & look a heck of a lot better than a pie cut bend. Rick C.
 

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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Hi Curtis & thanks...I'd like to think she's almost complete but quite a bit left to do. I keep getting side tracked making changes to what's already been done. Case in point drive sprocket cluster was 3/16" too wide for perfect chain line alignment so I built a new one this morning. I'm now happy. I also spent time on the headlight bracket and it is one heavy duty piece made of 1/4" steel plate. The classic teardrop shape looks pretty good mounted on top of the dual springs.

Butch I like the size of the head lamp,about 4.5" in diameter but I'm sure others would prefer a larger or perhaps an even smaller shell. I think this one is in pretty good proportion with the size of the forks & the led's put out a lot of light. I'll post some photos of the lamp mounted and the finished bracket.

Fuel fittings came in this afternoon so I'm beginning to run out of excuses for not firing up the motor. I'll be out of town for a few days & will give it a try next week. Have a great weekend! Rick C.
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Adjusting 3 chains using only full links, offset half links and rear axle positioning isn't the way I plan to spend my time. Neither do I want to move the motor and the bottom bracket is fixed. So the plan was to run two adjusters on the drive side. The first is complete for the secondary chain. Since the lower frame runs uphill to the dropouts a rectangular bracket (like the one I built for the coaster arm) wouldn't do. Running a 10 tooth sprocket as the idler. I'll clean up the sloppy welds later...shop power was fluctuating so much that running a smooth bead was impossible, should have waited for another time when the power was stable.

I'll run a nylon roller for the primary tension. Fuel flow now possible. Rick C.
 

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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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I'm now waiting on the copper tube & 90 degree steel reduction elbow to hook up my exhaust header which will be a short & straight run, down & ending just in front & below the engine. Total length of the whole system about 16" and constructed of 1" tube feeding into a 2" x 8" copper muffler (fiber glass loosely packed) 1" copper will run be a continuous run through the length of the muffler tube and perforated with 1/4" holes. The looser the fiberglass pack the quieter yet mellower the final exhaust note. The copper tube will thread into the NPT threaded elbow for a secure mechanical connection. The steel motor connection plate will be welded to the 1 1/4" side of the 90 degree elbow & a short length of steel pipe will be welded inside the elbow flange allowing the short pipe to properly seat against the copper exhaust gasket for a secure seal.

I'll use the front motor mount clamp sets to install 2 clamps with which to secure the exhaust system. I know it's a lot of support for such a tiny muffler but the copper will harden over time due to heating and cooling...not a bad thing if the system isn't allowed to move, but prone to cracking if it does.

Copper has been successfully used for exhausts in many hot rod and custom motorcycle applications and not only looks great but works well when properly designed & installed. An added bonus is a very mellow exhaust tone that is unique from that of steel.

I know a steel system is great and a lot cheaper and easier to fabricate and with fewer quirks, but it's what I wanted on the particular build. Same as with the ability to pedal a frame which was originally designed as a scooter & no pedal capabilities (which was a far more difficult set of problems to overcome) it's what I wanted.

I'll get a bit more done Thursday. Rick C.
 

indian22

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You are the innovative copper man SB & really got me thinking about using "poor man's gold" several months back. I've always liked metals and have worked with them most of my adult life. I confess that bold colors are not what I gravitate to. My new daughter in law asked me what my favorite color was & I quickly responded "grey or silver grey" My son put her up to asking me what he already knew to be true. She was aghast at my answer.

I like colors but prefer to keep it simple with paint mainly used to protect my metal, especially steel, from oxidation. Bronze, titanium, stainless, brass, silver, gold and copper 99% of the time I leave unpainted, with Aluminum unpainted perhaps 85%. Chrome plating & metallic powder coating are also utilized a good bit. I paint as seldom as possible and when I do it's for metal protection and contrast not color as "bling". I'm odd; I realize, even so I love raw metal.

Years ago I worked with copper a good deal, over the years I kinda ignored it and used a lot of brass and bronze & huge amounts of aluminum. Some hand worked but mostly machined. Sometimes I would hammer finish a small plate of copper, polished others and sometimes used both effects together on one piece. Honestly haven't got a handle on what the copper finish will be on the "Copper Gator" but a good amount of the stuff will be used along with some brass, chrome, aluminum and even paint on various steel/aluminum sections. I don't think I'll use chemical to accelerate patina on the metals, but that's a possibility. It will be different cause I just really like raw metal. Rick C.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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Thought you might find this of interest. You may remember the handlebars on the "Kindalikeawhizzer" build which were part stock and part copper. That led me to wondering about an all copper set of handlebars for the 1934 Elgin "Velocipede". The pieces haven't been soldered yet as it is -0 outside and I don't want to do the soldering indoors and possibly screw up the apartment floor. The soldering can wait until spring thaw in early May. I used the thicker walled rigid copper water pipe and fittings and think it will be strong enough, especially with the cross piece in place. Front fork is from a Tomos moped. Other bits of copper on the bike are the cylindrical gas tank made by Tinsmith, the headlight I made from a Portuguese cooking pot, tail lights and fittings for a removable sidecar made from a baby buggy. I'm thinking about a copper disc to bolt on to the flywheel cover and once the front fender is fitted I have a copper running light with brass & stained glass dragon fly wings soldered to the copper "bug" body. Copper is good. I'm very much looking forward to seeing the copper and other bits of metallic goodies come together on your build, Rick. Keep those photos coming...
SB
 

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langolier

Member
Jul 6, 2015
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Love that look Silverbear (Even though you stole my "copper" look idea for my next build .... He he). That copper with the black frame and cream tires are a spot on match. I'm really loving the "Simplex" too indian22.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
langolier,
Thanks for the kind words. The copper handlebars have been like that since August so I must be psychic (or psychotic) to have taken your idea. Maybe it was floating around in the ethers and we both picked up on it. Look forward to seeing your version. Copper is so appealing...
SB