Hey guys and gals got the beach cruiser running the other day. I would not start for the life of me. I tried and tried and finally found out the clutch was just enough off to not draw in fuel. So get her running and let me say. WHAT A BLAST LOVE IT GOES JUST FAST ENOUGH FOR THIS OLD MAN NOW!!! It had been 15 years since I rode a bike smile ear to ear love it. putting the chain thing on that goes under the case so it won't bind. and a spring loaded tensioner too. Can you tell me how do you keep the tank in one place? I don't want to crank down on the bolts I think they will rip right out of the tank. So please if any other ways of mounting it would be very help full. And is there any people that ride together in southern California? I am in Riverside would like to ride with some other people. Thanks and one word WOW
Oh! Okay.
Maybe I'm forgetting that some of this stuff is not all that obvious to folks who are unfamiliar.
That little bracket I made and mounted is an axle/chain adjuster and tensioner. It helps to keep that axle exactly where you want it in those dropouts.
One of the classic headaches with these bikes is the axles slipping a bit forward in the dropouts. And it can be a real pain. Your chain will pop off. Repeatedly, often enough. (My blood boils just thinking about it)
This axle movement often happens even when you're merely tightening it down. You've got your arm wrapped around the back end. You're holding the wheel exactly where you want it. You tighten the axle nut. And you feel that stupid thing move. You curse. You loosen the axle nut. And then you repeat the process. Several times over. Then there comes a time when you get that thing to stay almost where you wanted it. And you accept that, hoping it'll be good enough. And then a few days later you repeat the whole process.
With that bracket on there, you simply adjust chain tension using that 1/4 20 bolt that holds the two halves together and you tighten the axle nut. And your axle ain't goin' nowhere.
Maybe I'm forgetting that some of this stuff is not all that obvious to folks who are unfamiliar.
That little bracket I made and mounted is an axle/chain adjuster and tensioner. It helps to keep that axle exactly where you want it in those dropouts.
One of the classic headaches with these bikes is the axles slipping a bit forward in the dropouts. And it can be a real pain. Your chain will pop off. Repeatedly, often enough. (My blood boils just thinking about it)
This axle movement often happens even when you're merely tightening it down. You've got your arm wrapped around the back end. You're holding the wheel exactly where you want it. You tighten the axle nut. And you feel that stupid thing move. You curse. You loosen the axle nut. And then you repeat the process. Several times over. Then there comes a time when you get that thing to stay almost where you wanted it. And you accept that, hoping it'll be good enough. And then a few days later you repeat the whole process.
With that bracket on there, you simply adjust chain tension using that 1/4 20 bolt that holds the two halves together and you tighten the axle nut. And your axle ain't goin' nowhere.
Okay I see now but my rear wheel just drops in the slots on the frame and that's it. I have gears on my bike maybe that why there is no adjustment? do any of you guys have trouble with the chain bind under the front drive gear under the case. I was told that is a must fix you can buy a small metal piece that goes up above the gear to keep that from happing.
Here a picture of my project a Nexus 3 speed with shift kit currently in a reassembly stage. This bicycle is difficult but not impossible to work with.
I'd expected to get it completed without much effort that was a wish upon a falling star and wishing them all out of the night sky upon the first wish would follow. At that the three speed I'm attempting to build must be locked out of free wheeling to make it easy to push start this bicycle system. I've yet to remove the rear wheel and disassemble the brake hub it looks as if it can be modified the lock the motion by placement of a bolt through the housing of this hub. If so this hub can be shifted up or down and locked into gear as well change gear in less than an hour. I've needs to use the method and the hub currently and hope it works as well hope the hub is strong enough to endure the torque of the 66 cc. The weak link is likely the link I will attempt to lock out with a bolt installed in the correct location. If this the speed is likely to fail I think this is the first place with a setup like the one I've got. The engine/ shift kit mounting bracket must be altered to fit I will employ threaded stock
5''-6'' long to adjust the tension on the output side or left side facing front seated on the bike. The tension on the right will be adjusted by the threaded rod if there is space to install it. If not I'll likely have to cut a steel brace in place. I'm disappointed with the idea the conversion kit securing the bottom bracket is sliding although well fastened. This attempt is to make the system work without question and prove it's the better of all options. I might be one of the best but I've a lot of work to do. If anyone has attempted this type of system any advice I'd appreciate it.
I'd expected to get it completed without much effort that was a wish upon a falling star and wishing them all out of the night sky upon the first wish would follow. At that the three speed I'm attempting to build must be locked out of free wheeling to make it easy to push start this bicycle system. I've yet to remove the rear wheel and disassemble the brake hub it looks as if it can be modified the lock the motion by placement of a bolt through the housing of this hub. If so this hub can be shifted up or down and locked into gear as well change gear in less than an hour. I've needs to use the method and the hub currently and hope it works as well hope the hub is strong enough to endure the torque of the 66 cc. The weak link is likely the link I will attempt to lock out with a bolt installed in the correct location. If this the speed is likely to fail I think this is the first place with a setup like the one I've got. The engine/ shift kit mounting bracket must be altered to fit I will employ threaded stock
5''-6'' long to adjust the tension on the output side or left side facing front seated on the bike. The tension on the right will be adjusted by the threaded rod if there is space to install it. If not I'll likely have to cut a steel brace in place. I'm disappointed with the idea the conversion kit securing the bottom bracket is sliding although well fastened. This attempt is to make the system work without question and prove it's the better of all options. I might be one of the best but I've a lot of work to do. If anyone has attempted this type of system any advice I'd appreciate it.
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Well along the long winded story way to asking advice on a Nexus 3 speed project is this. I've secluded the bearing to prompt it to oil or grease to this point these bearing are sealed but the bearing can be accessed by tapping a hole into the bottom bracket for oil or continue with a grease fitting on the crank arm for some entertainment.
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Was an example, I'd continue you have little else to do with the time passing you'll have a crank peddle arm in a vise with a oil or grease access to the bearing in the shift kit which is likely the 1st correct step out of the box before the next on a long list from Sick Bike Parts now for all whom have not followed the first step all the so called professionals can explain why they skipped this and went on.
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Mine is the old stand by 5 speed with the shifting rail thing. So I wish you the best and that is why I said my rear wheel just drops in the cut out in the frame no adjustment. So the spring loaded chain thing for the motor is a must for me. Thanks for you time
Hello I hope every one got what they wanted and they had a nice x-mas? If you are married and or single and have older kids forget it. Its a wallet and socks and maybe a treat from you girlfriend or wife??? Any way jump on the bike to take a spin and the chain kept popping off well look at the rag joint thing and it is wobbling. So I check it and some of the bolts were loose so I saw a bike with one of these and the guy said put it on and not one problem after that. What do you guys think of this set up and it will fit my hub.? Thanks http://www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit-parts/drivetrain/manic-mechanic-sprocket-adapter-assembly.html
Yes. As bobbyT said, you must match your hub to the adapter. I'm not experienced with this since I've always found the rag joint to be adequate when installed properly. So I've never given more than a passing thought to a hub adapter. I'm going to guess that the adapters come in different sizes. If you happen to have some uncommon hub in a non-standard size, then maybe a hub adapter will be more trouble than it's worth. But it's more likely that you can have one that's a-okay. Just be sure to order the right size.
It sounds as though your frame has what are called 'vertical dropouts'. I believe this is the mark of a fairly high quality frame. The manufacturer was so confident of the frame's strength that they felt the could afford to not build in some adjustment room for frame/wheel alignment. They're confident that that frame will stay absolutely straight. One the other hand, I've had vertical dropout bikes that were not perfectly straight. One of them was brand new. The tire only barely cleared the chainstay. If there are other reasons that bike manufacturers build vertical dropout bikes over horizontal types, then I don't know what those reasons might be.
And, yes, you do want to fix the issue with your engine chain binding under that drive sprocket cover. It's pretty urgent, in fact. A good chain tensioner is the place to start since you won't be able to adjust chain tension using your axle.
Improper chain tension might well be the single biggest cause of trouble for the MB newbie. And it can cause trouble for veterans too, of course. Except veterans have usually had enough trouble with that and they make darn sure that that chain is tight and that it's not going to move.
It sounds as though your frame has what are called 'vertical dropouts'. I believe this is the mark of a fairly high quality frame. The manufacturer was so confident of the frame's strength that they felt the could afford to not build in some adjustment room for frame/wheel alignment. They're confident that that frame will stay absolutely straight. One the other hand, I've had vertical dropout bikes that were not perfectly straight. One of them was brand new. The tire only barely cleared the chainstay. If there are other reasons that bike manufacturers build vertical dropout bikes over horizontal types, then I don't know what those reasons might be.
And, yes, you do want to fix the issue with your engine chain binding under that drive sprocket cover. It's pretty urgent, in fact. A good chain tensioner is the place to start since you won't be able to adjust chain tension using your axle.
Improper chain tension might well be the single biggest cause of trouble for the MB newbie. And it can cause trouble for veterans too, of course. Except veterans have usually had enough trouble with that and they make darn sure that that chain is tight and that it's not going to move.
Just started skimming through the thread and saw this, relates to my build somewhat.
I am a first time builder who purchased a goofy bike to motorize. there's a thread for it if you want to tell me what I'm doing wrong (please do, thats why I'm posting pictures)
During my time researching for this build (and lurking here) I learned a lot of pros and cons for for different ways of attaching the drive sprocket. and as far as I can tell the best methods bar none is a custom wheel hub built for a sprocket on both sides (you know, if you have sever thousand dollars or a high tech machine shop.
I had maybe 150 dollars I could spend on this above the cost of the kit itself and the bike. and for my bike specifically there was a short list of undeniable facts: replacing the rear wheel is expensive because it's an oddball size, even people skilled in this craft had troubles mounting rag-joints on this bike, and for being rare and expensive to replace the rear wheel is not super-high quality.
Watching youtube videos about this I decided to myself that aligning a rag-joint on this frame had the potential to be a massive hassle. it's obviously a skill that one develops over time and I set my learning curve too high.
not to mention the thin, steeply angled spokes. or the overly wide but not particularly thick hub.
I started to get worried when I saw one hub adapter kit that was built only for this bike that involved drilling nine holes through the hub.
Then I saw a clam-shell adapter.
Then I bought a caliper to measure my axle.
Then I bought a clam-shell adapter.
I am not trying to say that my build needed the thing to work.
I'm saying I needed the thing to work my build.
As a first timer, knowing that my drive sprocket was just way overbuilt and basically impossible to mess up installing, gave me a good backing of confidence for the whole project. the thing was pretty expensive, but it is a precision machine part built to exact specification for that size axle.
(Sorry about this giant post. Tried to drop in two cents, accidental coin-avalanche)
thanks for the info I am going to go with that same setup on mine too. Just the best place to buy it for the price is out of stock on the size I need. Then I noticed that you only get the hub part you have to buy the sprocket . So any way when it comes in I hope in the next couple of days I can order it and have it in a couple of days. Seems like the best replacement for the rag joint as I have the weak spokes too.
Anybody still use a stick welder? instead of using 6013 rod try 7014 rod its about the same but it is more of a contact rod.Can turn up the heat range some and hold it to the metal and go right along.Much better weld, the metal should be clean though............Curt
Gotta agree on the 7014 rods,they're great for beginners but will also do really good welds. Also for someone who doesn't weld very often getting an inverter type welder is a lot easier to get up and welding with since they eliminate the difficulty in striking an arc.
Tig is still my favorite method but if I do need to stick weld, I'll use the fig power supply since its an inverter and it really helps when I'm out of practice.
I also really like the performance of the inverter combined with a 6011 rod since the arc strike is easy and the 6011 leaves behind very little Slag. The 7014 does leave more slay behind but the welds underneith are excellent
Tig is still my favorite method but if I do need to stick weld, I'll use the fig power supply since its an inverter and it really helps when I'm out of practice.
I also really like the performance of the inverter combined with a 6011 rod since the arc strike is easy and the 6011 leaves behind very little Slag. The 7014 does leave more slay behind but the welds underneith are excellent
Less RPM is generally better for drilling metal, especially steel. This is an easy one to forget as it seems a little counter-intuitive. If you have an average drill press with the belts that move around to change speeds just put it on the slowest speed when drilling steel for bits around 3/8's and larger. For small bits maybe the next speed up.
There is a formula for this but with the average drill press with preset RPM ranges no need to bother.
There is a formula for this but with the average drill press with preset RPM ranges no need to bother.
Got this video should exsplane some on stick welding.Lots of good metal tech here ............Curt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6yunnJUUK4&feature=em-subs_digest
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6yunnJUUK4&feature=em-subs_digest
I cuncur... All of Jody's videos are excellent for both beginner and more advanced weldars. I even bought a few of those TIG fingers he sells and they make it much easier to get in close to the heat without even feeling the slightest discomfort, they feel a little bulky at first, but let you rest your hand right on the still orange hot bead ya just welded when there's no other way to get in there...
i would also highly recommend anyone learning to weld or wanting to learn to read the articles and watch the videos off his main site... It taught me a lot when I bought my TIG welder a few years back.